UKC

This is essentially a one pitch route with a very long, rambling approach. The one pitch is a very clean and striking off-fingers / thin hands corner. Graded 11c, but many consider it hard for the grade.

Start of the climb is reached via a 3rd/4th class gully ledge system to the east of Bridalveil Falls. From parking at the straightaway in front of Lower Cathedral Rock take the Valley loop trail west to just before a bridge. From here, head directly up talus until you reach the wall and look for a gully. Head up this for about 400'. When it flattens out head right to reach the wall. Head up a 3rd class gully looking for an obvious gully/ramp system that heads up to the striking corner.

P1. When you reach the obvious ramp / gully system head up towards the visible striking corner. 5.4 - a full rope length, belay at a tree.

P2. A short pitch to finish the ramp and then head right and over a roof to the base of the corner (5.9). Heading left before the roof is "Overhang Bypass" 5.7.

P3. The corner - off fingers / tight hands for the most part. Finishes at 2 bolt anchor. (5.11c).

You can either continue up Overhang Bypass (5.7) from the top of the corner which leads to the top of Lower Cathedral and then descend via the Gunsight (notch between Lower and Middle cathedral - 3rd/4th class down climbing with occasional short rappels. Or rappel the route with an 80m or two ropes.

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Guidebooks for Lower Cathedral Rock

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High 5.11d
Mid 5.11d
Low 5.11d
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
Route of Interest
Chouinard / Herbert

Grade: 5.11c ***
(Sentinel Rock)

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