Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

FFME link with more info

Rockfax Description
III, 300m, 4 - 6 hours. A wonderful alpine ridge finishing on a very scenic summit - this route really should see more traffic. That it doesn't is probably due to the long approach and the remoteness of the route; the technical difficulties are low but retreat is difficult and the descent from the top is no pushover even in ideal conditions.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, head northeast, past the Aiguille du Génépi, to reach the Glacier des Améthystes. Follow the left-hand side of this to reach the foot of the initial snow ramp, 400m west of the Col du Tour Noir.
Start at the foot of a wide, snowy couloir, below and left of a distinctive rock pinnacle.
1) Climb the snowy couloir and follow it to the ridgeline via a short mixed pitch at the end.
2) Pass right around the first tower via straightforward but exposed scrambling.
3) Continue on the ridge crest and then descend a 20m chimney (can be abseiled).
4) Traverse snow and broken rock on the Argentière side of the ridge, taking the line of least resistance but staying 20 - 50m below the crest, to reach the snow couloir leading up to the Flèche Rousse itself.
5) Follow the couloir until just before it crests the ridge, then turn left and follow snowy mixed ground to the foot of the Flèche Rousse summit tower.
6) 5a, Depending on your crack climbing ability, this can be climbed in a number of places but is best tackled by the wide (body width) crack (5a, 30m) which splits two sections of grey rock, below and left of an imposing orange overhang.
7) Move left above the crack and scramble easily to the Flèche Rousse summit. The route from here is only visible once you get there.
8) Head in the direction of the Aiguille d'Argentière and make a 20m abseil onto the north side of the ridge.
9) Downclimb, or abseil, another 5m to reach a col at 3827m, then follow easy and extremely well-positioned ground to the summit of the Aiguille d'Argentière.
Descent - Descend either the Whymper Route or the Glacier du Milieu, depending on what the Refuge d'Argentière guardian recommends. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From Argentiere hut up Amethystes Glacier and then turn left up a snow slope to the arete - follow this with long sections of II/III rock, including a tight post box, 15 metre abseil off the Fleche Rousse (avoidable as don't need to go to Fleche Rousse), from there to the summit and down one of the glaciers as per one of the Normal Routes.

G.H.Masse, J.H.Wicks, M.C.Wilson 03/Aug/1893

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
HaleAlex ?Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Lead the crux pitch
with James Lawson
Lead the crux pitch
with James Lawson
vitaj 8 Jul, 2018 -
tjockosne 5 Jul, 2018 -
walts4 29 Dec, 2016 - Mid winter ascent, soft sugary snow on the Swiss side, but perfect on the South, French side. The top part of the Mileau was ice, very unpleasant, the lack of snow this winter was so evident on the descent.
with pat
Mid winter ascent, soft sugary snow on the Swiss side, but perfect on the South, French side. The top part of the Mileau was ice, very unpleasant, the lack of snow this winter was so evident on the descent.
with pat
Rob Pitt 7 Oct, 2016 -
with guy757
with guy757
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 -
Jgresh 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd Challenging route finding. Approx 18hrs activity
Challenging route finding. Approx 18hrs activity
masa-alpin 8 Aug, 2016 2nd β Rob lead all the way except the last stretch, where Simon took over. 2 abseils. 3am start and 13.5 hrs activity, including packing up the tent and a tedious descent all the way to the mid-station of Grands Montets.
Rob lead all the way except the last stretch, where Simon took over. 2 abseils. 3am start and 13.5 hrs activity, including packing up the tent and a tedious descent all the way to the mid-station of Grands Montets.
perrys 8 Aug, 2016 -
with Rob Goodman, masa-alpin
with Rob Goodman, masa-alpin
robgixer 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hoyes 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Following Alex, David and Matt. Great route but hard for AD. Difficult route finding at times and tricky chimney near top.
with Batt
Following Alex, David and Matt. Great route but hard for AD. Difficult route finding at times and tricky chimney near top.
with Batt
David Kay 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Lumbering Oaf, Alex Shipp
with Lumbering Oaf, Alex Shipp
Lumbering Oaf 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route but took quite a while to do it due to route finding. Made the summit of the Aig. D'Argentiere by late afternoon. Descended the Millieu Glacier on a hot afternoon to return to bivy site.
with Alex Shipp, David Kay
Great route but took quite a while to do it due to route finding. Made the summit of the Aig. D'Argentiere by late afternoon. Descended the Millieu Glacier on a hot afternoon to return to bivy site.
with Alex Shipp, David Kay
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 Lead
Hidden 29 Jun, 2016 AltLd
steve_gibbs 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Pete Leeming
with Pete Leeming
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
67hours 3 Sep, 2014 -
with Hannah, Clay C
with Hannah, Clay C
jonskippy 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with benclimbing, Edgars, cashley
with benclimbing, Edgars, cashley
benclimbing 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Patience paid off as we waited for good weather so the snow was in perfect condition for the approach and the descent down the Mileu Glacier. Fun scrambling on the ridge with one or two quite dangerous sections of weetabix! A fantastic day but a shame to miss the last telefrique by 10 mins! Took an extra hour to walk down to Argentiere
with cashley, Edgars, jonskippy
Patience paid off as we waited for good weather so the snow was in perfect condition for the approach and the descent down the Mileu Glacier. Fun scrambling on the ridge with one or two quite dangerous sections of weetabix! A fantastic day but a shame to miss the last telefrique by 10 mins! Took an extra hour to walk down to Argentiere
with cashley, Edgars, jonskippy
alastairbegley 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd Snow was in appalling condition, took us ages due to wading in knee deep snow with a hard crust. Great ridge and fun rock climbing though! http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/flche-rousse-aiguille-dargentire/
with Slick
Snow was in appalling condition, took us ages due to wading in knee deep snow with a hard crust. Great ridge and fun rock climbing though! http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/flche-rousse-aiguille-dargentire/
with Slick
Slick 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd Route finding fun and snow not great but wow! What a day!
Route finding fun and snow not great but wow! What a day!
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix 20 Apr, 2014 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/04/21/arete-de-fleche-rousse-milieu-glacier-aiguille-dargentiere-3901m/
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/04/21/arete-de-fleche-rousse-milieu-glacier-aiguille-dargentiere-3901m/
DaveThexton ??, 2014 Lead
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 14 Aug, 2013 -
prwalker 14 Aug, 2013 -
with wupert
with wupert
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 -
Patrik ?Aug, 2011 -
Adi Hooper 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd Traversed the mountain from the Argentiere hut.
with Roger Ward
Traversed the mountain from the Argentiere hut.
with Roger Ward
Hidden 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 -
stephenmckenzie 14 Jul, 2010 AltLd dnf Out of conidition despite reports to the contrary. Snow gave way underfoot on several occassions. Serious falls narrowly avoided. Choppered. Nothing hurt except pride. Dissapointing and embarrassing way to end first trip to the alps.
with John Brannock, Greg Martin
Out of conidition despite reports to the contrary. Snow gave way underfoot on several occassions. Serious falls narrowly avoided. Choppered. Nothing hurt except pride. Dissapointing and embarrassing way to end first trip to the alps.
with John Brannock, Greg Martin
ffdalton 6 Jul, 2010 -
with Dean Dalton
with Dean Dalton
Em66 21 Jul, 2009 -
with Freg1
with Freg1
jamieevans ??, 2009 AltLd
Misha ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
RobScotland ?May, 2007 AltLd O/S Care required on glacier during descent - crevasses.
with jonnyb
Care required on glacier during descent - crevasses.
with jonnyb
bandersnatch ?Jul, 2006 Lead
with Mairi B
with Mairi B
1202alarm ?Jun, 2004 - Cool ridge route
Cool ridge route
Tim W ??, 2001 - long long day!
long long day!
bandersnatch ?Jul, 1999 Lead
agagsgrot ?Aug, 1992 -
Michael ?Aug, 1992 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1991 -
Laramadness 20 Jul, 1991 -
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