4m. Top section only: Lower off from top, just to right of crack (looking at face). Do not attempt to climb from ground start. Starting with right hand in large letterbox pocket and left hand on decent horizontal grip to left, pull up to rounded bulging grip for left hand. Pull up to rounded edge with right hand and grab decent protruding ledge hold with left hand. Match hands and hand traverse a little further left to better holds and pull powerfully onto ledge. Nice moves in a picturesque and exciting position. A flowing dynamic style helps.

2024-08-18 DANGER UPDATE: Experimentation with ropes at start of route indicate a very nasty ground fall, swinging into boulders from a large height due to top rope positioning and starting on high ledge. Looks like a few reasonably strenuous moves are required on holds which may snap before exiting cave before safe height and angle is achieved. Therefore, starting route from ground CANNOT be recommended. Original dangerous route description: Start inside the left hand side of cave and hand traverse the overhang ledge to exit cave. Continue outside leftwards along ledge until holds become much worse. Bridge gap between large pocket and positive hand traverse ledge of Scary Gargoyle with rounded grip and rounded edges. A flowing dynamic style may help. Route climbed with one rest but never sent. 8 meters. 7a+ / 5.12a?

James Coleman 16/Aug/2024.

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