UKC

160m, 5 pitches. Excellent route, with sustained climbing and long run-outs. Has fixed gear, but feels like hard E4 / low E5 to onsight. Take double ropes and a small rack with cams up to #3. Slightly vegetated for the first two pitches, but the final three are some of the best climbing anywhere. Start by scrambling up from the path to a fin of rock.

P1 (6a, 40m): Weave through the vegetation on clean rock, passing a couple of threads and two bolts. After the second bolt head straight up and slightly right to a single-bolt belay, which can be backed up with a thread.
P2 (IV+, 20m): Romp up the slab to the base of the headwall. One bolt shows the way. Can be combined with P1. Double bolt belay.
P3 (6c, 30m): Move up to the right then back left on fierce undercuts which lead with relief to a jug. Hand traverse back right before delicately ascending a crack to a double-bolt belay.
P4 (6c, 35m): Continue up the crack til it runs out. Lace the top of it with gear, then blast up the headwall, heading for lonely bolts that look a long way away. As the angle eases so does the climbing. A cracking pitch. Double bolt belay.
P5 (6b, 50m): An amazing varied pitch which features a fingery wall, a huge flake, a technical slab and a final bulge, all in one mighty 50m. Hard for the grade, as it doesn't let up til the very end. Double bolt belay just over the top.

Abseil off, or scramble up 20m to the Ruta de Cares hiking trail, for an easy 30mins stroll down to the road.

VĂ­ctor Sanchez 2020.

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Route of Interest
Leiva (to the amphitheatre)

Grade: 6c ***
(Naranjo de Bulnes)

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