Frendo, Rebuffat and Terray 10/Oct/1943.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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raliadsa skcalbwah | 30 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Massive, massive sandbag! Harder than the Cassin on the Piz Badile which we did earlier in the week. Did this thinking it would be similar to Sudgrat on Salbitschjen or North Ridge on the Badile. Compared to those three routes, the route we climbed was TD+. Also it’s probably more like 800metres than the 600 quoted. Actual quality of climbing is very good if old school. The crumbling north face of the Aiguille du Midi is a depressing and dangerous site from the Pèlerins. We saw some absolutely massive rockfalls coming down but thankfully no one in the firing line and it was quiet when we lasse through on the descent. 45 mins approach from Plan de l’Aiguille, 8 hrs on route, 2.30 descent from summit to Plan de l’Aiguille. Missed lift due to much bigger outing than planned and walked down to Cham in 1.30 from Plan de l’Aiguille, missing a lightning storm by a few minutes! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Massive, massive sandbag! Harder than the Cassin on the Piz Badile which we did earlier in the week. Did this thinking it would be similar to Sudgrat on Salbitschjen or North Ridge on the Badile. Compared to those three routes, the route we climbed was TD+. Also it’s probably more like 800metres than the 600 quoted. Actual quality of climbing is very good if old school. The crumbling north face of the Aiguille du Midi is a depressing and dangerous site from the Pèlerins. We saw some absolutely massive rockfalls coming down but thankfully no one in the firing line and it was quiet when we lasse through on the descent. 45 mins approach from Plan de l’Aiguille, 8 hrs on route, 2.30 descent from summit to Plan de l’Aiguille. Missed lift due to much bigger outing than planned and walked down to Cham in 1.30 from Plan de l’Aiguille, missing a lightning storm by a few minutes! |
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Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)