Rockfax Description
A good route with some bold climbing both below and above its lone bolt. Climb the more featured rock just right of Slippery People until there is a long reach in order to clip the bolt. Commit to climbing past this to then gain the crack and some gear. Move slightly right towards the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The slab to the right of Slippery People, one mocking bolt shows the way. Easy climbing gains the bolt, harder climbing leaves it, until some resting holds allow a cluster of dubious gear (the "bomber" RP is very shallow). Careful climbing leads to the top. E4 in the new guide which is not correct.

Chris Davies, Dec/1989

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Archie ball 20/Apr Lead O/S

A bit soft

with Dad
BenRyle 08/Mar Lead O/S

Steady climbing. A few good cam placements above bolt (neglected to take any) and the odd peenut/rp.

with Ian Grobowski
James-m-h 04/Feb TR dog

Dropped the bottom for no reason at all felt solid on the rest should have just lowered to the ground cause so I could've logged it as clean

ianstevens 04/Feb Lead RP

Two rounds on top rope then went for it. Awesome and just the right amount of scary, despite very nearly dropping the top due to poor footwork (although seeing the comments below I wouldn't have been the first). Small-ish nut and cam after the bolt, had little faith in the nut but cam looked ok. No idea where the RPs are meant to go!

Mike Hewitt 02/Jan 2nd dog
JenShelley 02/Jan Lead G/U
ianstevens 27/Nov/16 TR O/S

Flashed on TR as I wanted to check out the moves to the bolt and the gear on the upper section. Couldn't muster the balls required to lead it. Will be back!

with Matt Peacey
Felix la shat 31/Aug/16 Lead RP
Neilaw 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sean
tim.fairhall 12/May/16 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 12/May/16 Lead O/S

I only got on this because it said E4 in the GroundUp slate guide. Bit of a dangerous misprint really! I found the route super sustained, with multiple sections as hard as the crux of Slug Club Special, and way more scary/bigger fall potential. Didn't bother taking any gear, which made the last hard section absolutely terrifying. My first E5, onsight, on the first day of the first trip of the year. Chuffed isn't the word :)

with Tim
james.slater 25/Mar/16 Lead RP

The guidebook description coupled with no obvious gear from the ground led me to ab this route and try the moves. Its actually not too bad around the bolt and i found some gear below it. E5 for an onsight.

Alex Mason 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Quite scary above bolt. Climbing never too hard but committing feeling.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

really good, good rps and medium/small cam!

with sol ammer
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U
climbingpixie 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Andy
Scott Quinn 16/May/15 Lead dnf

cant believe it, I dropped the final move....the last bloody move! pretty big fall onto the large & bomber RP, run out to the bolt is simple on small positive edges above the bolt its sustained but easy 6a still don't believe I fell on the last move.....robbed! abbed for gear still got the g/u for next time ..... not e5 in a million years

Hidden 10/Mar/15 Lead β
soph 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Slate guide gives this and 'remain in light' same grade but this felt at least a grade harder than 'remain in light' to me. Got bit scared!

with Brian McAlinden
tim newton 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Both the unprotected moves and the hardest moves are easier than the equivalent unprotected and hard moves on slug club. Whether that makes this E4 or Slug Club E5 for the onsight, I don't know.

wolf.leeb 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Returned to finish the job.. Its ok when you know what to expect.. Marginal gear above bolt.

with Alexis, jo
wolf.leeb 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

E5

with Huw
dominic lee 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
willoates 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S

not to bad, just didn't want to fall off onto anything apart from the bolt (it might have held though)

with Iona, Lotta
Lotte Stuer 08/Feb/12 2nd

cold!

with Will
Blurgy319 17/Aug/11 2nd dnf
with Andy
centurion05 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, first e5 onsight but it didnt feel e5. Easier than slug club in my opinion

feilx 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Andy L
vertically_challenged 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S

took me a while to get to the top but got there in the end! not sure any of the gear after the bolt would have held but still made it easier to commit.

Luke Brooks 06/May/11 Lead O/S

Didn't see many rp placements but a few small cams. Great climbing, much better than it looks.

with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
JulesV 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
smallerrich 12/May/09 Lead dnf

Bailed after going a few moves past the bolt, by down climbing then lowering

with Swain16
JDSwain 12/May/09 2nd
Ed Booth 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Nice. Maybe soft E5 or am i getting better??

with Fennerz
Hidden 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
barni 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Shoulders
Hidden ??/2006 TR O/S
p.crooky#1 24/Aug/99 TR
with Jamie, Jono, Ecca, Moz, Crotty
MjrTom ?/May/98 TR RP
chrisdavies 23/Dec/89 Lead
with P.TARGETT
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set