Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Mark Pretty 10/Sep/2021.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mick Lovatt | 10 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Six glue on holds, imported from elsewhere in the quarry certainly detract from the 3* status of this route. That, along with the plethora of unsightly rotting tat tied directly through the bolt hangers don’t make this a route to recommend! One of the glue-ons actually came off as I pulled on it, (5 more to go). Minus the one glue-on hold it ain’t 7b+ minus all 6 it may not be a route! ☹️ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Six glue on holds, imported from elsewhere in the quarry certainly detract from the 3* status of this route. That, along with the plethora of unsightly rotting tat tied directly through the bolt hangers don’t make this a route to recommend! One of the glue-ons actually came off as I pulled on it, (5 more to go). Minus the one glue-on hold it ain’t 7b+ minus all 6 it may not be a route! ☹️ |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Whale Shark
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])