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120m, 4 pitches.
The first half of the classic ascent of the Paroi de Grand Couloir offering excellent rock, no crowds, decent equipment and fairly easy at the grade. Best combined with the Arete de Grand Coulour to reach the top of Sainte Victoire.
The first two pitches are very well equipped with new bolts, after that there is the odd bolt and piton but you will need some lead gear to supplement.
Very well described (in French) on the camptocamp.org website.
The start is located about five minutes scramble above the brown path a little to the east of Refuge Boudino, look for a small cairn.
Pitch 1: 5a 35m. Steep but juggy climbing with excellent bolts up the arete. Last 10m or so beware loose stones. Bolt belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2: 5b 25m. Similar to pitch one but slightly harder. Move the belay left to the other end of the ledge to the obvious bolt line. A key jug lies hidden high up to the right on the early crux. A couple of moves just about warrant 5c but are easily aided thanks to the excellent bolts. Belay on terrace.
Pitch 3: 5a 35m. There is only one 5a move right at the start protected by a well placed bolt. After this short wall it is mostly easy scrambling, no fixed gear, up the arete to a sloping break where a belay will need to be built.
Pitch 4: 4a 25m. Straight up the arete, easily, to belay at the back of a reddish ledge at the bottom of the Arete de Grand Coulour.Arête du Grand Couloir
The first two pitches are very well equipped with new bolts, after that there is the odd bolt and piton but you will need some lead gear to supplement.
Very well described (in French) on the camptocamp.org website.
The start is located about five minutes scramble above the brown path a little to the east of Refuge Boudino, look for a small cairn.
Pitch 1: 5a 35m. Steep but juggy climbing with excellent bolts up the arete. Last 10m or so beware loose stones. Bolt belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2: 5b 25m. Similar to pitch one but slightly harder. Move the belay left to the other end of the ledge to the obvious bolt line. A key jug lies hidden high up to the right on the early crux. A couple of moves just about warrant 5c but are easily aided thanks to the excellent bolts. Belay on terrace.
Pitch 3: 5a 35m. There is only one 5a move right at the start protected by a well placed bolt. After this short wall it is mostly easy scrambling, no fixed gear, up the arete to a sloping break where a belay will need to be built.
Pitch 4: 4a 25m. Straight up the arete, easily, to belay at the back of a reddish ledge at the bottom of the Arete de Grand Coulour.Arête du Grand Couloir
"Local climbers" 2015.
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