Rockfax Description
IV, 850m, 6 - 8 hours. A popular, long route which takes a great line onto a great summit. A good choice for those wanting to test themselves on a long route without committing to one of the routes on the north face.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here (don't try to go directly to the Lagarde, there is a large crevasse field barring it).
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a short snow slope to an 80 degree ice pitch.
2) Lower angled ice leads to a belay on the right below another steep section.
3) Climb the 85 degree ice on the left and then 100m of 60 degree snow to reach the Lagarde Couloir proper.
4) Follow the couloir for 300m of 50 degree snow. For the final 100m to the top it steepens to around 65 degrees and tackles mixed ground to reach the final snow ridge on the Tournier Spur. Follow this to the summit of Les Droites.
Descent - The Lagarde Couloir Direct can normally be abseiled on a combination of fixed anchors and Abalakov threads. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 4+

Walter Cecchinel & Claude Jager

Ticklists: Alpine Grande Courses.

Little AndyH 12/Apr/17 AltLd dnf
with joe.91
piken 12/Apr/17 AltLd

Ski from Grands Montets to Argentiere hut in the afternoon. Slept in hut. Crossed glacier on skis. Climbed bergschrund on climbers right - 1 little hop up. Ice pitches in good conditions - long way between belays. Keep to the left snow gully at the top. Climbed to far right at top and ended on the tournier spur a little too early - couple of tricky rock steps to get on to the final snow ridge.Cloud kept coming in and out making it more atmospheric/ tricky?! Cleared at the top. Found abseil station at the end on the snow ridge. Possible bivi site!. Made a number of long abseils - couldnt find final rap station - but it was dark. Too dark to ski down so we bivied on a rock in Jardin de Talefre

joe.91 12/Apr/17 AltLd dnf

Took a large chunk of ice to the face low down which knocked me off, held on by one axe which was lucky as we were simu climbing. Forced retreat as I could barely focus!

David Horwood 10/Apr/17 -
Hidden 07/Apr/17 AltLd
alexm198 07/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Monumental amounts of spindrift pouring down the second icefall, which slowed the pace a bit. 7h from the rimaye to the summit, including some time lost bodging a repair to Tim's crampon after the front bail snapped off 800m up the route. Long, frustrating walk back to town... 8h and 3000m of descent.

harry_lewis ?/Apr/17 AltLd dnf

forgot the quickdraws...

with CRead
CRead ?/Apr/17 AltLd dnf

Left Argentiere hut at 2am, took around 3 hours to walk in which included crossing a pretty sketchy looking snow bridge. Harry started up the first ice pitch, placed a screw 5m up, reached for a quickdraw and realised that none were on his harness, Turns out we left them all in Chamonix. 'Fucked it' is an understatement, i think this one will haunt us forever...

Richard Kendrick 30/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Misha
Simon Allcock 30/Mar/17 -

difficult crossing Bergschrund. heavy spindrift through 2 steeper sections, and very slow progress. uncomfortable bivvy high on route. finished next day.

with Wilki
Misha 30/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Steve Wakeford 10/Apr/14 Solo dnf

Took mixed start. Got to just above 2nd crux of direct route and then bailed -

Hidden 01/Apr/14 AltLd
Ally Baba ?/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben tibbetts
basvdploeg ??/2011 -
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