400m. A classic traverse of the summit ridge

G Crespi, E Frachey, G Frachey 28/Jul/1941

Ticklists

Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Pero 23 Aug AltLd
chris cockbain 22 Aug AltLd O/S Left Volante hut at 5am with some scary lightning storms still visible on monte Rosa. Lucky the weather cleared by sunrise to give perfect conditions all day. Took the arete direct up Briethorn Central - fantastic steep juggy rock if you have extra time for it. Back at cervina lift for 2:30
Left Volante hut at 5am with some scary lightning storms still visible on monte Rosa. Lucky the weather cleared by sunrise to give perfect conditions all day. Took the arete direct up Briethorn Central - fantastic steep juggy rock if you have extra time for it. Back at cervina lift for 2:30
Rory89 8 Aug Lead
Rory89 13 Jul AltLd
neal 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd From the Rossi bivi hut, then down to the KM lift. Lovely route, did the 1st step (IV) in two short pitches - excellent climbing, well worth doing, don't avoid it on the left as suggested in Moran (and as the other teams did). A few other teams out but fairly quiet until the final summit. c.f. Moran guide, we did 2x25m abseils from E twin (first abseil anchor you come to are older pegs, go down to next ledge and there is a good double bolt belay. 2nd anchor similar). From the W twin, instead of descending mixed ground on the RHS of the ridge, go a short way down LHS to good abseil bolts, we did 2x25m abseils from here, could have done 3.
with Stuart Mcleod
From the Rossi bivi hut, then down to the KM lift. Lovely route, did the 1st step (IV) in two short pitches - excellent climbing, well worth doing, don't avoid it on the left as suggested in Moran (and as the other teams did). A few other teams out but fairly quiet until the final summit. c.f. Moran guide, we did 2x25m abseils from E twin (first abseil anchor you come to are older pegs, go down to next ledge and there is a good double bolt belay. 2nd anchor similar). From the W twin, instead of descending mixed ground on the RHS of the ridge, go a short way down LHS to good abseil bolts, we did 2x25m abseils from here, could have done 3.
with Stuart Mcleod
Hidden 20 Aug, 2018 -
Mike Bovill 11 Aug, 2018 -
QuentinSu 26 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
dan_waterston 23 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Amazing! Half traverse, starting & finishing at lift. Think the half traverse goes at AD-, but not an option to pick on UKC.
Amazing! Half traverse, starting & finishing at lift. Think the half traverse goes at AD-, but not an option to pick on UKC.
Robertgiddy 18 Jul, 2018 - Best alpine route I've done. Walked into Carrel on Matterhorn after which made a pretty big day out!
with Butler!
Best alpine route I've done. Walked into Carrel on Matterhorn after which made a pretty big day out!
with Butler!
Butler! 18 Jul, 2018 -
Dom Goodwin 11 Jul, 2018 - A long day out. Around a 13 hour round trip from Val d’Ayas Guide’s Hut. We kept to guide book time till around the twins, when a problem with a prusik getting stuck on an abseil lost a lot of time and energy, and were much slower after that. Pekka did well to lead (and nicely protect) the hard direct pitch (IV) up the first step of central. It’s rather sustained with a hard move right at the top. A small rack with nuts and a few cams was useful. The bolts are quite spaced out. The rest is much easier (we did a mixture of moving together and pitching a few bits), but the ridge does go on for a while and of course by now, you may be quite tired. There were many tracks following the direct route back to the hut, so we decided to take the shortcut. It worked out ok and certainly saved time, but I think it was a mistake as the descent through the crevassed icefall was unpleasant and risky, especially late in the day.
with Pekka
A long day out. Around a 13 hour round trip from Val d’Ayas Guide’s Hut. We kept to guide book time till around the twins, when a problem with a prusik getting stuck on an abseil lost a lot of time and energy, and were much slower after that. Pekka did well to lead (and nicely protect) the hard direct pitch (IV) up the first step of central. It’s rather sustained with a hard move right at the top. A small rack with nuts and a few cams was useful. The bolts are quite spaced out. The rest is much easier (we did a mixture of moving together and pitching a few bits), but the ridge does go on for a while and of course by now, you may be quite tired. There were many tracks following the direct route back to the hut, so we decided to take the shortcut. It worked out ok and certainly saved time, but I think it was a mistake as the descent through the crevassed icefall was unpleasant and risky, especially late in the day.
with Pekka
ndraper1 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S 4:45 left bivi to climb Pollux, then onto the full traverse. Punchy snow conditions made it a bit of extra effort. Easy route finding. Its great and an amazing position throughout. Back to Cervinia top lift about 12:30/1pm
with Mike
4:45 left bivi to climb Pollux, then onto the full traverse. Punchy snow conditions made it a bit of extra effort. Easy route finding. Its great and an amazing position throughout. Back to Cervinia top lift about 12:30/1pm
with Mike
davkeo 23 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Left Rossi Volante bivi at 7:30. Decided on late start to give the low cloud a chance to burn off & let others put in a track. A heavy overnight storm produced quite wintery conditions on route & the day felt very Scottish. 2 other parties in the hut were also attempting the traverse but turned back after Roccia Nera. Overtook 1 guided party midway (only doing half traverse) & there was another party behind. Otherwise quite but still a track from an earlier team. Rock was snowed / iced up which made for some nice mixed climbing. An excellent Alpine route with beautifully corniced ridges, spectacular situations, views & exposure. 5hrs 30 to the Western Breithorn where we discovered where all the people had been hiding! Anni's last climb & last day & so a great sign off.
Left Rossi Volante bivi at 7:30. Decided on late start to give the low cloud a chance to burn off & let others put in a track. A heavy overnight storm produced quite wintery conditions on route & the day felt very Scottish. 2 other parties in the hut were also attempting the traverse but turned back after Roccia Nera. Overtook 1 guided party midway (only doing half traverse) & there was another party behind. Otherwise quite but still a track from an earlier team. Rock was snowed / iced up which made for some nice mixed climbing. An excellent Alpine route with beautifully corniced ridges, spectacular situations, views & exposure. 5hrs 30 to the Western Breithorn where we discovered where all the people had been hiding! Anni's last climb & last day & so a great sign off.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 2nd
Paal Kristoffer 8 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
ChrisDavis 12 Aug, 2016 -
with tsl42
with tsl42
tsl42 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Shaun Sharkey ?Jul, 2016 -
nation1 11 Sep, 2015 -
with Chris Cope
with Chris Cope
Steven Andrews 10 Sep, 2015 -
with Harry
with Harry
Harry Ellis 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd Airy fin. Superb route
with Steven Andrews, Chris Cox
Airy fin. Superb route
with Steven Andrews, Chris Cox
Hidden 23 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Chris Huntington 21 Aug, 2015 AltLd
davidmckeown ??, 2015 -
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 -
Keenb 15 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Dan Shacklock
with Dan Shacklock
Tommy Harris 13 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
nation1 23 Aug, 2013 - east to west
with ales cesen
east to west
with ales cesen
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd
7toes 5 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with DrewB
with DrewB
Hidden 1 Aug, 2013 -
Keith Lambley 26 Jul, 2013 -
with Kate R
with Kate R
Henrik 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Stefan
with Stefan
olekemi 16 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S In the AC guide, this is described as the traverse of the full Breithorn ridge. Thus, my route was from the KM cable car station (first lift 6:30am) across and along the glacier, and then the full ridge back from Roccia Nera. Good rock and ice, several abseils, a hefty ascent to the central summit (looks worse from a distance than it really is), and a few airy steps looking down the whole North Face under you. Speed is the key.
In the AC guide, this is described as the traverse of the full Breithorn ridge. Thus, my route was from the KM cable car station (first lift 6:30am) across and along the glacier, and then the full ridge back from Roccia Nera. Good rock and ice, several abseils, a hefty ascent to the central summit (looks worse from a distance than it really is), and a few airy steps looking down the whole North Face under you. Speed is the key.
Hidden 11 Sep, 2012 Lead
Stuart Johnston 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Half traverse. Short and sweet. 4.5h lift to lift.
with Misha Gopaul
Half traverse. Short and sweet. 4.5h lift to lift.
with Misha Gopaul
Jon Ellis 7 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with jkellis
with jkellis
MartinN 27 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Full traverse of all 5 summits after spending the night at the Rossi Volante bivi hut. 6:50 from the bivi to the KM lift station.
Full traverse of all 5 summits after spending the night at the Rossi Volante bivi hut. 6:50 from the bivi to the KM lift station.
TimPerkin 27 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Martin Newman
with Martin Newman
Sir Pilade ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
Loubylou 28 Aug, 2011 2nd Guide Bruce Goodlad
with Andy Ball
Guide Bruce Goodlad
with Andy Ball
Vincej 4 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Fred Drouet
with Fred Drouet
HimTiggins 5 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Carla, Danny
with Carla, Danny
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 -
edmitchell ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with kitty duncan
with kitty duncan
benclimbing ?Sep, 2009 AltLd
garethsteel ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
AJM 18 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Lovely route. Nice climbing on the rock sections and great views.
with Simon Goldman
Lovely route. Nice climbing on the rock sections and great views.
with Simon Goldman
kevburr 11 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
with Roger Payne
glaramara ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with catherine doran, lex
with catherine doran, lex
Scott McRae 27 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Great day out, Fine exposure and nice climbing. Started from Testa Grigia which didn't add too much to trhe day.
with Stefano
Great day out, Fine exposure and nice climbing. Started from Testa Grigia which didn't add too much to trhe day.
with Stefano
Hidden 17 Aug, 2008 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 Lead
sacdenouilles 8 Jul, 2008 AltLd
with Graham Burns
with Graham Burns
benclimbing ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Steel
with Gareth Steel
Hidden 23 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 2nd
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2005 -
with PaulC
with PaulC
Hidden 15 Jul, 2005 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 2nd
Dave Mountford ??, 2004 -
DerwentDiluted ?Aug, 1999 AltLd
with Tim Stain
with Tim Stain
babymoac 30 Aug, 1993 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1993 -
30 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set