UKC

400m, 13 pitches. Starts to the left of Morzine Bl'Heros, at the top of the scree. The first and second pitches can remain wet for some time, these are the crux. They are very well protected. The equippers (Jean-Marie Recht / Jean-Pierre Bernard), set very short pitches, they have described 20! However it can be done in about 12, in which case you will need about 20 draws. In October 2024 11 new belays and chains have been added up until the described R15, at this point you can descend. I assume this will make it an 11 pitch route until this point. I recommend carrying on for 3 more pitches to the grassy finishing slopes, the walk out is fine and beats 10 tedious slabby abseils down.

There is an excellent description here https://www.chablaistopos.com/grande_voie/terres-maudites-le-vol-du-korbe/ and here https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56933/fr/tete-de-bossetan-les-terres-maudites-la-morzinoise-vol-du-korbe

Best done in a heatwave, probably in July or August!

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User Date Notes
endlessride 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: A sport climb at 5b or an Alpine face at D ? It feels like it should be categorised under a sport climb but if things go wrong it will quickly feel like an Alpine face. These climbs are long, there IS stone fall to worry about and don't get caught out in a storm. More than likely you will have a rucksack or 2, for water, food and possibly trainers for the walk off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A sport climb at 5b or an Alpine face at D ? It feels like it should be categorised under a sport climb but if things go wrong it will quickly feel like an Alpine face. These climbs are long, there IS stone fall to worry about and don't get caught out in a storm. More than likely you will have a rucksack or 2, for water, food and possibly trainers for the walk off.

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Guidebooks for Tête de Bossetan - Les Terres Maudites

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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Les Campanules

Grade: 5b ***
(La Duchère)

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