Access Banned
Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at Moorhill Quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.
15m.
The overhanging wall split by two ledges between Flamingos Fly and The Heather Blazing offers superb steep climbing above a nasty drop. A crux boulder starting at the matchable flat hold on a vague arete gains the first ledge. A blind technical groove then leads boldly to the second larger ledge and the best seat in the house. Finally, proceed up the final wall passing an undercut borehole, trending left along the lip to avoid unstable rock on the right. There is no gear on the route.
The grade suggested is for a good effort to protect the nasty drop before soloing onsight. Go slow!
The grade suggested is for a good effort to protect the nasty drop before soloing onsight. Go slow!
K. Kilroy (Headpoint solo above cargo net and 6 pads), N. Burns, C. Mussen, J. Colandairaj, M. O'Loughlin 30/Mar/2022.
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Route of Interest
Idlewild
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Slieve Bearnagh)