Rockfax Description
A stunning route that is the entry-level qualification for the big E5s on this slab.
1) Start below the tower and make a rising traverse to reach good holds below the break. Place some gear and make a delicate mantel up to the bolt. A hard sequence of moves above this eventually leads to a decent three-finger edge. Beyond this each move is easier as you run it out to where a mantelshelf to reach the second bolt brings massive mental relief. Move up and left onto the rainbow, then teeter right to jugs. Ascend to the groove past microwires and microcams. Head up the groove to the top (loose and vegetated), or use the belay of the left and lower off or, if you want to extend the experience move left and belay on the prow and then...
2) Released from Treatment 6a, 25m. Step back down into the groove, and traverse out to a bolt level with the belay. Carry on traversing until below a second bolt, move up to this, and then step right above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy and finish up the good holds to the bolt belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Progression, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Ellis Bird ?/Aug Lead O/S
Lizlet13 02/Jul 2nd

Only one slip by 1st bolt

with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Liz Y
feilx 01/Jul Lead rpt
with Gaetan L
richiebongo 21/Jun Lead O/S
with paulo
owain86 19/May Lead G/U

Dropped the flash at the first bolt. Was okay 2nd go.

with Pablo
pablosordo 10/May Lead dog

fell from the crux, then started from he break , passed the crux and continued onsight to the top. Mega!

with owain
Hidden 02/Apr Lead
FlavioL1989 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Wow, on the lifetime list for a while, never thought I would do this now, especially on my last trad weekend of the year. Still don't know how I managed to get past those really thin bits, but eye-balling my feet seemed to work. Gets 6b in the GU guide.. my best weekend yet, in December!

with Jenny
JendeHoxar 18/Dec/16 2nd dog
max_dickens 02/Nov/16 Lead β

This is the slate route I wanted to do. first E5 and would be onsight but had seen too many pictures and heard too much about the it for the true onsight. Not sure how benificial all that beta was in the end, also only just reached the 2nd bolt on tip toes wouldn't have wanted to be a cm shorter! Thought there was a third bolt which in the end saw me having to reverse a little way along the rainbow Which was Intense to say the least! getting In the groove was trickier than expected Belter! best route I've done on slate

with Bennett, Dan Q
breed 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Left here a year and a half ago disappointed that I hadn't led it due to it getting dark/raining/excuses. Felt fine today, a bit bolt but just don't look down! Awesome to be able to walk on the rainbow.

deacondeacon 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Belayed theo on it so not a true onsight. What a beauty! Felt a bit sketchy in soft, squidgy old shoes, and it started raining so the top 1/3 was wet.

anguskille 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

psyched, thin moves! tough around the first bolt!

with Mike Grant
jacob shieldhouse hadley 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Elegant like a wasp.

with paddy
pablosordo 08/Jul/16 Lead dnf

fluffed the onsight after passing the crux, one to come back for

with simon
D.Russell 26/May/16 2nd
with Adam
Hidden 26/May/16 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 25/May/16 Lead O/S

Found this HARD, not my style, great fun. No chalk made it extra value.

GPN 06/May/16 Lead O/S

2nd E5 OS :-) Definitely not my strongest style of climbing - brilliant route though!

with Becca Lounds, Trad Exchange
belay bunny turned bad 06/May/16 Lead
with George
Hamish2322 ?/Apr/16 Lead RP
DanOsb 18/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Had a little play after Andy came down, got through the section by the first bolt up to the 2 crimps but no further

Andy Peak 1 18/Mar/16 Lead dnf

First go got to the bolt, slab v hot so lowered off striped gear. Second go got to the move before the second bolt but cud not commit to the move, down climbed and jumped off. Will return and comit:-)

Hidden ??/2016 -
dan gibson 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
FreddieSmith 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Becky Good
ianstevens 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Misha CC
Misha 21/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fell off the crux sequence going off the dishes just above the first bolt, so annoying as got it second go and did the rest fine. Outside edge on the matchstick foothold did the trick. Really wished I had stiffer shoes though! What a great route - safe where it's hard but run out where it's easier, lots of good moves and even got to walk along the rainbow for a bit. Started from the right and traversed into the good holds per the RF topo as going direct per GU was nails. Good gear in the break to protect the 5c rockover to clip the first bolt. Good rest and opportunity to contemplate what lies above. 6a move to get stood up on the last decent foothold for a while. Crux 6b move off the poor dishes follows to get decent crimps. Increasingly run our 5c above to get a good edge, with a final 5c mantle to clip the second bolt (don't fall off there!). Another 6a move past the second bolt and a couple of 5c moves to get on the rainbow just as the runout gets interesting. Exciting walk to gear below and in the finishing groove. Belayed on the prow and Ian finished off the E1 ish top pitch. Memorable! Hard E4 if I was being harsh but probably just about E5 for the 5c run outs. The hard moves are safe though. Gear: 0.3 and 0.4 cams, offsets (including small ones) and micros.

with Ian S
Adam Booth 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 23/May/15 2nd rpt
with Anna Pugh, Adam Booth
MischaHY 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

First E5 onsight, and also my first hard slate route. Phenomenal thin climbing with a terrifying crux move. Treading tentatively along the top of the rainbow was an incredibly intense moment.

tim newton 01/Feb/15 Lead G/U

Tried it last year and fell off at the first crux, realised my shoes were way too soft, so unclipped the bolt, took out the gear below and down climbed to the ground. Went first go today reasonably smoothly, nice to finally tick it off.

Rachel Slater 01/Feb/15 2nd β
Tom Livingstone 19/Nov/14 Lead G/U

Balls, blew the onsight by the first bolt. Went fine second go.

with Tim Neill, John Orr, Calum Muskett
i_a_coops 16/Nov/14 Lead β

Not quite onsight, as I had been told that the cruxes were near the bolts, which made it a lot less scary setting out.

with Jenny
robertmctague 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

well intense! first e5 onsight, awesome experience.

with Theo
datoon 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Coles
morganator 28/Sep/14 Lead dog

Harder than I remembered. Got the hard moves by the first bolt, 3 goes at the harder moves by the 2nd bolt. 6b in new slate guide- I agree

with John Roberts
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf
markalmack 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
Ben1983 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
duncandarnell 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt
C coldwell-storry 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead O/S
Dan724 28/Feb/14 Lead RP

Came off getting to the rainbow on my first go...I rocked up to a 'hold' which turned out to be a sun induced mirage (very frustrating). Bumped into Caff whilst belaying Ben on the Rainbow; he gave me some good beta which made the move I'd fallen on seem quite easy. I was initially very annoyed to have blown the onsight but I'm now determined to get on more E5's regardless of the fear of failing and to push myself wherever possible. Overall an amazing route with three sections of unforgettable climbing.

Ed morris 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The mantel was gripping but worth it for getting to walk along the rainbow! Found some of the last moves to the belay bolts desperate for some reason.

with Martin
Stefan_Morris 18/Sep/13 TR O/S
Keendan 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Found the moves by the bolts very hard. The rest didn't let up much, I wouldn't complain at 6b. Exciting

with Hayden Richards
andyinglis 23/May/13 Lead O/S

1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.

tcoombe1 06/May/13 2nd RP
with BenRyle
BenRyle 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions

Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Nickc ??/2013 -
Michael Allday 19/Oct/12 Lead rpt
shed_hed 19/Oct/12 2nd β

Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!

with Mike and Bruce
Gambit 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time

with OlI, Guiom, Barney
Ed Babs 04/Sep/12 Lead β

Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
Adam Long 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Robins
Michael Allday 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with John beecham
cballard ??/2012 -
jacobjacob 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...

wolf.leeb 14/Nov/11 Lead O/S

rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.

with rich, nic
willoates 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.

with Jimbob, Iona
Russell Birkett 01/Jun/11 Lead

yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!

with Murdoch J
Franco Cookson 25/May/11 Lead

O deer [sic] 2nd go. Slipped off by first bolt. Don't have an excuse, just careless foot placement and worried about blowing the onsight (ironic). Absolutely superb moves up the rainbow. Brilliant route, a tribute to the vision of designer danger.

with Rich
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
barni 22/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with luke
Luke Brooks 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Barni
beci tointen ?/Jan/11 Lead RP

fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)

with Jamie Kean
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Pippa 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Jon
smallerrich 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Cool route, the rainbows awesome!

with Crad
nige ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd O/S
farmus21 07/Feb/10 Lead RP


farmus21 26/Jan/10 TR RP

Will lead...will lead.

with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell
Alex Mason 26/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.

with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey
farmus21 26/Nov/09 2nd

Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')

with Alex Mason
Mike Goldthorp 02/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Pete H
feilx 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Angus
lukehunt 27/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Ripley
JulesV ??/2009 -
barni 17/Oct/08 Lead

fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy

with Tim
IOAN D 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with gareth
alaan 27/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 27/May/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 18/May/08 Lead β
morganator 18/May/08 Lead rpt
with Mike Robinson
ChalkBall 18/May/08 2nd O/S
Dave Bond 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
JulesV 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with joe bawden
Toby Dunn 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Ed Booth 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!

with Roel Driesen
Hidden ??/2007 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/06 2nd dog
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 11/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/05 Lead dog

Did all the hard bits then stupidly fell entering the groove above - how embarrasing!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 Lead

Let go going into the groove, highly disappointing after climbing the lower section cleanly. What an idiot.

with Jeff McDonald
Gus 28/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Lead O/S
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead

Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.

with Bryn Jones
Brown ?/Oct/01 2nd O/S
with Unknown
mr mills ??/2000 Lead O/S

a great slab climb

with edwin
Roget 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead β
BenTiffin ?/Sep/98 TR
nokishatov 12/Apr/98 2nd O/S
Ched ??/1997 TR
ste_d 10/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 10/Aug/96 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
steve taylor ?/Jul/95 Lead
with mark williams
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1995 Lead O/S

Take more than small RP's for top, mine never went in which made it a great buzz and v memorable

Hidden 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Oct/93 Lead
with Ali W
Hidden ?/Oct/93 2nd
Eduardo Martinez 17/Jun/93 Lead O/S

Probably the most scared I have every been. A crucial hand hold was damp way above my last runner. I ground fall was a real possibility.

Stoney Boy 19/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
Rich Kirby 01/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/92 Lead β
goi.ashmore 20/Jun/92 Lead β

Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was

with Simon Coles
mark-abz 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
mattnuttall 17/Jul/91 Lead O/S

First E5 - OS and suitably scary. :-)

with Matthieu Mounier
chrisdavies ?/May/91 Lead O/S

nice climb!

channinga ??/1991 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Bill Williamson
wynaptomos ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden User 56 ??/1990 Lead

Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.

mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Billg 29/Jun/89 2nd
with Jon Barton
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
NickHarms ??/1989 -
Steve Walker ??/1989 Lead
with Bill
Hidden 11/Sep/88 AltLd
Dave Douglas 24/Jul/88 2nd O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/88 2nd
with Nick White
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 14/Aug/87 2nd
with Andrew Jackson
sadams 12/Jul/87 Lead
with unseconded
Mike Owen 23/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Enty ??/1987 -
with A Gudgeon
Paul Clarke ??/1987 AltLd
with Paul Greenland, Nick Dalzell
Nick Biven ??/1987 2nd O/S
ukb & bmc shark ?/Jul/86 TR
with Charlie Stripp
keefe 05/May/86 -
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
jon 16/Jun/85 Lead
with Dave Walsh
Pedro50 29/May/85 Lead β
with Al Austin
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 48
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set