Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m, 8 - 10 hours. The most reliable route in the face, and hence the most climbed. It's not a bad line either!
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back onto the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly for the routes.
1) Get over the bergschrund and follow snow and névé to gain the entrance to the Messner Ramp. Follow this to reach the main north face icefield. In good conditions, it may be possible to gain the icefield directly but generally the Messner Ramp is the best option. It is 75 - 80 degrees in places and can be mixed when thin.
2) Climb the central icefield, which is sustained at 55 - 60 degrees, but eases slightly towards the top.
3) At the top of the icefield climb the wide left-hand of three gullies (85 degrees) and then head up and right across 80 degree icy mixed terrain to the furthest right runnel of ice.
4) Follow the runnel for 200m up 65 - 75 degree ice to reach the foot of a final steepening.
5) Climb this (85 degrees) for 70m to reach a snowy couloir which is hidden until you reach it.
6) Follow the snowy couloir easily for 100m to reach the Brèche des Droites.
Descent - Go over the summit and down into the Talèfre Basin via a series of 7 or 8 abseils down the south couloir from the Brèche des Droites. Having the ability to make 60m abseils hugely eases the difficulty of this so even if you're planning on only using one rope to climb with, consider taking another (or a tag line) for the descent. Once on the Talèfre Glacier, head for the Refuge du Couvercle and a well-earned kip! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 5

Jean Ginat, Modica, Simond & Troussier 24/Jul/1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Alpine Grande Courses.

Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 18/May/15 -
Hidden 16/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/15 -
stuart34 09/Oct/13 2nd

Simul climbed/soled and kim led the top ice pitches. 11hrs argentiere hut to Breche de doites. And - since looking at pictures of the route quite possibly off route to the left at the top ish?

with Kim Ladiges
Stuart Johnston 20/Nov/12 -

Last pitch had no ice. Big problem

The old James turnbull ?/Feb/12 AltLd

routeepic descent. only people to do it that winter till then. snow up to waist and found a body just to mention a couple of factors.

with rich howells, aiden
thebigeasy ?/Feb/12 -
Graham ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 17/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Francis
nickdonohue 06/May/11 AltLd

In good nick, some quite thin ice on steep sections but technically easy as so many steps / hooks from previous ascents.

with Mark McCarthy
Neil Adams 25/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
andyinglis 25/Apr/11 AltLd dnf


Hidden 17/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 17/Apr/11 AltLd
edek_w 07/Mar/11 -
Hidden 08/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 08/Feb/11 AltLd
stevepotter 29/Jan/11 2nd

Initial difficulty getting over the schrund as it was pretty dry and previous ways over had apparently collapsed. Went to the left 7.5 hours schrund to breche, 3 hours rap to the glacier.

with Matt
Ben Briggs 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Ally Baba 29/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Absoultly amazing conditions. Mega route. Got it in 10hrs 22mins! Just a tad of Uli's time.

with Dave Searle
Dave Searle 29/Sep/10 -

First grande course. great day out.

hamish2016 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Reached the breche 2.30pm and after a veeerrryyy long walk down in waist deep slush we reached Chamonix at 10.45pm.

with chris burn
frost 14/Apr/10 -
with Tom Livingstone
Dave Almond 19/Mar/10 AltLd
with Mark Thomas
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
daveyzxcv 04/Apr/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/09 AltLd
sgl 13/Oct/07 AltLd
with Konnie
Hidden 13/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
haydng ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Will
Hidden 20/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
morganator ?/Mar/97 AltLd
Martin Cooper ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S

What a day Perfect Approach skis to be back in the valley by 7pm

Hidden ?/Jul/88 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
Simon Richardson 25/Mar/82 AltLd
with Pat Bailey
70 users have this on their wishlist
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
Votes cast 12
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set