UKC

14m. A 14 m long crack climbing route with tricky body jamming problem. Finishing on the anchor of ‘Mad Dogs F6A’. It could be the only full-body jamming route in Hong Kong!!!

The crack is between the 'Mad Dog' and 'Newtonian Trajectory. Using the anchor of 'Mad Dog' on the right.

Warning!!! The status of the rock itself is rather unstable. Salty rock falls occurred when I was climbing and went all over my mouth, jacket and pants. That’s why I would love to name it as ‘Salty Body’. A couple of flakes could fall off from the crack.

Climber and belayer should be aware of that!

LC Leung & Ben Powrie 17/Dec/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
StormBreaker 18 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you have set some solid protection before you reach the crumbling flake. Afterwards, you start to jam your body upward. You may have found that it is hard to find solid protection. Nevertheless, you know you won’t fall as you jammed your body ‘comfortably’ in the crack. After setting a cam(green) on the left, you have to decide whether you should go further inside for slightly solid protection in the cave with a decent position for resting and turn around or give it a push, runout for 5 m and climb over to reach the anchor of ‘Mad Dogs F6A’. Tips for the bulky monster: Don’t get tempted with the comfort cave and setting more protection. It makes more easier to turn around, but do consider the potential risk.
Show beta
βeta: Make sure you have set some solid protection before you reach the crumbling flake. Afterwards, you start to jam your body upward. You may have found that it is hard to find solid protection. Nevertheless, you know you won’t fall as you jammed your body ‘comfortably’ in the crack. After setting a cam(green) on the left, you have to decide whether you should go further inside for slightly solid protection in the cave with a decent position for resting and turn around or give it a push, runout for 5 m and climb over to reach the anchor of ‘Mad Dogs F6A’. Tips for the bulky monster: Don’t get tempted with the comfort cave and setting more protection. It makes more easier to turn around, but do consider the potential risk.

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