Rockfax Description
IV, 850m, 6 - 8 hours. A popular, long route which takes a great line onto a great summit. A good choice for those wanting to test themselves on a long route without committing to one of the routes on the north face.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here (don't try to go directly to the Lagarde, there is a large crevasse field barring it).
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a short snow slope to an 80 degree ice pitch.
2) Lower angled ice leads to a belay on the right below another steep section.
3) Climb the 85 degree ice on the left and then 100m of 60 degree snow to reach the Lagarde Couloir proper.
4) Follow the couloir for 300m of 50 degree snow. For the final 100m to the top it steepens to around 65 degrees and tackles mixed ground to reach the final snow ridge on the Tournier Spur. Follow this to the summit of Les Droites.
Descent - The Lagarde Couloir Direct can normally be abseiled on a combination of fixed anchors and Abalakov threads. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 4+

Walter Cecchinel & Claude Jager

Steve Wakeford 10/Apr/14 Solo dnf

Took mixed start. Got to just above 2nd crux of direct route and then bailed -

Hidden 01/Apr/14 AltLd
Ally Baba ?/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben tibbetts
basvdploeg ??/2011 -
9 users have this on their wishlist
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1