UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

30m. The steepest and longest line up the overhang above the gully.
Start up Lunatic to where it steepens and branch out right up a the large tufa where some large moves allow the thin tufa of Maboulisme to be reached. Follow Maboulisme through its crux then make moves out right to join Not the Full Shilling just before its crux. Follow NTFS through the crux to the top. (See topo)

J Hartley 07/Aug/2022.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

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Route of Interest
Doctor Evil

Grade: 8a ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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