12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant long route up the tallest section of Hægefjell. The route offers varied climbing in a sensational setting but be prepared for a long day.
Approach - From the campground/parking area follow the well-worn path that leads to the south east face. Branch off almost directly below the large slanting groove that makes up the central section of the route. Tyrion is scratched into the rock at the start of the route. Solo/scramble up the initial slab and arrange a belay.
1) N4, 45m. Climb easy rock through grassy ledges to a groove. Climb the groove to a belay at its top on an old fixed nut.
2) N6-, 45m. From the belay, climb up a flake, move out right and make a slabby move to reach a left-slanting groove. Climb the groove with small friends for protection and a hard friction move near the end of the groove. Belay directly above.
3) N4, 45m. An easier pitch trending left.
4) N6-, 40m. Climb up and then right on a ramp to a bolt without hanger. Use this by sliding a nut over the head then friction up the slab. Above this enter the so-called 'Super Hangel', the slanting groove with a crack. Follow this to a 2 bolt belay.
5) N5, 45m. Climb blocky terrain leftwards and up. Just when you start to worry there is some gear in a small crack before gaining a slab. Climb this to the next belay.
6) N7, 17m. A short but pumpy pitch. Follow the bolts to a single bolt belay (or back it up with the last bolt on the pitch below).
7) N5, 45m. Traverse right on a slab. The first bolt is difficult to reach - an option is not to clip it! Continue to another bolt and some gear before you reach a belay in a huge groove.
8) N5, 50m. Follow the groove by smearing your way up. Getting off route here is impossible and some bigger cams (Friend 3.5 and 4 ) are useful.
9) N6-, 45m. A beautiful pitch. Continue up the slabby groove and up steeper cracks to small but exquisite groove. On top of the cracks move along the edge to a belay.
10) N5, 45m. Move out right from the belay to find some protection, then move left to a brilliant position just above the top of the big arch (exposed). Continue direct to a small ledge and belay.
11) N3+, 50m. The angle of the climb is now leaning back and this pitch is just transport towards the top. Trend slightly left on slabby terrain to the next belay.
12) N5, 40m. Continue straight up via a hard move (bolt) through slabby terrain to the last belay.
Descent - From the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes on the highest part of the crag via a series of grooves.

G. Wiechmann, J&W Fischer 1992

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
phhagen 24 Aug AltLd β PH falt på siste bolt før standplass på taulengden med grad 7. Firte ned og ledet på nytt uten fall. Løsningen var å traversere lavt mot høyre nær bolten.
with Tobias Foslid
PH falt på siste bolt før standplass på taulengden med grad 7. Firte ned og ledet på nytt uten fall. Løsningen var å traversere lavt mot høyre nær bolten.
with Tobias Foslid
davewragg 30 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Great climbing but just unbearably cold in the wind. Backed off from the top of the super hangel.
with Matt Steffensen
Great climbing but just unbearably cold in the wind. Backed off from the top of the super hangel.
with Matt Steffensen
Martin Bagshaw 30 Aug, 2017 AltLd All pitches free apart from the crux, which everyone probably aids anyway. Would probably have had a redpoint if we weren't pressed for time; some extra routefinding required. Great route
All pitches free apart from the crux, which everyone probably aids anyway. Would probably have had a redpoint if we weren't pressed for time; some extra routefinding required. Great route
Hidden 30 Aug, 2017 AltLd
ilbuiz 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd dog Actually I cheated on the crux, but who cares :D All trad barring 5 bolts on the crux pitch+traverse. Awesome route.
Actually I cheated on the crux, but who cares :D All trad barring 5 bolts on the crux pitch+traverse. Awesome route.
Romsdaler 15 Jun, 2017 Lead I lead 10/12 lengths. Great climb, hard crux to free.
I lead 10/12 lengths. Great climb, hard crux to free.
hermstad 5 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Mats Gjerustad
with Mats Gjerustad
Mattyk 20 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Ali led crux pitch. some cool features, flakes etc to climb. A long day out 9 hours!!
with ali k
Ali led crux pitch. some cool features, flakes etc to climb. A long day out 9 hours!!
with ali k
Hidden 20 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High n7/7+
Mid n7/7+
Low n7/7+
High n7
Mid n7
Low n7
High n7-/7
Mid n7-/7
Low n7-/7
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set