A more direct start to Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner. Start just left of Stormy Petrel (the original attempt on Rhyme also started up here).
1. 50m Climb icy slabs just left of Stormy Petrel for 30m to a steep rock prow. Arrange gear in a crack on a right-facing wall, then descend slightly and climb an obvious steep corner-groove. From the top of this, step left onto a
hanging icy slab and traverse this leftwards to gain ice leading to an obvious hanging icicle. Belay below and right of the hanging icicle.
2. 40m Steep mixed moves up an overhanging groove gain the icicle (good small to medium cams in a crack at the back of the groove). Pull over on ice to join Rhyme and follow icy grooves above to the base of the headwall.
3. Break through the headwall as for Rhyme.
1. 50m Climb icy slabs just left of Stormy Petrel for 30m to a steep rock prow. Arrange gear in a crack on a right-facing wall, then descend slightly and climb an obvious steep corner-groove. From the top of this, step left onto a
hanging icy slab and traverse this leftwards to gain ice leading to an obvious hanging icicle. Belay below and right of the hanging icicle.
2. 40m Steep mixed moves up an overhanging groove gain the icicle (good small to medium cams in a crack at the back of the groove). Pull over on ice to join Rhyme and follow icy grooves above to the base of the headwall.
3. Break through the headwall as for Rhyme.
Ian Parnell, Viv Scott 24/Mar/2007.
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Route of Interest
Twisted
Grade: VII 7 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan)