Rockfax Description
II, 500m. The most climbed route in this area. It is pretty reliably in condition and makes an excellent little day out.
Approach - From the top of the Grands Montets Lift, descend gently southwards.
1) Climb 50 degree snow for 100m and then follow 60 degree mixed ground to a narrow chimney.
2) Head up the chimney (which is superb) to reach a snow slope. Cross it diagonally up and left to reach a 10m high, steep step split by two gullies.
3) Climb these (80 degree ice) and a steepening ice/snow slope rightwards to a belay to the right of the crux ice section.
4) Step left and climb 15m of 85 degree ice to easier-angled terrain. Follow this for 10m and then climb the narrow, vertical icy runnel above.
5) Continue up 200m of 50 degree snow to reach the ridge.
Descent - Abseil on fixed anchors (but take some tat in case you can't find them or they need beefing up). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb snow slopes for 100m. A 65 degree ice wall on the L. leads to another snow slope followed by a deep, icy chimney (60 degrees). Climb the snow slope above for 50m then steep icy wall on the L. (80/85 degrees, can be thin). Above this is another slope then the crux pitch. Climb iced slabs for 10m to a belay on the right. Traverse L. into a corner and climb a sustained chimney (80 degrees) to more iced slabs and optional belay. From here a short steep gully (90 degrees) leads to easy snow slopes to the top.

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

Hidden 20/Apr/18 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/18 Lead
Hidden 22/Feb/18 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 AltLd
alexm198 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

To the top of the difficulties. A good route in shitty condition - snow wading for the first half, then incredibly bare for the second. Moved together for nearly everything, put in two rope lengths at the end, led the final pitch which had no useful ice but cracks filled with verglas made it rather bold. Felt like a short but thuggy section of M6/+. Nearly too pumped to put the ropes in the belay plate by the end!

mike.moss 29/Mar/16 AltLd dnf
with Kirill
Kirill 29/Mar/16 AltLd dnf

Only climbed couple of pitches before deciding to bail as the weather got worse.

robpartridge 28/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with Tim Neil
Hidden 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Matt Groom 10/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 05/Mar/16 -
Hidden ?/Mar/16 AltLd
James Thacker ??/2016 -
benclimbing 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. We took a left hand option at the crux which led to some delicate mixed climbing. All abseil anchors in place

with guy steven
Uisdean hawthorn 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
mim tiller 08/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 05/Apr/15 AltLd
DigitalSteak 24/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Superb route, getting a little thin now. Heather cruised the very thin and technical mixed crux. I got the ice crux at the top - very hooked out but steep and pumpy!

with HSwift
Hidden 13/Mar/15 AltLd
alooker ?/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 20/Mar/14 AltLd

Top pitch very thin and hard

with Richard Andrews, chris687
Hidden 20/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 20/Mar/14 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Fresh snow on final pitches. Not enough ice on the crux, making it feel more like drytooling on alpine grade V.

with Damien Tomasi
GraMc 13/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Scottish conditions!, abbed off after the difficulties

Alasdair Fulton 13/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Short weather window, so rammed up to the crux pitches moving together. Graham did a big 60m pitch to the belay on the right before the final steep groove, which is fairly hacked so a little delicate. The bad weather came in as forecast, so we bailed off in a torrent of spindrift. Nice to get something done on an iffy day.

with Graham Mcgrath
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Mar/13 AltLd
LucaC 24/Mar/13 AltLd

Fell in the bergshrund and then bailed some way up, after a the top slope started avalanching down the route.

with HarryB
HarryB 24/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

Simul-climbed up to the chimney then got buried in mini avalanches from the upper slope so bailed. Deep powder on the snow bits was hard work but the difficulties were in good condition.

with LucaC
The old James turnbull ?/Mar/13 AltLd
with aiden
mikeyjbs 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
Big Lee 02/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

An awesome route. Some gripping lean conditions but excellent climbing. Climbed the Direct Route. The slab at the top of the crux was very thinly iced and bold. Ab'ed off after the difficulties.

Rob84 23/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Stuck behind a slow party and an insanely dangerous Solvenian party climbing over the top of everyone so descended 2 pitches from the top

with Rob Adie
davebrox 17/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with owain
Neil Adams 03/Mar/12 AltLd
with Heike
msjhes2 03/Mar/12 AltLd
smithaldo 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with msjhes2, Clegg
Neil Adams 28/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Heike
Heike 28/Feb/12 AltLd
Limestone-Lad 25/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

With R.K. - Two tired boys after epic on Les Courtes and attempt on Viking. traverse across from 'freque. Snow plod up to start. Then some smashing climbing. Ran out of steam/talent/time all at the same point; the crux high up. zipped down abseil and sprint back for last 'freque to Cham. Totally wasted . Very Happy .

Rob84 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Except the last two pitches which were too tenuous for us (lots of ice knocked off by previous parties by the look of it)

with Gareth James, Chipie
Rhys Macallister 03/Feb/11 AltLd
stuart34 03/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Wicked route, crux section a little thin at moment. Very hacked out

Hidden 02/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ?/Feb/11 -
industrialiceman 31/Jan/11 2nd
Ally Baba 14/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Just soloed most of it together, then simo-climbed the crux. Well worth going up to the breche for the view of the dru. Great wee route well recomended.

with will sim
Hidden 03/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jan/11 AltLd
Ben Briggs 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 29/Apr/10 AltLd dnf
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 -
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 -
nickdonohue ?/Mar/10 AltLd

thinly iced on crux, but very shortlived difficulties

with Benoit Rosset
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
Hidden 09/Apr/07 AltLd
David Horwood 23/Mar/06 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Jan/00 AltLd
with Jon Bracey
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