430m, 11 pitches.
L1 The route starts immediately with a pitch that requires decision, to tip over into the blind dihedral. The taller ones will be able to clip the only route piton left (evaluate its tightness). Continue to another dihedral not easy to protect (micro friend) and then reach a wider interlocking crack, to be tackled on layback, then bend to the left and reach the bolt belay. 30mt 6b+
L2 Make a step down, left, and by slab reach a slit dihedral slanting left, which has 3 short re-establishments, the third one (friend #3), to the right, allows you to reach a very slender blind crack that can only be protected with a micro friend. After that decision is required and a few steps in unprotected slab, it is one of the obligatory steps of the route, until the crack widens and becomes easier. When you reach a plant you protect yourself with a small friend and a traverse to the left allows you to reach another system of cracks that, coming out on the right of the grassy clumps allows the arrival at the belay. 40mt 6c
L3 Climb up the vertical of the belay and bend slightly to the right, near a little roof and a small plant, reach vertically a nice finger crack that is protected well with a "thread" and good wires, until a ledge mantle. Here a seemingly smooth dihedral presents itself, you can protect yourself with small wire and friend 0.2. Tipping all to be understood (medium friend on exit), then for about ten meters of easy cracks you reach belay. 45mt 6c+
L4 Grab the ledge on the right and by big holds rise up on it, then follow that ledge, a bit unprotected but not difficult, until in sight of a belay on the left, disregard it and bend right to a big boulder wedged between two cracks, follow the one on the right and overturn on the comfortable ledge above, belay and right of the two nice cracks. 35mt 6a
L5 Climb the obvious parallel cracks, also visible from the parking lot; a #4 friend may be useful, but not essential. Continue more easily up crack and blocks until you belay again on the edge. 25mt 6b
L6 Nice pitch on excellent rock, not difficult but somehow unprotected, R3. When you reach the nice slab in front, attack it on the left and gradually bend to the right, friend, until you reach the next vertical wall to your right. Protect yourself with a micro friend and a 0.3/0.4 and with a slab step overturn to the left on the beautiful “bugnun” wall. Continue unprotected in the direction of the only crack (friend), then bend right through a ledge and belay. 35mt 6a
L7 You are just under the beautiful wall full of cracks, of which in the course of the opening days some variants have already been climbed by the openers. Follow the crack immediately to the right of the belay and at its exhaustion do not continue in the obvious dihedral to the left (variant) but bend to the right in the direction of a cracked roof. Pass it and climb vertically, at a smooth wall traverse right again in the direction of the edge of the wall, which you then follow roughly trending left to the top of the cusp. Keep a 0.3 friend to use along with a bolt from the belay, wanting to be more comfortable on the ledge. Pay attention to the rope drag, use well your double ropes. 50mt 6b
L8 Approach the next wall, traversing the next ramp horizontally to make a proper belay to the lead climber, possible belay on boulders and friends. A few steps in the slab and then face directly the wall ahead, which initially has good foot holds and a few friend holes in the crack. However, decision is required for a few wall steps, obligatory. Bending slightly left and then right to reach a ledge, continue to exit left of the grassy mutts, always following the logic of good protections. The route may not be obvious, observe in advance from below the clean crack areas where you can protect yourself.
Finally topping out of difficulty, you reach the obvious belay characterized by a patch of red rock. This pitch, while not difficult, elevates the route's engagement. 60mt 6b+/6c
L9 Go around the edge to the right and by blocks reach a crack, rise and follow it always vertically until you reach the belay point. 30mt 5c
L10 Start left and make an arc to the right until nearby the small plant on the vertical of the belay. Follow an obvious crack straight up, once you reach the next wall continue vertically in the direction of the belay placed in a niche on a convenient ledge. 6a 45mt
L11 Climb slightly to the right of the belay, unprotected, and follow the edge until you reach a ledge of rhododendrons, pass it with a few arboreal steps and reach the top of the wall. The first rappel belay is on the right, bolts visible, on a giant granite blade. From here if you want you can walk to the gendarme clearly visible from the car. 35mt 6a
Descent
The descent is by rappel, with eight double ropes, using the belays connected with cord and quick link. Some are very long; pay attention to where you put your ropes and the length of the ropes as well. Non rappel belays are not connected.
Material
N.2 sets of BD cams up to n.2. One N. 3 BD cam and useful but not essential N. 4. Mandatory micro cams 0.1 and especially 0.2. A set of medium - small wires.
430mt - 6c+ max - 6b ob. III - R3
California Dreaming (Punta di Fioni) California Dreaming (Punta di Fioni)
L2 Make a step down, left, and by slab reach a slit dihedral slanting left, which has 3 short re-establishments, the third one (friend #3), to the right, allows you to reach a very slender blind crack that can only be protected with a micro friend. After that decision is required and a few steps in unprotected slab, it is one of the obligatory steps of the route, until the crack widens and becomes easier. When you reach a plant you protect yourself with a small friend and a traverse to the left allows you to reach another system of cracks that, coming out on the right of the grassy clumps allows the arrival at the belay. 40mt 6c
L3 Climb up the vertical of the belay and bend slightly to the right, near a little roof and a small plant, reach vertically a nice finger crack that is protected well with a "thread" and good wires, until a ledge mantle. Here a seemingly smooth dihedral presents itself, you can protect yourself with small wire and friend 0.2. Tipping all to be understood (medium friend on exit), then for about ten meters of easy cracks you reach belay. 45mt 6c+
L4 Grab the ledge on the right and by big holds rise up on it, then follow that ledge, a bit unprotected but not difficult, until in sight of a belay on the left, disregard it and bend right to a big boulder wedged between two cracks, follow the one on the right and overturn on the comfortable ledge above, belay and right of the two nice cracks. 35mt 6a
L5 Climb the obvious parallel cracks, also visible from the parking lot; a #4 friend may be useful, but not essential. Continue more easily up crack and blocks until you belay again on the edge. 25mt 6b
L6 Nice pitch on excellent rock, not difficult but somehow unprotected, R3. When you reach the nice slab in front, attack it on the left and gradually bend to the right, friend, until you reach the next vertical wall to your right. Protect yourself with a micro friend and a 0.3/0.4 and with a slab step overturn to the left on the beautiful “bugnun” wall. Continue unprotected in the direction of the only crack (friend), then bend right through a ledge and belay. 35mt 6a
L7 You are just under the beautiful wall full of cracks, of which in the course of the opening days some variants have already been climbed by the openers. Follow the crack immediately to the right of the belay and at its exhaustion do not continue in the obvious dihedral to the left (variant) but bend to the right in the direction of a cracked roof. Pass it and climb vertically, at a smooth wall traverse right again in the direction of the edge of the wall, which you then follow roughly trending left to the top of the cusp. Keep a 0.3 friend to use along with a bolt from the belay, wanting to be more comfortable on the ledge. Pay attention to the rope drag, use well your double ropes. 50mt 6b
L8 Approach the next wall, traversing the next ramp horizontally to make a proper belay to the lead climber, possible belay on boulders and friends. A few steps in the slab and then face directly the wall ahead, which initially has good foot holds and a few friend holes in the crack. However, decision is required for a few wall steps, obligatory. Bending slightly left and then right to reach a ledge, continue to exit left of the grassy mutts, always following the logic of good protections. The route may not be obvious, observe in advance from below the clean crack areas where you can protect yourself.
Finally topping out of difficulty, you reach the obvious belay characterized by a patch of red rock. This pitch, while not difficult, elevates the route's engagement. 60mt 6b+/6c
L9 Go around the edge to the right and by blocks reach a crack, rise and follow it always vertically until you reach the belay point. 30mt 5c
L10 Start left and make an arc to the right until nearby the small plant on the vertical of the belay. Follow an obvious crack straight up, once you reach the next wall continue vertically in the direction of the belay placed in a niche on a convenient ledge. 6a 45mt
L11 Climb slightly to the right of the belay, unprotected, and follow the edge until you reach a ledge of rhododendrons, pass it with a few arboreal steps and reach the top of the wall. The first rappel belay is on the right, bolts visible, on a giant granite blade. From here if you want you can walk to the gendarme clearly visible from the car. 35mt 6a
Descent
The descent is by rappel, with eight double ropes, using the belays connected with cord and quick link. Some are very long; pay attention to where you put your ropes and the length of the ropes as well. Non rappel belays are not connected.
Material
N.2 sets of BD cams up to n.2. One N. 3 BD cam and useful but not essential N. 4. Mandatory micro cams 0.1 and especially 0.2. A set of medium - small wires.
430mt - 6c+ max - 6b ob. III - R3
California Dreaming (Punta di Fioni) California Dreaming (Punta di Fioni)
Filippo Ghilardini, Alessandro Zuccon, Martina Mastria 20/Jun/2020.
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Route of Interest
Jedi Master
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Sergent)