150m, 4 pitches.
150m, II/R2+ 7a (6a obb.)
single rack up to #3, double #1 and #2
P1. Ascend the ramp on the left (or better climb a crack just on the left of the ramp) and commit to an hard move to pass the overhang (bolt, harder for shorter). Then follow a crack pass a second bolt and finish on a delicate slab traversing left (6a/+).
P2. Amazing crack, up to a short wall on the left, on big triangle block. The anchor is passed the block right on the edge of the spur, between the two faces. It is possible to finish the crack that goes right to a big ledge and then traverse toward left on an easy break. Do not belay on the anchor at the center of the slab (it is an abseil belay) (5c).
P3. Slab with two bolts and a few other placement, really beatiful (5a).
P4. Hard boulder right above the belay (one bolt) then easier up to the top (7a).
It is possible to finish the route climbing the last pitch of "Ultimo Volo", on the right to keep the grades affordable.
single rack up to #3, double #1 and #2
P1. Ascend the ramp on the left (or better climb a crack just on the left of the ramp) and commit to an hard move to pass the overhang (bolt, harder for shorter). Then follow a crack pass a second bolt and finish on a delicate slab traversing left (6a/+).
P2. Amazing crack, up to a short wall on the left, on big triangle block. The anchor is passed the block right on the edge of the spur, between the two faces. It is possible to finish the crack that goes right to a big ledge and then traverse toward left on an easy break. Do not belay on the anchor at the center of the slab (it is an abseil belay) (5c).
P3. Slab with two bolts and a few other placement, really beatiful (5a).
P4. Hard boulder right above the belay (one bolt) then easier up to the top (7a).
It is possible to finish the route climbing the last pitch of "Ultimo Volo", on the right to keep the grades affordable.
M. Blatto, U. Gabrielli, A. Galizia, R. Rivelli Aug/2004.
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Route of Interest
Una Bellissima Avventura
Grade: 7a ***
(Nido Del Merlo)