20m. The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower. Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Start a little way up the muddy gully at a block below and right of a cave entrance. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab to gain the obvious left-rising crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty rockover, utilising an obvious side pull, gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest of the slab on good edges and finish up the arête.

M Davies/S Coombes 07/Oct/2007

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ali.scott 8 Sep 2nd O/S
with barbora
with barbora
barbora 8 Sep Lead O/S a hidden gem of the Fairy Cave? probably the best route of the day, solid HVS, one exciting move around the crack in the middle part. i like climbing like this!
a hidden gem of the Fairy Cave? probably the best route of the day, solid HVS, one exciting move around the crack in the middle part. i like climbing like this!
Hidden 2 Aug 2nd
Hidden 2 Aug 2nd
OliverM 6 Jul Lead O/S
Dr.S at work 3 Jul 2nd
Hidden 30 Jun Lead O/S
Darrell Read 24 Jun Lead O/S
with Adam Gayton
with Adam Gayton
ssutton 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Martyn
with Martyn
Hidden 25 May -
eddbeale 25 May Lead
Toni Climber 25 May 2nd
NJaycock 12 May 2nd O/S
davehope 22 Apr 2nd
Steve Webster 22 Apr Lead O/S
MarkH55 14 Apr 2nd Hard!
Hard!
kissmate89 14 Apr Lead
with MarkH55
with MarkH55
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Sam116 16 Sep, 2018 2nd
RoryMcManus 16 Sep, 2018 TR
JP Williams 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Sep, 2018 2nd
Paulos87 2 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Keiran.A 18 Aug, 2018 Lead
eddbeale 18 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Acscadding 18 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
HJM 27 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with DJM
with DJM
Hidden 27 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Bob M 5 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Harry Cripps
with Harry Cripps
TommyK 28 Jun, 2018 TR O/S
Paz 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Surprisingly good VS 4c. Easy for the HVS grade, gear on the first crux is just a bit fiddly, but you can stand hands off there (and everywhere else other than the second crux).
with LD
Surprisingly good VS 4c. Easy for the HVS grade, gear on the first crux is just a bit fiddly, but you can stand hands off there (and everywhere else other than the second crux).
with LD
ollylegg 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Josh Bratchley, anyack
with Josh Bratchley, anyack
Josh Bratchley 9 Jun, 2018 2nd
anyack 9 Jun, 2018 2nd
uncontrollable 19 May, 2018 2nd
with Trace
with Trace
Trace 19 May, 2018 Lead Great first hvs of the season. Felt happy on it. Pretty well protected.
Great first hvs of the season. Felt happy on it. Pretty well protected.
Trace 3 Sep, 2017 2nd
richardashe 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Pixie
with Pixie
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 2nd
Nigel Coe 1 Sep, 2017 Lead
Norman_P_W 1 Sep, 2017 2nd
DanJennings 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Great fun, but hairy in the middle.
with TGHB
Great fun, but hairy in the middle.
with TGHB
TGHB 14 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Great lead by Dan and a fantastic finger jammy route, short but sweet.
Great lead by Dan and a fantastic finger jammy route, short but sweet.
67hours 4 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Good gear, lots of nuts slots, solid rock. Excellent route at least one star!
with Rob Squires
Good gear, lots of nuts slots, solid rock. Excellent route at least one star!
with Rob Squires
robert.b.s 4 Jul, 2017 2nd Fell, crimpy and finger cracks.
Fell, crimpy and finger cracks.
acer2012 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
JamesHarwood 1 Jul, 2017 2nd
markfromstoke 29 Jun, 2017 2nd
with luke43
with luke43
luke43 29 Jun, 2017 Lead
Legs 22 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Fun delicate stuff with a burly move to finish.
Fun delicate stuff with a burly move to finish.
just one more 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S I wouldn't trust the gear on this one, pretty unstable
with rich h, Max B
I wouldn't trust the gear on this one, pretty unstable
with rich h, Max B
beardy mike 4 May, 2017 Lead
Hidden 9 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 21 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Tricky enough in the drizzle
Tricky enough in the drizzle
Ben_Gilbert96 21 Aug, 2016 2nd Bit slippery, took the easier path to the left on the slab.
Bit slippery, took the easier path to the left on the slab.
Kayan 21 Aug, 2016 Lead
Dan Wilcox 13 Aug, 2016 2nd
will_benfold 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with label
with label
label 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
91dave 13 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt First HVS! Very happy with the lead. Probably ran it out a little more than necessary. No gear between the overlap and the crack. Had to sprint through the crack or come off.
with Dan Wilcox
First HVS! Very happy with the lead. Probably ran it out a little more than necessary. No gear between the overlap and the crack. Had to sprint through the crack or come off.
with Dan Wilcox
leland stamper 4 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with BU6330
with BU6330
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 2nd
The Ivanator 16 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hexman 21 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Bit of Elvis leg ! Gear ok, top end HVS I'd say
Bit of Elvis leg ! Gear ok, top end HVS I'd say
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
Steve Bartle 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S Pulse enhancing stuff. Take micros and small cams
with Ruth
Pulse enhancing stuff. Take micros and small cams
with Ruth
Stanners 4 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 3 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Oliver Smaje 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 3 Apr, 2016 2nd
petegunn 3 Apr, 2016 Lead
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
edmundro 22 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 17 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Hooo
with Hooo
Hooo 20 Sep, 2015 2nd Thought this was quite hard, but then I hadn't read the description and didn't realise I was supposed to stand in the crack.
Thought this was quite hard, but then I hadn't read the description and didn't realise I was supposed to stand in the crack.
Robin Woodward 8 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Nice climb with some good variety. Not sure the side-pull was that obvious to Jenny or I, and came a bit to late when I stumbled across it, seemed to manage OK without it however.
Nice climb with some good variety. Not sure the side-pull was that obvious to Jenny or I, and came a bit to late when I stumbled across it, seemed to manage OK without it however.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 2nd
markfromstoke 11 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Adrian, Steve Neads
with Adrian, Steve Neads
Steve Neads 11 Aug, 2015 2nd
Fatclimber 1 Aug, 2015 2nd β
The Ivanator 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Quite good for a route with no stars at FCQ. The moves to access and climb the diagonal crack are fun.
Quite good for a route with no stars at FCQ. The moves to access and climb the diagonal crack are fun.
cpoad 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Clare F
with Clare F
91dave 7 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead
Ejminee 29 May, 2015 2nd
LovelyMrTom 28 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ejminee
with Ejminee
Mayaculpa 17 May, 2015 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
with Mike Rotraxion
abtibbs 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Came off due to pump at the crack traverse
with Jack Verber
Came off due to pump at the crack traverse
with Jack Verber
crater 27 Oct, 2014 2nd
with steve
with steve
Steve Woollard 27 Oct, 2014 Lead Nice little route
with crater
Nice little route
with crater
katiep 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with callans
with callans
Echna 21 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with mnyk
with mnyk
Hidden 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
callans 21 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S Lovely climb on pretty solid rock for the 'cave!
with katiep
Lovely climb on pretty solid rock for the 'cave!
with katiep
Hidden 19 Aug, 2014 2nd
BBEENN 18 Aug, 2014 TR
upontop 1 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 15 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
trwolfe13 29 Jun, 2014 2nd β Cameron had to tell me to get back on the line when I veered a little left. Didn't feel too bad, though.
Cameron had to tell me to get back on the line when I veered a little left. Didn't feel too bad, though.
Pintsize 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with 91dave
with 91dave
91dave 29 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
felixizzy 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
betathief 21 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf tough climb, wet holds, crumbly rock, fell near the top after right hand hold blown, big fall, 5 stitches in my knee and damaged ligaments in ankle... bugger! but lucky my gear held!
tough climb, wet holds, crumbly rock, fell near the top after right hand hold blown, big fall, 5 stitches in my knee and damaged ligaments in ankle... bugger! but lucky my gear held!
Jessicacrump 21 Apr, 2014 2nd
Tristypants 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
with Helen Eden
sheelba 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
riddle 15 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
zadurrani 15 Sep, 2013 Lead
with riddle
with riddle
Gabe Oliver 14 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S warm up route, really grotty rock but otherwise ok.
warm up route, really grotty rock but otherwise ok.
gjh 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
shim ?Aug, 2013 2nd
MartinN 20 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
mick1jones 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Wire slots not secure and so takes cams much better on slab
with Mike Guttridge
Wire slots not secure and so takes cams much better on slab
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Fun fun fun! Very HVS unusual for the quarry!
Fun fun fun! Very HVS unusual for the quarry!
Hidden 30 Jun, 2013 2nd
chrisallan 30 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
thomb 18 Jun, 2013 Lead
katherinesydney 18 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with thomb
with thomb
becoming-stranger 8 Jun, 2013 Lead
beth_may 8 Jun, 2013 2nd
kate tarrant ?May, 2013 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?May, 2013 2nd
with Kate Tarrant
with Kate Tarrant
No? Yes! 14 Oct, 2012 Lead
with Rory G
with Rory G
ruaidh 14 Oct, 2012 2nd
with Nigel
with Nigel
James26 4 Sep, 2012 2nd
Huntlyfiddler 19 Aug, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 19 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
Bobling 11 Aug, 2012 Lead First time I've used my nut key to excavate placements - bit of a shock after Rob's Crack.
with Alan, Ali
First time I've used my nut key to excavate placements - bit of a shock after Rob's Crack.
with Alan, Ali
wurzelinzummerset 11 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Ally, Bobling
with Ally, Bobling
bpmclimb 17 Jun, 2012 TR rpt In the rain. Not pleasant!
with Shunt
In the rain. Not pleasant!
with Shunt
tomshanti 27 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt good slab and crack,nice moves
with Luuuke
good slab and crack,nice moves
with Luuuke
bpmclimb 6 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with hms
with hms
Hidden 6 May, 2011 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 1 May, 2011 TR rpt To decide between 5a and 5b. Still can't tell. Genuinely on the cusp.
with Shunt
To decide between 5a and 5b. Still can't tell. Genuinely on the cusp.
with Shunt
Hidden ?May, 2011 Lead
James Moyle 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S HVS+ 5a/b
HVS+ 5a/b
cas smerdon 29 Apr, 2011 2nd
with James Moyle
with James Moyle
evhall 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S nice route - more 5a
with Fletch
nice route - more 5a
with Fletch
Hidden 29 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S
bpmclimb 27 Mar, 2011 TR rpt HVS 5a seems spot on.
with Shunt
HVS 5a seems spot on.
with Shunt
blum ??, 2011 Lead dnf On first attempt bottled it on the slab went left and disloged loads of rocks don't belay in the gully rock fall hurts!!!!. Tom led clean I seconded
with Tom Starks
On first attempt bottled it on the slab went left and disloged loads of rocks don't belay in the gully rock fall hurts!!!!. Tom led clean I seconded
with Tom Starks
Huntlyfiddler 7 Oct, 2007 2nd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2007 2nd dog
bpmclimb 7 Oct, 2007 Lead β
Mark Davies PK 7 Oct, 2007 Lead β First ascent.Cleaned shit off on abseil.Benchmark E0
with Sarah C
First ascent.Cleaned shit off on abseil.Benchmark E0
with Sarah C
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set