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UKClimbing Team

260m, 6 pitches. One of the best (and most popular) multipitches at the grade at Red Rocks. Great climbing all the way with interest in each pitch, to a nice summit view.

1) 5.7 Start from the large white flake and continue up the corner (3 bolts). Belay from slings tree.
2) 5.7 Start right up a ramp, then head left up the curving crack passing multiple stuck cams (possible crux). Large flake / chimney to belay from slings around tree above a cave.
3) 5.7 Pull over roof above belay about halfway from tree to corner. Climb a few moves up, then traverse into corner at first possible break. Climb corner to small roof, which is skirted slightly right. Before next roof, move up right to blocky trad belay.
4) 5.8 From belay, traverse above small roof to large ledge on left. Climb up to right-hand side of roof (possible bolt?). Place high gear, then step down and make delicate moves left out to arete, where exposure hits you in the face. Follow arete into corner (cam on lip of roof helps to stop rope drag), and up to small ledges and trad belay.
5) 5.8 Move up to bolt and trend right to corner (technical crux). Follow corner behind huge jammed boulder to trad belay on top of boulder.
6) 5.6 Exit right from belay, and wander up the (occasionally very run-out) slab to the right of the corner. Be careful - there's the possibility to get into serious trouble way above gear on this pitch.

Make sure to descend down to the left, rather than be fooled into moving down to the right early (this descent involves three abseils, and four hours).

Mike Gilbert, Joanne Urioste, Jorge Urioste May/1978

Ticklists

Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Daniontherocks 19 Nov, 2019 2nd
with evanc77
with evanc77
evanc77 19 Nov, 2019 Lead
milena 11 Nov, 2019 Lead O/S
with Hannah R
with Hannah R
apollo18 25 Jan, 2019 AltLd O/S Lovely route. Never run out or particularly exposed. We used a standard rack. No micros or anything fancy. 3rd and final pitches were a romp. Plenty of gear if you look for it including the final stretch. We didn't take our packs off for the chockstone pitch and regretted it! First pitch had a nippy bit but maybe that was just not being warmed up....
Lovely route. Never run out or particularly exposed. We used a standard rack. No micros or anything fancy. 3rd and final pitches were a romp. Plenty of gear if you look for it including the final stretch. We didn't take our packs off for the chockstone pitch and regretted it! First pitch had a nippy bit but maybe that was just not being warmed up....
1202alarm 25 Jan, 2019 AltLd
eleonora.calandra 9 Dec, 2018 -
disturbed_one51 20 Nov, 2018 AltLd Climbed pitches 1,3,5 Great fun especially pitch 1 and 5
Climbed pitches 1,3,5 Great fun especially pitch 1 and 5
Hidden 18 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
steveprice.exmouth 18 Mar, 2018 2nd
with Leo Woods, Pete Callaghan
with Leo Woods, Pete Callaghan
Hidden 31 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 26 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andy Fielding 19 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with Phyl Ponte
with Phyl Ponte
martinazando 19 May, 2017 Lead rpt with Ruth. Nice outing. Lead all.
with Ruth. Nice outing. Lead all.
Fragmod 22 Nov, 2016 Lead
rikh 4 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
auld al 2 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S pitch 5 description should be trend LEFT to corner. Also the gear is fine on this with bomber large cam for move to bolt and wires above bolt
pitch 5 description should be trend LEFT to corner. Also the gear is fine on this with bomber large cam for move to bolt and wires above bolt
Matt Reed 27 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Martin Bennett, Simon Fenna
with Martin Bennett, Simon Fenna
Martin Bennett 27 Oct, 2016 -
Slarti B 23 Oct, 2016 2nd Climbed with Joanne, FA as guide. She was a delightful companion and great to hear her stories. Wonderful climb with great variety; some very delicate slabby moves, laybacks and cracks .
with Joanne Urioste
Climbed with Joanne, FA as guide. She was a delightful companion and great to hear her stories. Wonderful climb with great variety; some very delicate slabby moves, laybacks and cracks .
with Joanne Urioste
Martin Bagshaw 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S A cool route, micronuts were useful. Probably around hvs. David lead the two 5.6 pitches and I ran the two 5.8 pitches together on one 70m rope.
with David Carrier
A cool route, micronuts were useful. Probably around hvs. David lead the two 5.6 pitches and I ran the two 5.8 pitches together on one 70m rope.
with David Carrier
Hidden 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
beckycoles 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd
with Si
with Si
Hidden ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P2,4,6
with Christine Cauble
Led P2,4,6
with Christine Cauble
carl_123 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Lenny 16 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Megan
with Megan
Hidden 11 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
PastyBoy84 10 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
with Matthew Bowsley
with Matthew Bowsley
m675bowsl 10 Feb, 2015 Lead
1poundSOCKS 26 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S I led P1, P3 and P5, Joe led P2, P4 and P6. Fantastic route, there can't be too many 5.8s better than this. The crux 5.8 pitches are no pushover for the grade.
I led P1, P3 and P5, Joe led P2, P4 and P6. Fantastic route, there can't be too many 5.8s better than this. The crux 5.8 pitches are no pushover for the grade.
Hidden 1 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Will AKA Dave ?Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
steve gould 13 Nov, 2013 AltLd
with cem
with cem
cem 13 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Wonderful! We joined it at p2, having opted to do Raindance as an alternative to p1. I led pitches 3 & 5 & Steve all the even numbered pitches.
Wonderful! We joined it at p2, having opted to do Raindance as an alternative to p1. I led pitches 3 & 5 & Steve all the even numbered pitches.
al99 2 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Epic!!
Epic!!
martinazando 2 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S lead P 1, 3, 5
with al99
lead P 1, 3, 5
with al99
cat22 26 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 24 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 (easier than 5.7+), P3 (about 5.5) and P5 (actually 5.8, but the crux is the move to the bolt, not with it below you). A great route, but the route descriptions (both the Handren and Supertopo ones) are awful at identifying the hard bits.
with dpmUK
Led P1 (easier than 5.7+), P3 (about 5.5) and P5 (actually 5.8, but the crux is the move to the bolt, not with it below you). A great route, but the route descriptions (both the Handren and Supertopo ones) are awful at identifying the hard bits.
with dpmUK
dpmUK 24 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 2,4,6.
Led 2,4,6.
benscarter ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with Kaori Carter
with Kaori Carter
Hidden 3 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Dale ?Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Best multi pitch I did at Red Rocks and Johny's favourite route of the trip, 4 stars. I linked the two 5.8 piches together with a big 60m pitch. The chimney at the top was a struggle with all that rope out and rope drag under the roof good fun.
with johny
Best multi pitch I did at Red Rocks and Johny's favourite route of the trip, 4 stars. I linked the two 5.8 piches together with a big 60m pitch. The chimney at the top was a struggle with all that rope out and rope drag under the roof good fun.
with johny
innes ?Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
SteveM 29 Sep, 2011 AltLd
kitkat78 29 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with SteveM
with SteveM
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
mop449 ?Jul, 2010 2nd
Brown ?Mar, 2010 Solo
with Solo
with Solo
Julesthe1st 25 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Andy Steiner
with Andy Steiner
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Pythonist 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S "Crux" for me - halfway up the second pitch offwidth/stem. Traverse under the roof on 4 is brilliant, and named crux on 5 was simple (but I guess that's just good Brit slab skills).
with Sarah Silverman
"Crux" for me - halfway up the second pitch offwidth/stem. Traverse under the roof on 4 is brilliant, and named crux on 5 was simple (but I guess that's just good Brit slab skills).
with Sarah Silverman
Luke Gilbert ?Nov, 2008 -
with Rob Albert
with Rob Albert
Hidden 26 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull ?Apr, 2008 Lead
with paul winder
with paul winder
dave o 5 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S
with JuliaH
with JuliaH
Hidden 5 Apr, 2005 2nd O/S
jcw ??, 2003 -
Hidden 10 Dec, 2002 AltLd
dan gibson ?Nov, 1999 AltLd O/S
with anthony prior, helen gibson
with anthony prior, helen gibson
Chris Ellis 22 Mar, 1998 AltLd
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Voting
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set