UKC

180m, 7 pitches. Walk on the road from the gate (about 100 meters), then leave it and take a small path that branches off from the road in the left direction towards the stream just before a bend and enters the larch forest. Continue on the obvious and frequently signposted path with cairns for about 20 minutes, reaching a not very obvious crossroads marked with a cairn. Here leave the main path that turns to the right (directed to the sport sector "Falesia Belvedere di Fosse") and turn left towards a large scree. Cross the scree in the direction of the waterfall and at the end go up a slope of grass and rocks until you reach the base of the wall (45 minutes from the parking).

The route starts from the lowest point of the wall, under a line of roofs and black stripes, near 2 old pitons (cairn) and climbs immediately to the right of a vertical line starting from the roofs.

L1 - Climb up an easy ramp to the left on the left of the bolts, pass a short wall, then oblique right on a slab to the belay, 4c, 25 m
L2 - Oblique to the right ignoring the bolts that go straight up and climb a compact slab, overcome an overhang and reach the belay, 5c, 28 m
L3 - Ignore the bolts that go straight up and obliquely to the right on the slab towards a large vein of white quartz, overcome another overhang and reach a comfortable stop on the ledge, 5b, 27 m
L4 - Climb the well-worked vertical pillar, 5a, 25m
L5 - Continue directly along the vertical wall and reach the belay at a broken corner, 5c, 30 m
L6 - Traverse to the left to climb the dihedral, then for a short slab
and easy jumps and grass to reach a comfortable stop on the grassy ledge, 4a, 20 m. Shared belay with the "Via del Barba".
L7 - Climb to the right the compact and superb slab with small holds, then exit at the top, 5a, 25 m. Immediately on the right there is the fixed anchor for abseiling along the Via del Barba

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thealicepalace 21 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky to find the start, I didn't have any need for any extra protection between the bolts, though it is a little run out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky to find the start, I didn't have any need for any extra protection between the bolts, though it is a little run out.

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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Route of Interest
Senza Fine

Grade: 5c ***
(Paretina)

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