Rockfax Description
Start near the middle of the main wall below a high cable thread. The route is much slabbier than it appears in this topo. 2
1) 3c, 20m. Climb up easy rock to a large tree.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack - some lava rock on the left - to a roof. Move right across a slab below the roof and belay at its end.
3) 6a, 20m. Take the crack up over the overlap, at it's top by a ledge step right into the continuation of the crack and then moce back left to the belay. The 6a move is very short lived more faith in friction based move by a bolt.
4) 4a, 30m. Move up and left to a right-trending crack and follow this up to a vegetated ledge. Move left to belay below a slab.
5) 4c, 50m. Climb the slab to an overlap, move over this and follow a crack to the base of a corner, just right of the ridge. Climb half way up the corner to belay.
6) 4c, 20m. Carry on up the corner and belay on left on the ridge.
7) 5a, 20m. Head up and right for a few moves then then trend back left towards a roof. Turn this on its left-hand end and traverse the lip rightwards to belay at the base of a short corner.
8) 4c, 20m. Climb a short corner to the start of the ridge.
9) 50m. Scramble up the ridge to below a tricky slab.
10) 4a, 30m. Climb the slab to a small corner and ascend this to reach the continuation of the easy ridge.
Descent - Go up the rocky exposed crest of the ridge to the col at the top of the large descent gully with a path leading down between this crag and the main Cueto Agero. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mic1024 | 12 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic adeventure climbing. Could use some cleaning in places. Somewhat tricky to find the start though.we found it by walking around a lot and then from the gate at the bottom of descent gully path (if ur coming from the right) its probably another 100m and carins mark fork up to the base of the climb. Route goes via broken blocks to a tree. Very scrappy but very easy. You kind of have to trust ur feeling you are on the right route. We did first 2 pitches as one (from the tree another bit up), then u are at the crux right trending crack with insitu peg so u know ur on it. Crux is around e1,5b, but very safe. Maybe hvs 5b. Few other pitches can also be run together, so take the route description with a pinch of salt. Half ropes recommened then for managing the drag. Took us 40min walking in, 30min finding the start, 4h climbing, 1.30h descent to the car. (Descent gully path is very well defined). | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic adeventure climbing. Could use some cleaning in places. Somewhat tricky to find the start though.we found it by walking around a lot and then from the gate at the bottom of descent gully path (if ur coming from the right) its probably another 100m and carins mark fork up to the base of the climb. Route goes via broken blocks to a tree. Very scrappy but very easy. You kind of have to trust ur feeling you are on the right route. We did first 2 pitches as one (from the tree another bit up), then u are at the crux right trending crack with insitu peg so u know ur on it. Crux is around e1,5b, but very safe. Maybe hvs 5b. Few other pitches can also be run together, so take the route description with a pinch of salt. Half ropes recommened then for managing the drag. Took us 40min walking in, 30min finding the start, 4h climbing, 1.30h descent to the car. (Descent gully path is very well defined). |
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Logged Ascents
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Espolón Sur
Grade: 6a ***
(Cueto Agero (Hermida Gorge South))