Access Banned
Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at Moorhill Quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.
15m.
Start 3m left of Ride Lonesome - an excellent crimpy boulder (protected by 2 pads) gains a series of flat edges (possible sky hooks) that lead up and left to a clean cut V-groove capped by a roof (medium wire in groove and sling around large (unstable?) flake on Goergia Peach). Step up delicately into the groove and gain a tenuous bridged position below the roof (purple camalot - not great). Reach right to a thin horizontal break and with great difficulty, place lots of small gear (small and micro wires, micro cams). Make a wild move right to gain a stepped arete and ledge (good rest, possible belay!!). Return to the hanging groove and climb this boldly and steeply on sloping crimps to another thin horizontal break. Finish direct via ledges on Georgia Peach. An action packed pitch! Headpoint first ascent.
K. Kilroy, C. Martin 10/Feb/2022.
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Route of Interest
Idlewild
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Slieve Bearnagh)