UKC

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One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

7m. Start 1m left of Dosa at the lowest foot wide ledge and climb 2 z shaped blocks to smears to get onto the slab proper. The short eliminate slab above is taken direct to a quarter of a hold at the break before standing up at the top out block. Uses holds independent of Pah and Dosa though easily escapable. Avoid these routes for the grade. Going to the Arete instead of the break lowers the grade and is trad 5c/6a. Some possible snappy holds. Inspection advised and abseil from tree by trailing a rope/ prior rope setup to descend. The direct grade is English technical 6a. And font 6a+.

Paul Tucker 15/Sep/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
RickBr 30 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cool slabby highball. I did break off a nice hold, but definitely still possible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cool slabby highball. I did break off a nice hold, but definitely still possible.

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
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