20m.
Deceptively steep. Blast through the zig-zagging horizontal cracks to a break. Place some small cams in the lightning bolt crack on the left. climb this to gain the clean face, traverse delicately rightwards towards the arete and a thread. A long reach gains another break (pegs). Either finish direct, or head left and take Andy's airy 'Thin White Duke' variation at the same grade.
Dan Wright; Andy Stewart 09/Nov/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan Wright | 10 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Please back up the thread with a cam around the back of the arete in a crack by your knee. Don't put a cam behind the flake with the thread on it... it's hollow (hence the thread)! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Please back up the thread with a cam around the back of the arete in a crack by your knee. Don't put a cam behind the flake with the thread on it... it's hollow (hence the thread)! |
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| Andy Stewart2 | 10 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good moves up and across the impending wall. Stays dry! Climbs Fragile to the crumbly break. Solid 5b. (5a in OTM GUIDE). Arrange gear in the thin crack in the steep headwall and then traverse the break at foot level to the arete (ledge shuffling), hands on techy sequency crimps. Long reach up the arete to a break and silver peg (Russian titanium?). Reach left for a hanging shelf in a wild position and gain a standing position on it (Thin White Duke finish) . Now survey the choss and choose your holds carefully to the top. Graded for unpredictable crumbly rock in places E5/6. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good moves up and across the impending wall. Stays dry! Climbs Fragile to the crumbly break. Solid 5b. (5a in OTM GUIDE). Arrange gear in the thin crack in the steep headwall and then traverse the break at foot level to the arete (ledge shuffling), hands on techy sequency crimps. Long reach up the arete to a break and silver peg (Russian titanium?). Reach left for a hanging shelf in a wild position and gain a standing position on it (Thin White Duke finish) . Now survey the choss and choose your holds carefully to the top. Graded for unpredictable crumbly rock in places E5/6. |
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Route of Interest
The Kraken
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Birchen Edge)