20m. The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower. Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Start a little way up the muddy gully at a block below and right of a cave entrance. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab to gain the obvious left-rising crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty rockover, utilising an obvious side pull, gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest of the slab on good edges and finish up the arête.

M Davies/S Coombes 07/Oct/2007


ClimberDateStyle
Trace 03/Sep 2nd
richardashe 02/Sep Lead O/S
with Pixie
Hidden 02/Sep 2nd
Nigel Coe 01/Sep Lead
DanJennings 14/Jul Lead O/S

Great fun, but hairy in the middle.

with Tom
TGHB 14/Jul 2nd O/S

Great lead by Dan and a fantastic finger jammy route, short but sweet.

67hours 04/Jul Lead O/S

Good gear, lots of nuts slots, solid rock. Excellent route at least one star!

with Rob Squires
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd
acer2012 01/Jul Lead O/S
JamesHarwood 01/Jul 2nd
markfromstoke 29/Jun 2nd
with Luke
Legs 22/Jun Lead O/S

Fun delicate stuff with a burly move to finish.

just one more 21/Jun Lead O/S

I wouldn't trust the gear on this one, pretty unstable

with rich h, Max B
beardy mike 04/May Lead
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Tom Harding
Hidden ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Tricky enough in the drizzle

Hidden 21/Aug/16 2nd
Kayan 21/Aug/16 Lead
Dan Wilcox 13/Aug/16 2nd
will_benfold 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
label 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
91dave 13/Aug/16 Lead rpt

First HVS! Very happy with the lead. Probably ran it out a little more than necessary. No gear between the overlap and the crack. Had to sprint through the crack or come off.

with Dan Wilcox
leland stamper 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with BU6330
The Ivanator 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Rob
Hidden 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead
Hexman 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Bit of Elvis leg ! Gear ok, top end HVS I'd say

Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Steve Bartle 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Pulse enhancing stuff. Take micros and small cams

with Ruth
Stanners 04/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 03/May/16 2nd O/S
Oliver Smaje 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd
petegunn 03/Apr/16 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
edmundro 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 2nd

Thought this was quite hard, but then I hadn't read the description and didn't realise I was supposed to stand in the crack.

Robin Woodward 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb with some good variety. Not sure the side-pull was that obvious to Jenny or I, and came a bit to late when I stumbled across it, seemed to manage OK without it however.

Jenny Dart 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Robin
markfromstoke 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Adrian, Steve N
Fatclimber 01/Aug/15 2nd β
The Ivanator 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Quite good for a route with no stars at FCQ. The moves to access and climb the diagonal crack are fun.

with Steve W
cpoad 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Clare F
91dave 07/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
Ejminee 29/May/15 2nd
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/15 TR
abtibbs 19/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Came off due to pump at the crack traverse

with Jack Verber
crater 27/Oct/14 2nd
with steve
Steve Woollard 27/Oct/14 Lead

Nice little route

with Donald
katiep 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Callan
Echna 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
callans 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Lovely climb on pretty solid rock for the 'cave!

Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd
BBEENN 18/Aug/14 TR
upontop 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd β

Cameron had to tell me to get back on the line when I veered a little left. Didn't feel too bad, though.

Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
felixizzy 05/May/14 Lead O/S
betathief 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf

tough climb, wet holds, crumbly rock, fell near the top after right hand hold blown, big fall, 5 stitches in my knee and damaged ligaments in ankle... bugger! but lucky my gear held!

Jessicacrump 21/Apr/14 2nd
Tristypants 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
sheelba 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
riddle 15/Sep/13 2nd O/S
zadurrani 15/Sep/13 Lead
with riddle
Gabe Oliver 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

warm up route, really grotty rock but otherwise ok.

gjh 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
shim ?/Aug/13 2nd
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mick1jones 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Wire slots not secure and so takes cams much better on slab

with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fun fun fun! Very HVS unusual for the quarry!

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
thomb 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Kat
katherinesydney 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
becoming-stranger 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Beth Mc
beth_may 08/Jun/13 2nd
kate tarrant ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 2nd
with Kate Tarrant
ruaidh 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Nigel
James26 04/Sep/12 2nd
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/12 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Bobling 11/Aug/12 Lead

First time I've used my nut key to excavate placements - bit of a shock after Rob's Crack.

with Alan, Ali
wurzelinzummerset 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Ally, Rob
bpmclimb 17/Jun/12 TR rpt

In the rain. Not pleasant!

with Shunt
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 Lead rpt

good slab and crack,nice moves

bpmclimb 06/May/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 01/May/11 TR rpt

To decide between 5a and 5b. Still can't tell. Genuinely on the cusp.

with Shunt
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
James Moyle 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

HVS+ 5a/b

cas smerdon 29/Apr/11 2nd
with James Moyle
evhall 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice route - more 5a

with Fletch
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt

HVS 5a seems spot on.

with Shunt
blum ??/2011 Lead dnf

On first attempt bottled it on the slab went left and disloged loads of rocks don't belay in the gully rock fall hurts!!!!. Tom led clean I seconded

with Tom Starks
Huntlyfiddler 07/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd dog
bpmclimb 07/Oct/07 Lead β
with Clare
Mark Davies PK 07/Oct/07 Lead β

First ascent.Cleaned shit off on abseil.Benchmark E0

with Sarah C
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set