55m.
Finds a way up thin cracks and grooves in the wall left of Second Coming.
Start 6m left of Second Coming at a large block abutting the wall. Step left off the block and up via a short groove and some crumbly ledges to the start of the obvious thin crack line. Follow this trending leftwards to reach a thin flake ledge and double bolts at 25m (possible belay, or better pull the rope through to reduce drag). Continue a few metres to where the crack ends then finger traverse the slanting break right to a steep groove. Up this to an overhang then make a blind traverse right around a rib into a short groove. Climb the groove onto a steep slab and tiptoe right on a thin break till a pull up via a drill hole leads to a good ledge. Finish more easily up to the right.
Start 6m left of Second Coming at a large block abutting the wall. Step left off the block and up via a short groove and some crumbly ledges to the start of the obvious thin crack line. Follow this trending leftwards to reach a thin flake ledge and double bolts at 25m (possible belay, or better pull the rope through to reduce drag). Continue a few metres to where the crack ends then finger traverse the slanting break right to a steep groove. Up this to an overhang then make a blind traverse right around a rib into a short groove. Climb the groove onto a steep slab and tiptoe right on a thin break till a pull up via a drill hole leads to a good ledge. Finish more easily up to the right.
P. Whillance, K. Phizacklea 18/Aug/2024.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JamesAlexanderTurnbull | 10 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Double ropes are useful to manage rope drag. Possible to back clean some of the bolts too to help with this or if you don’t have enough draws. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Double ropes are useful to manage rope drag. Possible to back clean some of the bolts too to help with this or if you don’t have enough draws. |
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Route of Interest
Rebel Alliance
Grade: 7b ***
(Hodge Close Quarry)