215m, 6 pitches.
Fantastic wall with an accessible walk in and walk off in Pierce's Pass. Rebolted in 2022 so no more need for carrots and all the belays are on comfortable ledges.
P1 - 50m (22) A pumper pitch that climbs way better than it looks. Short left facing wide corner crack to start (1 bolt). Launch left and up long black face which trends left for about 35m before heading up face just left of arete. Belay on tiny awkward ledge so you can see 2nd - then move belay up 6m to larger ledge.
P2 - 35m (20) Annoying lip mantle to start (crux) then cruisy runout slab to reach another band of vegetation. Scramble through this and up to belay ledge.
P3 - 30m (21) Traverse left and up wall just left of arete. Belay on ledge below daunting orange wall.
P4 - 25m (23) Crux. Techy, thin and reachy wall with just enough holds. Belay under roof.
P5 - 35m (21) Monkey out roof and up juggy wall to easy face up to the major ledge.
P6- 45m (22) Move belay 6m right along ledge to 2nd set of anchors. Steep start then traverse 8m right across very juggy face to arete. The holds are massive but slightly nerve wracking and this traverse should be treated as do-not-fall territory given the risks of a pendulum for leader or seconder across the ironstone. Continue up wall and prow to belay on ledge.
P1 - 50m (22) A pumper pitch that climbs way better than it looks. Short left facing wide corner crack to start (1 bolt). Launch left and up long black face which trends left for about 35m before heading up face just left of arete. Belay on tiny awkward ledge so you can see 2nd - then move belay up 6m to larger ledge.
P2 - 35m (20) Annoying lip mantle to start (crux) then cruisy runout slab to reach another band of vegetation. Scramble through this and up to belay ledge.
P3 - 30m (21) Traverse left and up wall just left of arete. Belay on ledge below daunting orange wall.
P4 - 25m (23) Crux. Techy, thin and reachy wall with just enough holds. Belay under roof.
P5 - 35m (21) Monkey out roof and up juggy wall to easy face up to the major ledge.
P6- 45m (22) Move belay 6m right along ledge to 2nd set of anchors. Steep start then traverse 8m right across very juggy face to arete. The holds are massive but slightly nerve wracking and this traverse should be treated as do-not-fall territory given the risks of a pendulum for leader or seconder across the ironstone. Continue up wall and prow to belay on ledge.
Michael Law, Venus Kondos, S Howden & F Huster 2000.
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Route of Interest
Scheme of Things
Grade: 23 ***
(Bardens Lookout)