180m, 6 pitches.
6c RS2/II (5c/A1 obb.)
The first route on this crag, the beginning of a new era in the valley. It exploits mainly the big corner of the crag on the left of the big roof of the "Naso". Then it escapes between the upper walls with a pendulum, finishing with a strenuous crack, a compendium of the best 60s climbing techniques.
Attack in common with "Via del naso" and "Via dei cunei".
P1. Slab (6a).
P2. Climb the crack on the left (start descending a few steps) up to a short overhang, where the crack widenes. Continue in the crack above (6b or A1).
P3. Climb the wall above up to the big roof (V). There is also the possibility of continueing a few moves on the left to reach a tree and be more confortable in belaying the next pitch.
P4. Blocks towards left, overhang with crack in a shallow diehdral, then short wall (with spit). Belay at the base of the main diehdral (6b or A1).
P5. Directly the main diehdral, then harder cracked smaller diehdrals and walls on the left up to a big ledge (6b or A1).
P6. This is the pitch of the famous pendulum which resolved the first ascent. Climb descending on the right heading up the spur of the "Naso". Pass it and reach the bolt equipped for the pendulum. The pendulum makes possible to reach a flake which easly lead to the next belay (V).
P7. A few meters on the slab, then traverse right to reach the belay below the overhanging final crack (III-IV).
P8. Climb the final crack (6c or A1).
There are a few variants for this route, described below.
Variant "Blatto-Ballo-Ghiani" (1999)
P5. Climb the main diehdral and then on the right with respect to the classic route (6a+) on a yellow wall. Useful a few pieces (in the range 0.4BD, to 0.75BD).
Variant "Amateis-Carena-Pecoraro"
P6. Directly in the obvious crack above the belay to the summit (6b+ or A2, clean climbing).
Variant "Gogna"
P7. As described for the "Via del naso", it is possible to avoid the final hard crack by climbing directly the slab in the center (6a).
Descent: Abseil on the "Via del naso".
The first route on this crag, the beginning of a new era in the valley. It exploits mainly the big corner of the crag on the left of the big roof of the "Naso". Then it escapes between the upper walls with a pendulum, finishing with a strenuous crack, a compendium of the best 60s climbing techniques.
Attack in common with "Via del naso" and "Via dei cunei".
P1. Slab (6a).
P2. Climb the crack on the left (start descending a few steps) up to a short overhang, where the crack widenes. Continue in the crack above (6b or A1).
P3. Climb the wall above up to the big roof (V). There is also the possibility of continueing a few moves on the left to reach a tree and be more confortable in belaying the next pitch.
P4. Blocks towards left, overhang with crack in a shallow diehdral, then short wall (with spit). Belay at the base of the main diehdral (6b or A1).
P5. Directly the main diehdral, then harder cracked smaller diehdrals and walls on the left up to a big ledge (6b or A1).
P6. This is the pitch of the famous pendulum which resolved the first ascent. Climb descending on the right heading up the spur of the "Naso". Pass it and reach the bolt equipped for the pendulum. The pendulum makes possible to reach a flake which easly lead to the next belay (V).
P7. A few meters on the slab, then traverse right to reach the belay below the overhanging final crack (III-IV).
P8. Climb the final crack (6c or A1).
There are a few variants for this route, described below.
Variant "Blatto-Ballo-Ghiani" (1999)
P5. Climb the main diehdral and then on the right with respect to the classic route (6a+) on a yellow wall. Useful a few pieces (in the range 0.4BD, to 0.75BD).
Variant "Amateis-Carena-Pecoraro"
P6. Directly in the obvious crack above the belay to the summit (6b+ or A2, clean climbing).
Variant "Gogna"
P7. As described for the "Via del naso", it is possible to avoid the final hard crack by climbing directly the slab in the center (6a).
Descent: Abseil on the "Via del naso".
C. Carena, G. C. Grassi, U. Manera Jan/1968.
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Route of Interest
Il sol dell'avvenir
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Parete dell'Elefante)