900m, 18 pitches. Lots of wide cracks. The description in the Russian guide is unclear/has errors. For ‘R5-R8’ (pitches 6-8): The described bivvi ledge is at the top of pitch 7. There are two narrow ledges for one person each. There is also a huge jammed stone here but this is NOT the one described as being like the bow of a boat. There is also another ledge for two people in the chimney to the right and a few meters down of this jammed stone. The jammed block mentioned in the guide is a further three pitches from here - when you get to a belay with a jammed wire and (currently) a blue sling, climb the broken corner on the right and you will see the jammed boat shaped block above you. The pitch climbing up to, under, and squeezing past this is the crux, you will know you are right because it is marked by many pegs, some with white slings on them. At the top of this pitch is a nice bolted belay and a great bivvi ledge. This pitch should be in the guide as R10-R11 and the following pitches numbered so on and so forth. It’s 2 pitches from the top of the climbing to the summit R16-‘roof’. To descend, scramble to the summit then head along the summit ridge roughly towards 1000 years. After around 100m abseil off towards the base camp using the obvious tat. After between 5-7 abseils (depending on which stations you use) a higher slab will begin to from on your left (looking up, pik 4810 side). Make diagonal abseils onto this and eventually down to a point where you can scramble down onto the shoulder. Scramble down to a large cairn, just below this you will find abseil tat to descend into the described ‘bowl of pik 4810’. It’s about 7 abseils from here into the bowl.

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