Rockfax Description
A classic route which follows a series of stepped ledges up the northeast arete. There is some loose rock (beware of rocks falling from parties above) with numerous possible lines staying left of the arete itself. There are plenty of pegs but, given the multiple variations, these are not always where you want them to be so be prepared to build/backup belays and protection.
Start 10m to the left of the line of the arete, just left of a plaque.
1) III, 20m. Climb a crack, just left of the plaque, then bear right to a small ledge.
2) IV, 45m. Move left to a crack and climb this, trending left to a wider crack. Climb this vertically and step left to a stance.
3) IV, 30m. Traverse 5m left on the ledge to a chimney-crack. Climb this direct then move right to a ledge.
4) IV, 40m. Climb a crack to reach a scree ledge. Cross this and continue to a higher ledge, and follow this right towards the arete.
5) III+, 40m. Climb just left of the arete, avoiding a small roof on its right. Move left above this to a small terrace.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left to reach a crack about 30m left of the arete and follow this before moving back right.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow the line of the arete, staying just on the left side, following numerous pegs to reach a ledge.
8) III+, 30m. Make moves towards the arete and cross onto the right side. Stay on this side briefly before crossing back left on a ledge.
9) IV-, 60m. Move left to reach a shallow gully of pale rock. Climb this right to a ledge.
10) III+, 40m. Continue over a series of stepped ledges, staying left of the arete.
11) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line up a series of vague ledges and rocky buttresses to a good ledge.
12) IV, 45m. Follow the ledge left to a vague flake. Follow this back right then continue direct up more stepped ledges to a chimney-gully.
13) III, 40m. Climb the chimney-gully (many possible lines either side) to reach the Ringband Terrace.
The continuation to the lower summit is not recommended, as the rock is dangerous and loose. For those who wish to reach the summit it is better to traverse the Ringband Terrace left to reach the Normal Route (see page 456) and follow this to the summit. © Rockfax

A.Dibona, E. Stubler 1909

Hidden 15/Oct/17 2nd
afterthesend 07/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
zeitoun 22/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Magnificent historical route with fantastic scenery. 1 hour approach from the Auronzo hut. 5 1/2 hours on the route. 2 hours descente by the normal route.

with Kurt S.
Pohil 14/Sep/16 Lead
with Alexei Smirnov
Hidden 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/16 Lead
Debbie Lee 24/Aug/16 AltLd

Being in such an amazing location really made the day, the views are spectacular especially from the summit. So much loose rock detracted from the climbing a bit.

MrRiley 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Like climbing on egg shells for 500m, more loose rock than i've ever experienced on a route, 10 teams on it so felt a bit like Russian Roullette at times... That said, great situations and stunning views plus we shared the route with top blokes Adrian and Gwain which made it very sociable. Summiting was incredible. Descent absolutely fine until the very last section when we got stuck behind dangerously incompetent climbers knocking huge rocks off. We let two German lads share our abs as they only had one rope. It got dark while we waited so we abed an independent line missing the fixed anchors and building our own to get down. An annoying end to an overall amazing experience!

dan gibson 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 05/Aug/16 AltLd
kelliroberts3 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
stevethomas 04/Aug/16 AltLd
with Heather
Pete Rigby ?/Aug/16 AltLd
DigitalSteak 09/Aug/15 AltLd
Sam Hunt 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
GregJones17 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Misleading guidebook - excellent information such as "follow the vague chimney ..."

RonnydeWeerd ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great introduction to the Tre Cime!

with Daan Schone
tcn_2002 01/Oct/11 Lead
Ed Saint 14/Aug/11 -

An amazing, long route! Not really a ridge climb (only once did I see the famous North Face), just a really big face.

Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd
Neil Adams ?/Jun/04 AltLd
andyinglis ?/Jun/04 -
with neil adams
gergosantha ??/1994 -
Peter Main 08/Aug/74 AltLd

A day of rare beauty ending in a storm. We were down by 3pm, I have never seen such spectacular vertical scenery

with Fran Bashford
Bolt Phobia 29/Jul/74 Lead

My first rock climb in the Alps. 40 odd years on, I can still hear the propellor-like noise made by the stonefall on those first three pitches. I never did a second Dolomite route; it was a wise decision, as there is so much good rock elsewhere. Unbelievable scenery though; we got benighted on the descent.

with Andrew Heuch
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High V-
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High IV+
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High IV
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Votes cast 4
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Alt Leads
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