UKC

Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.

 

The stepped ramp feature on the left of the Moel Grips Wall.

Dan McManus May/2020.

Ticklists

The Dirty Dozens - North Wales Mountain Crags Vol.1

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Guidebooks for Moel y Gest Quarry

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Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Some Routes are Smaller Than Others

Grade: f6C ***
(Cwm Glas Bach Boulders)

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