Rockfax Description
A classic route which follows a series of stepped ledges up the northeast arete. There is some loose rock (beware of rocks falling from parties above) with numerous possible lines staying left of the arete itself. There are plenty of pegs but, given the multiple variations, these are not always where you want them to be so be prepared to build/backup belays and protection.
Start 10m to the left of the line of the arete, just left of a plaque.
1) III, 20m. Climb a crack, just left of the plaque, then bear right to a small ledge.
2) IV, 45m. Move left to a crack and climb this, trending left to a wider crack. Climb this vertically and step left to a stance.
3) IV, 30m. Traverse 5m left on the ledge to a chimney-crack. Climb this direct then move right to a ledge.
4) IV, 40m. Climb a crack to reach a scree ledge. Cross this and continue to a higher ledge, and follow this right towards the arete.
5) III+, 40m. Climb just left of the arete, avoiding a small roof on its right. Move left above this to a small terrace.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left to reach a crack about 30m left of the arete and follow this before moving back right.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow the line of the arete, staying just on the left side, following numerous pegs to reach a ledge.
8) III+, 30m. Make moves towards the arete and cross onto the right side. Stay on this side briefly before crossing back left on a ledge.
9) IV-, 60m. Move left to reach a shallow gully of pale rock. Climb this right to a ledge.
10) III+, 40m. Continue over a series of stepped ledges, staying left of the arete.
11) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line up a series of vague ledges and rocky buttresses to a good ledge.
12) IV, 45m. Follow the ledge left to a vague flake. Follow this back right then continue direct up more stepped ledges to a chimney-gully.
13) III, 40m. Climb the chimney-gully (many possible lines either side) to reach the Ringband Terrace.
The continuation to the lower summit is not recommended, as the rock is dangerous and loose. For those who wish to reach the summit it is better to traverse the Ringband Terrace left to reach the Normal Route (see page 456) and follow this to the summit. © Rockfax

A.Dibona, E. Stubler 1909

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Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
caparros 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Ale
with Ale
Hidden 15 Oct, 2017 2nd
afterthesend 7 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
pymn nice but dim ??, 2017 Lead O/S
zeitoun 22 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Magnificent historical route with fantastic scenery. 1 hour approach from the Auronzo hut. 5 1/2 hours on the route. 2 hours descente by the normal route.
with Kurt S.
Magnificent historical route with fantastic scenery. 1 hour approach from the Auronzo hut. 5 1/2 hours on the route. 2 hours descente by the normal route.
with Kurt S.
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 Lead
Hidden 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2016 Lead
Debbie Lee 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd Being in such an amazing location really made the day, the views are spectacular especially from the summit. So much loose rock detracted from the climbing a bit.
with MrRiley
Being in such an amazing location really made the day, the views are spectacular especially from the summit. So much loose rock detracted from the climbing a bit.
with MrRiley
MrRiley 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Like climbing on egg shells for 500m, more loose rock than i've ever experienced on a route, 10 teams on it so felt a bit like Russian Roullette at times... That said, great situations and stunning views plus we shared the route with top blokes Adrian and Gwain which made it very sociable. Summiting was incredible. Descent absolutely fine until the very last section when we got stuck behind dangerously incompetent climbers knocking huge rocks off. We let two German lads share our abs as they only had one rope. It got dark while we waited so we abed an independent line missing the fixed anchors and building our own to get down. An annoying end to an overall amazing experience! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Like climbing on egg shells for 500m, more loose rock than i've ever experienced on a route, 10 teams on it so felt a bit like Russian Roullette at times... That said, great situations and stunning views plus we shared the route with top blokes Adrian and Gwain which made it very sociable. Summiting was incredible. Descent absolutely fine until the very last section when we got stuck behind dangerously incompetent climbers knocking huge rocks off. We let two German lads share our abs as they only had one rope. It got dark while we waited so we abed an independent line missing the fixed anchors and building our own to get down. An annoying end to an overall amazing experience! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
dan gibson 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd
kelliroberts3 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
stevethomas 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Heather
with Heather
Pete Rigby ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
DigitalSteak 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Sam Hunt 8 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
GregJones17 8 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Misleading guidebook - excellent information such as "follow the vague chimney ..."
Misleading guidebook - excellent information such as "follow the vague chimney ..."
RonnydeWeerd ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Great introduction to the Tre Cime!
with Daan Schone
Great introduction to the Tre Cime!
with Daan Schone
tcn_2002 1 Oct, 2011 Lead
Ed Saint 14 Aug, 2011 - An amazing, long route! Not really a ridge climb (only once did I see the famous North Face), just a really big face.
An amazing, long route! Not really a ridge climb (only once did I see the famous North Face), just a really big face.
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 2nd
Neil Adams ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
andyinglis ?Jun, 2004 -
with neil adams
with neil adams
pauldrew ?Jul, 1995 Lead
with Rohini Pande
with Rohini Pande
gergosantha ??, 1994 -
Peter Main 8 Aug, 1974 AltLd A day of rare beauty ending in a storm. We were down by 3pm, I have never seen such spectacular vertical scenery
with Fran Bashford
A day of rare beauty ending in a storm. We were down by 3pm, I have never seen such spectacular vertical scenery
with Fran Bashford
Bolt Phobia 29 Jul, 1974 Lead My first rock climb in the Alps. 40 odd years on, I can still hear the propellor-like noise made by the stonefall on those first three pitches. I never did a second Dolomite route; it was a wise decision, as there is so much good rock elsewhere. Unbelievable scenery though; we got benighted on the descent.
with Andrew Heuch
My first rock climb in the Alps. 40 odd years on, I can still hear the propellor-like noise made by the stonefall on those first three pitches. I never did a second Dolomite route; it was a wise decision, as there is so much good rock elsewhere. Unbelievable scenery though; we got benighted on the descent.
with Andrew Heuch
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