UKC

60m, 2 pitches. (E4 5a, 6a) Two pitches out of a potential four from the base of the gulley to the summit. Abseil into the gulley 100m right of GGR(facing the crag) on a 100m ab line or prepare to build anchors as you go down. The route starts on a white low angled slab ledge about 30m up from the gulley floor. and 100m down from the top. Climb the slab and the pillar. A difficult mantle is followed by easier climbing to a ledge at the beginning of a corner. Belay here.
Pitch 2 starts up the corner until it becomes blocked. move out right and make hard moves on small edges (crux) to a large block where good gear can be placed. Move back left to the corner and continue boldly into the chimney above. Climb the chimney to a ledge below the roof and belay.



I plan to finish this route in May with two more pitches. I also hope to bolt the belay anchors as some of the gear leaves something to be desired. However, I am putting the route on peoples radars now as it is a fabulous line that should be in peoples summer wish lists. I will update this page when the extension happens

Fergus O'Brien 16/Mar/2025.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Surfs Up

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Lough Dan)

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