80m, 2 pitches.
A moderate but largely adventurous line.
Build a belay in the large cracks and boulders located a few meters from the top of cliff face. Rapel half the route to a comfortable slabby ledge (possible to do with a 60m rope but very tight. 70/80m rope recommended). Second rappel anchor required built in the shallow crack (purple and grey BD C4 cams backed up with a small green wildcountry wire) rappel from here to the base of the route and pull ropes.
Pitch 1; Establish at the reasonably comfortable belay at the base of large chimney (belay protected with a reasonable wire high up). Lead the chimney to the roof where good cam placements will be found. Pull right through the corner onto slab face and continue on reasonable holds with good wire and cam placements to be found in the dihedral crack. Traverse right of the roof, protected by a decent wire on the corner (alpine quick draw needed to avoid the rope drag/jamming in the crack) and enter the pitch 1 crux stemming your way back up to your rappel anchor.
Pitch 2; Traverse left from the belay 10m to find a broken corner. Climb ramp and commit to find the good holds on the slab above. Continue up and trending left towards the highest point of the headwall. Find all the placements possible as the runout begins! Easy climbing through loose rock.. Tentatively onwards. The gear becomes more available towards the top and an easy top out rewards spectacular views of Pistol Bay!
There is some features to be slung at the top but little to no gear placements for the second. Take your time!
A great adventure climb in beautiful surroundings that's definitely worth a visit ⭐⭐⭐
Build a belay in the large cracks and boulders located a few meters from the top of cliff face. Rapel half the route to a comfortable slabby ledge (possible to do with a 60m rope but very tight. 70/80m rope recommended). Second rappel anchor required built in the shallow crack (purple and grey BD C4 cams backed up with a small green wildcountry wire) rappel from here to the base of the route and pull ropes.
Pitch 1; Establish at the reasonably comfortable belay at the base of large chimney (belay protected with a reasonable wire high up). Lead the chimney to the roof where good cam placements will be found. Pull right through the corner onto slab face and continue on reasonable holds with good wire and cam placements to be found in the dihedral crack. Traverse right of the roof, protected by a decent wire on the corner (alpine quick draw needed to avoid the rope drag/jamming in the crack) and enter the pitch 1 crux stemming your way back up to your rappel anchor.
Pitch 2; Traverse left from the belay 10m to find a broken corner. Climb ramp and commit to find the good holds on the slab above. Continue up and trending left towards the highest point of the headwall. Find all the placements possible as the runout begins! Easy climbing through loose rock.. Tentatively onwards. The gear becomes more available towards the top and an easy top out rewards spectacular views of Pistol Bay!
There is some features to be slung at the top but little to no gear placements for the second. Take your time!
A great adventure climb in beautiful surroundings that's definitely worth a visit ⭐⭐⭐
Team accent Rory Grainger & Joe Treanor 04/Jul/2023.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Mylrea
Grade: VS 4b ***
(The Chasms)