40m.
An absolute gem of a climb. The rock is excellent, gear bomber and superb position.
Climbs the clean prominent crack that bypasses the equally prominent big rectangular roof.
Start below the crack and scramble up to a turf ledge where the climbing proper starts. The crack at the base is little more than a groove but has bomber gear from the off. Awkward moves up gain access to the crack and a sloping granite ledge. A small patch of deteriorated granite is present starting up but this is on the right side and is bypassed on the left.
From the sloping ledge the way is obvious. The crack is wide here but closes in quickly. Layback up the crack to a semi rest. The crack now steepens and passes a couple of bulges before relenting and a small ledge is reached. Finish easily up the clean rib on the left.
Note : A good hex belay (Unsuitable for a cam) can be found in a alcove up and right from the top. The crack tapers behind so will take mid to a big hex.
Climbs the clean prominent crack that bypasses the equally prominent big rectangular roof.
Start below the crack and scramble up to a turf ledge where the climbing proper starts. The crack at the base is little more than a groove but has bomber gear from the off. Awkward moves up gain access to the crack and a sloping granite ledge. A small patch of deteriorated granite is present starting up but this is on the right side and is bypassed on the left.
From the sloping ledge the way is obvious. The crack is wide here but closes in quickly. Layback up the crack to a semi rest. The crack now steepens and passes a couple of bulges before relenting and a small ledge is reached. Finish easily up the clean rib on the left.
Note : A good hex belay (Unsuitable for a cam) can be found in a alcove up and right from the top. The crack tapers behind so will take mid to a big hex.
Fraser McKie, Ruairidh McKie 30/Jul/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fmck | 8 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Please avoid touching or rope interfering with small Rowan tree at initial scramble to turf ledge. Belay to right to avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Please avoid touching or rope interfering with small Rowan tree at initial scramble to turf ledge. Belay to right to avoid. |
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| fmck | 3 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gear : Mid size hexes Camalots 2 , 3 and a 4 is handy but not essential. A bomber rock 8 at start. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Gear : Mid size hexes Camalots 2 , 3 and a 4 is handy but not essential. A bomber rock 8 at start. |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Route of Interest
Filing in the Blanks
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Rosa Slabs)