Rockfax Description
A good route with some bold climbing both below and above its lone bolt. Climb the more featured rock just right of Slippery People until there is a committing move to clip the bolt. Climb past this to gain the crack and some gear. Move slightly right towards the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The slab to the right of Slippery People, one mocking bolt shows the way. Easy climbing gains the bolt, harder climbing leaves it, until some resting holds allow a cluster of dubious gear (the "bomber" RP is very shallow). Careful climbing leads to the top. E4 in the new guide which is not correct.

Chris Davies, Dec/1989

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North Wales Rock Graded List

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Longsufferingropeholder 30 Mar TR O/S Nope. Not for me.
Nope. Not for me.
Hidden 4 Dec, 2018 Lead RP
Adam John Haynes 6 Oct, 2018 TR Top roped to the start of the final crack.
with Nick, Vito
Top roped to the start of the final crack.
with Nick, Vito
JimHolmes69 24 Mar, 2018 Lead RP
AndyPratt88 24 Mar, 2018 2nd
JackM92 24 Feb, 2018 TR On the shunt. Really good moves, not too bad reaching the bolt. Possibly should have saved it for the O/S but feeling ready to lead it now.
On the shunt. Really good moves, not too bad reaching the bolt. Possibly should have saved it for the O/S but feeling ready to lead it now.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Archie ball 20 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S A bit soft
with Dad
A bit soft
with Dad
BenRyle 8 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Steady climbing. A few good cam placements above bolt (neglected to take any) and the odd peenut/rp.
with Ian Grobowski
Steady climbing. A few good cam placements above bolt (neglected to take any) and the odd peenut/rp.
with Ian Grobowski
James-m-h 4 Feb, 2017 TR dog Dropped the bottom for no reason at all felt solid on the rest should have just lowered to the ground cause so I could've logged it as clean
Dropped the bottom for no reason at all felt solid on the rest should have just lowered to the ground cause so I could've logged it as clean
ianstevens 4 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Two rounds on top rope then went for it. Awesome and just the right amount of scary, despite very nearly dropping the top due to poor footwork (although seeing the comments below I wouldn't have been the first). Small-ish nut and cam after the bolt, had little faith in the nut but cam looked ok. No idea where the RPs are meant to go!
Two rounds on top rope then went for it. Awesome and just the right amount of scary, despite very nearly dropping the top due to poor footwork (although seeing the comments below I wouldn't have been the first). Small-ish nut and cam after the bolt, had little faith in the nut but cam looked ok. No idea where the RPs are meant to go!
Mike Hewitt 2 Jan, 2017 2nd dog
JendeHoxar 2 Jan, 2017 Lead G/U
ianstevens 27 Nov, 2016 TR O/S Flashed on TR as I wanted to check out the moves to the bolt and the gear on the upper section. Couldn't muster the balls required to lead it. Will be back!
with Matt Peacey
Flashed on TR as I wanted to check out the moves to the bolt and the gear on the upper section. Couldn't muster the balls required to lead it. Will be back!
with Matt Peacey
Felix la shat 31 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with Dad
with Dad
Neilaw 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sean
with Sean
tim.fairhall 12 May, 2016 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 12 May, 2016 Lead O/S I only got on this because it said E4 in the GroundUp slate guide. Bit of a dangerous misprint really! I found the route super sustained, with multiple sections as hard as the crux of Slug Club Special, and way more scary/bigger fall potential. Didn't bother taking any gear, which made the last hard section absolutely terrifying. My first E5, onsight, on the first day of the first trip of the year. Chuffed isn't the word :)
I only got on this because it said E4 in the GroundUp slate guide. Bit of a dangerous misprint really! I found the route super sustained, with multiple sections as hard as the crux of Slug Club Special, and way more scary/bigger fall potential. Didn't bother taking any gear, which made the last hard section absolutely terrifying. My first E5, onsight, on the first day of the first trip of the year. Chuffed isn't the word :)
james.slater 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Abbed to look for gear below the bolt, and practise the moves. Its not too hard around the bolt and i found some gear below it. Led placing all gear.
Abbed to look for gear below the bolt, and practise the moves. Its not too hard around the bolt and i found some gear below it. Led placing all gear.
Alex Mason 12 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Quite scary above bolt. Climbing never too hard but committing feeling.
Quite scary above bolt. Climbing never too hard but committing feeling.
jacob shieldhouse hadley 30 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S really good, good rps and medium/small cam!
with sol ammer
really good, good rps and medium/small cam!
with sol ammer
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead G/U
climbingpixie 25 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Pagan
with Pagan
Scott Quinn 16 May, 2015 Lead dnf cant believe it, I dropped the final move....the last bloody move! pretty big fall onto the large & bomber RP, run out to the bolt is simple on small positive edges above the bolt its sustained but easy 6a still don't believe I fell on the last move.....robbed! abbed for gear still got the g/u for next time ..... not e5 in a million years
cant believe it, I dropped the final move....the last bloody move! pretty big fall onto the large & bomber RP, run out to the bolt is simple on small positive edges above the bolt its sustained but easy 6a still don't believe I fell on the last move.....robbed! abbed for gear still got the g/u for next time ..... not e5 in a million years
Hidden 10 Mar, 2015 Lead β
soph 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Slate guide gives this and 'remain in light' same grade but this felt at least a grade harder than 'remain in light' to me. Got bit scared!
with Brian McAlinden
Slate guide gives this and 'remain in light' same grade but this felt at least a grade harder than 'remain in light' to me. Got bit scared!
with Brian McAlinden
tim newton 14 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Both the unprotected moves and the hardest moves are easier than the equivalent unprotected and hard moves on slug club. Whether that makes this E4 or Slug Club E5 for the onsight, I don't know.
Both the unprotected moves and the hardest moves are easier than the equivalent unprotected and hard moves on slug club. Whether that makes this E4 or Slug Club E5 for the onsight, I don't know.
wolf.leeb 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Returned to finish the job.. Its ok when you know what to expect.. Marginal gear above bolt.
with Alexis, jo
Returned to finish the job.. Its ok when you know what to expect.. Marginal gear above bolt.
with Alexis, jo
wolf.leeb 1 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf E5
with Huw
E5
with Huw
dominic lee 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
willoates 8 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S not to bad, just didn't want to fall off onto anything apart from the bolt (it might have held though)
with Iona, Lotta
not to bad, just didn't want to fall off onto anything apart from the bolt (it might have held though)
with Iona, Lotta
Lotte Stuer 8 Feb, 2012 2nd cold!
cold!
Blurgy319 17 Aug, 2011 2nd dnf
with Andy
with Andy
centurion05 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Nice route, first e5 onsight but it didnt feel e5. Easier than slug club in my opinion
Nice route, first e5 onsight but it didnt feel e5. Easier than slug club in my opinion
feilx 9 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
vertically_challenged 8 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S took me a while to get to the top but got there in the end! not sure any of the gear after the bolt would have held but still made it easier to commit.
took me a while to get to the top but got there in the end! not sure any of the gear after the bolt would have held but still made it easier to commit.
Luke Brooks 6 May, 2011 Lead O/S Didn't see many rp placements but a few small cams. Great climbing, much better than it looks.
with Konrad Doyle
Didn't see many rp placements but a few small cams. Great climbing, much better than it looks.
with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
JulesV 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
smallerrich 12 May, 2009 Lead dnf Bailed after going a few moves past the bolt, by down climbing then lowering
with JDSwain
Bailed after going a few moves past the bolt, by down climbing then lowering
with JDSwain
JDSwain 12 May, 2009 2nd
Ed Booth 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S Nice. Maybe soft E5 or am i getting better??
with fennerz
Nice. Maybe soft E5 or am i getting better??
with fennerz
Hidden 14 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
barni 9 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Shoulders
with Shoulders
Hidden ??, 2006 TR O/S
p.crooky#1 24 Aug, 1999 TR
with Jamie, Jono, Ecca, Moz, Crotty
with Jamie, Jono, Ecca, Moz, Crotty
MjrTom ?May, 1998 TR RP
chrisdavies 23 Dec, 1989 Lead
with P.TARGETT
with P.TARGETT
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 23
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set