UKC

300m, 8 pitches. Highest waterfall in Central Asia, and a must do tick if in the Naryn region. The surprising lack of popularity can be blamed on the fall only being 'discovered' around 7 years ago.
From the base of the route, depending on conditions, the first 100m can be easily soloed. This leads to the base of the first steeper section of ice, 50-70 degrees, this section can be led in 2-3 pitches, avoiding the giant death hole at the top which may be frozen later in the season. Depending on the condition of the death hole, the next 60m 45 degree pitch can be confidently soloed or led, this area accumulates a lot of snow. This leads to the base of the second large section of steep ice, once again requiring 2/3 pitches, leading to the shallow canyon at the summit of the waterfall. From here you can either continue up the stream, or scramble out of the gorge onto the plateau summit.
The only obvious decent is by abseil on threads, some rock gear may also be useful to protect anchors. It may be possible to find a walk-off/scrabble decent to the valley's true left, however this route may be quite dangerous.

Alex Hyde and Reuben James 06/Dec/2021.

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