To the top of the difficulties. A good route in shitty condition - snow wading for the first half, then incredibly bare for the second. Moved together for nearly everything, put in two rope lengths at the end, led the final pitch which had no useful ice but cracks filled with verglas made it rather bold. Felt like a short but thuggy section of M6/+. Nearly too pumped to put the ropes in the belay plate by the end!

Only climbed couple of pitches before deciding to bail as the weather got worse.

Brilliant route. We took a left hand option at the crux which led to some delicate mixed climbing. All abseil anchors in place

Superb route, getting a little thin now. Heather cruised the very thin and technical mixed crux. I got the ice crux at the top - very hooked out but steep and pumpy!

Top pitch very thin and hard

Begins with easy snow slopes up to some mixed ground. We moved together up until the first icy ramp (80 degrees). We pitched from here onwards. The ice was well bonded but thin in places and didn't offer very reassuring screw placements. The pitches at the top of the difficulties were a little thinner but have good rock protection . The final crux was thin and strenuous but had just enough ice to reach around the corner.

Fresh snow on final pitches. Not enough ice on the crux, making it feel more like drytooling on alpine grade V.

Scottish conditions!, abbed off after the difficulties

Short weather window, so rammed up to the crux pitches moving together. Graham did a big 60m pitch to the belay on the right before the final steep groove, which is fairly hacked so a little delicate. The bad weather came in as forecast, so we bailed off in a torrent of spindrift. Nice to get something done on an iffy day.

Fell in the bergshrund and then bailed some way up, after a the top slope started avalanching down the route.

Simul-climbed up to the chimney then got buried in mini avalanches from the upper slope so bailed. Deep powder on the snow bits was hard work but the difficulties were in good condition.

An awesome route. Some gripping lean conditions but excellent climbing. Climbed the Direct Route. The slab at the top of the crux was very thinly iced and bold. Ab'ed off after the difficulties.

Stuck behind a slow party and an insanely dangerous Solvenian party climbing over the top of everyone so descended 2 pitches from the top

With R.K. - Two tired boys after epic on Les Courtes and attempt on Viking. traverse across from 'freque. Snow plod up to start. Then some smashing climbing. Ran out of steam/talent/time all at the same point; the crux high up. zipped down abseil and sprint back for last 'freque to Cham. Totally wasted . Very Happy .

Except the last two pitches which were too tenuous for us (lots of ice knocked off by previous parties by the look of it)

Wicked route, crux section a little thin at moment. Very hacked out

Just soloed most of it together, then simo-climbed the crux. Well worth going up to the breche for the view of the dru. Great wee route well recomended.

thinly iced on crux, but very shortlived difficulties