24m.
On Disco Buttress at the top of Chapel crag gully sits a brilliant wall of rock -
At the right hand side of the crag at some good holds directly under a large undercut fang in the bulge, climb to this (good cam slot up & left). Make a tricky traverse leftwards to small edges & hard moves up to a good side pull (shallow wire placement(s) out right). Strenuous moves rightward gain a small pocket & a good but tricky to place wire, small crimps above following the faint crack lead to better holds & easier climbing
At the right hand side of the crag at some good holds directly under a large undercut fang in the bulge, climb to this (good cam slot up & left). Make a tricky traverse leftwards to small edges & hard moves up to a good side pull (shallow wire placement(s) out right). Strenuous moves rightward gain a small pocket & a good but tricky to place wire, small crimps above following the faint crack lead to better holds & easier climbing
Tim Millen, Scott Quinn 13/May/2023.
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Route of Interest
Pail Face (Bucket City Finish)
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))