138m, 5 pitches.
An excellent mixed line. Requires good frozen turf.
Start at the foot of a short, steep wall with a thin crack running up it and a wider blocky groove on the right. A couple of meters left of central Gully.
P1. 18m 4 Climb the blocky, turfy groove to a wide ledge below the next rocky band and belay here.
P2. 40m 4 From the ledge, climb a groove on the left and continue up and over several short grooves and steps, staying left with a view of a gully down to the left until you reach another grassy platform below a short steep wall and a boulder to the left above the gully. Step onto the boulder and then make a tricky but well protected move up and right then back left to belay at the top of a turfy area before an arete.
P3. 30m 3 Move along the arete to a grassy ledge and climb a groove on the left to another larger grassy area. Move left to below an obvious crack, arrange good gear and make a short pull over onto a small slab and another large bay. Belay here.
P4. 25m 5 To the left is an easy looking wide gully. On the right is a steeper, shallow, turfy open chimney. Climb up a couple of meters to below a bulge. Step right and climb up on good hooks to a ledge with a hollow sounding spike and a good thread. From here step onto a knife edge boulder and make a turfy pull over the top to a large bay below a massive spike and the great tower on the right.
P5. 25m 6 Above is the great tower, broken by a wide groove filled with jammed blocks.
Climb the groove on the left for a couple of meters. Now make a wild move out right with good turfy hooks but poor feet to a crack. Now climb up to a small bulge with a groove on the right. Climb the groove (crux) and continue to the top of the tower.
scramble off the top along Bristly Ridge.
FA Eilir Davies-Hughes, Kasia Piatek, Finn Watts 12.2.2025
Start at the foot of a short, steep wall with a thin crack running up it and a wider blocky groove on the right. A couple of meters left of central Gully.
P1. 18m 4 Climb the blocky, turfy groove to a wide ledge below the next rocky band and belay here.
P2. 40m 4 From the ledge, climb a groove on the left and continue up and over several short grooves and steps, staying left with a view of a gully down to the left until you reach another grassy platform below a short steep wall and a boulder to the left above the gully. Step onto the boulder and then make a tricky but well protected move up and right then back left to belay at the top of a turfy area before an arete.
P3. 30m 3 Move along the arete to a grassy ledge and climb a groove on the left to another larger grassy area. Move left to below an obvious crack, arrange good gear and make a short pull over onto a small slab and another large bay. Belay here.
P4. 25m 5 To the left is an easy looking wide gully. On the right is a steeper, shallow, turfy open chimney. Climb up a couple of meters to below a bulge. Step right and climb up on good hooks to a ledge with a hollow sounding spike and a good thread. From here step onto a knife edge boulder and make a turfy pull over the top to a large bay below a massive spike and the great tower on the right.
P5. 25m 6 Above is the great tower, broken by a wide groove filled with jammed blocks.
Climb the groove on the left for a couple of meters. Now make a wild move out right with good turfy hooks but poor feet to a crack. Now climb up to a small bulge with a groove on the right. Climb the groove (crux) and continue to the top of the tower.
scramble off the top along Bristly Ridge.
FA Eilir Davies-Hughes, Kasia Piatek, Finn Watts 12.2.2025
Eilir Davies-Hughes, Kasia Piatek, Finn Watts 12/Feb/2025.
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Route of Interest
Route II
Grade: V 6 ***
(Glyder Fach)