270m, 6 pitches. superb crack at French 5b, then ungradable chimney, easyish but unprotected. The first part of the route is well worth doing.

Ticklists: Classic Valle dell'Orco Cracks.

FlavioL1989 19/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Gloria 13/Aug/16 -

Brilliant birthday climb, second part of the route not great and abandoned feeling. An 'unforgettable' chimney.

with Eric Pieuchot
Tubs 10/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First four pitches only. Did the original route up the awesome airy chimney - well worth doing this way.

with Naomi
Andy Peak 1 28/Jul/16 AltLd

First pitch alternate 3rd pich up the lay away corner (wacky ) tuff move at the end , Geoff led the English 5b/c crux pitch and after a mild route reading error smashed it:-)

with Geff
druss 06/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Completed the first 2 pitches to find the slab and corner roof wet. Started to rain again so abseiled and went sight seeing. What we did was really good climbing.

Hidden ?/Jun/16 AltLd
daxtari 03/Nov/15 AltLd dog
Dave Rumney 31/Aug/15 AltLd


Hidden 22/Jul/15 AltLd
PeteWilson 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

2nd to last pitch was my favourite, traverse to the chimney terrifying! should have done the 5c variation as traverse and chimney aren't very good.

with James
augustus trout 26/May/15 AltLd dnf
with Pete Wilson
Dr Toph 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Good old fashioned route, swung leads with Seb, who took the harder pitches including the curving corner variation (UK5bish) on P3. Good to see there are no bolts aside from the belay anchors. Worth continuing above the terrace, P5 and 6 are cool.

with Seb
James Thacker 06/Sep/14 -
stuart34 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with dave glad-a-saurous-rex
brockers 05/Aug/14 Lead

Chimney pitch was terrifying! And wet. Second part above the ledge was 't that hard to find. Crux pitch was really very good, thin finger lay-back up a steep and difficult corner.

edek_w 14/Jul/14 -
with Blazej
Hidden 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Alex@home 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
AJM 27/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Shame it's broken by ledges and stuff because the good climbing is really very good. Did the 5c Diedre variation instead of the easy squeeze. Finished on an anchor just below the "variation over a bolted roof out left" since it's currently unbolted.

maria85 01/Sep/13 AltLd

Brilliant route, though a pity about the midway ledge. Slipped off on the 6a pitch, gutted! Got it 2nd go. 5c variation pitch lower down is worth it (especially if you don't like chimneys...)

with Jules
Lenny 30/Aug/13 Lead
with John
GLO 15/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Second part of the route is the hard part at F6b (finger crack then handjam). All belays bolted.

with Alberto Fantone, Tommaso Regesta
etrillaud ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
astrange 22/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
French Erick 30/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
TomPR ?/Jul/08 -
French Erick 12/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Antonio Ferra
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High E3
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