[Damilano - V 5 M; AC - ED2] A superb route that had become a classic of its type. It finishes at the Col des Pelerins (3275m) between the Pointe des Pelerins and the Aiguille des Pelerins. The route follows a rightward-leaning line of ramps and ice-filled corners. Climb the wall to the right of the gully (possible serac fall). Climb directly up a short wall (5c, delicate mixed, snow-plastered rock) and further rock (50m) to snow slopes. Follow these up right (100m) to the first step. Climb a series of gullies (110m, 75º, to reach main snow field. Trend rightward across this to the base to a line of chimneys and corners (60m). Climb these in SEVEN 60m pitches to the Col des Pelerins. P1 - up; P2 - up, then trend left 10m; P3 - up, bolt, then crux mixed step right and up; P4 - up, then exit R onto small snowfield; P5 - up snowfield, then steep mixed chimney; P6 - shorter pitch, continue up chimney then step R; P7 - thin groove to obvious roof, then pendulum L, up. Abseil down route or descend SW face.

Rebuffat & Terray 10/Aug/1944; Rab Carrington & Al Rouse as an ice route 7-8 Feb 1975

Ticklists: Alpine Grande Courses.

machars 20/Mar AltLd dnf
with Pat
stanleynkk 17/May/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 17/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 10/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
wi11 02/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore, Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 23/Oct/15 AltLd
alexm198 23/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Think Lindsay Griffin was on crack when he claimed this was ED2. In good icy nick at the moment, so climbing is straightforward but rather bold. An easily missed rightwards traverse on P4 resulted in some scary off-route escapades. Freed the pendulum.

James S 23/Oct/14 AltLd dnf

Lots of powder on approach and on the climb slowed us down a lot, coupled with a bit of a casual start from the bivvy at the mid-station ended in us bailing at about halfway. A pity as it is a beautiful route in great setting. Got back to the valley at half 8 for much needed pizza!

with geoff, dan
Hidden 12/Feb/14 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 20/Oct/13 2nd dnf


with Tom Grant
andyinglis 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Great powder descent, route was pretty good too, with tricky climbing (scottish VI,6) in the last few pitches.

Alasdair Fulton 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Stayed in the winter room of the Plan De L'Aiguille Refuge, up and down to Chamonix in 10 hours. Great conditions, tonnes of névé (except on the hard bits) and a great route. Decided to climb the thin ice goulotte left of the pendulum pitch as it looked inviting. Even got some powder turns on the descent.

Martin Cooper 09/Mar/13 AltLd

Excellent. Moved together a lot using inverted tiblocs.

with Fredrik Aspo
The old James turnbull ?/Mar/13 AltLd

amazing route

with rich howells, aiden
John Carney 25/Nov/12 -

Excellent conditions, with abundant and bomber neve which allowed us to move together for long sections and top out in 5:05. That said, we managed to go left after P3 for 2 pitches, then rappelled back onto the route, which we rejoined via 1P of interesting mixed. A nice variant all things considered! The final pitch was made easier by the fact that the normally bald slab which presents the famous leftward traverse, had some ice on it. We rappelled the entirety of the route. Care on the rappels as some anchors need to be reinforced especially the penultimate one.

with Adam George
David Horwood 30/Oct/12 -
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
stuart34 10/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Not sure how far we climbed up but got stuck well into the top pitches, maybe up to the pendulum? Super dry and decided to back off from that point. Ab'd route

with John Healy
Hidden 14/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle ?/Oct/10 AltLd
with gav
Hidden 29/Mar/07 AltLd β
frost ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths ?/Mar/07 -

Bailed before the col. Blown out by heavy spindrift. simon hurt ankle / knee in fall. Grand day out.

with Simon Frost
Yyonnx 12/Feb/06 AltLd dnf

Serac fall right in front of us at beginning of climb put us off...probably off the route for good.

Hidden ?/Oct/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd
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High ED3
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High ED2
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High ED1
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