35m.

Rockfax Description
A super climb and a stiff proposition that links a series of stalactite chandeliers with hard moves. Save a bit for the finish. Take some long quickdraws to keep the rope drag down. © Rockfax

FA. Yann Ghesquiers, Philippe Pellet Apr/2001

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Kalymnos Top 50

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UserDateNotes
plant_based_tommo 5 May Show βeta
βeta: The rests are good so keep trucking till you get to one then stay there until your belayer starts to look agitated.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rests are good so keep trucking till you get to one then stay there until your belayer starts to look agitated.
Robbie_Phillips 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the first section was 7C despite the rests, though i only had one 80m rope so there was a lot of rope drag!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the first section was 7C despite the rests, though i only had one 80m rope so there was a lot of rope drag!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Siara Fabbri 17 Oct Lead dog 1st go no flash, next go hopefully
1st go no flash, next go hopefully
jackob 20 May Lead dog 3rd go of the trip. Still can't muster the energy to keep going through the crux section even though individually the moves aren't too bad. Will have to wait till October. ????
3rd go of the trip. Still can't muster the energy to keep going through the crux section even though individually the moves aren't too bad. Will have to wait till October. ????
John 'B' Hutchinson 4 May Lead RP 2nd RP of this trip after falling from the upper section two years ago. An amazing route in an amazing place!
2nd RP of this trip after falling from the upper section two years ago. An amazing route in an amazing place!
plant_based_tommo 3 May Lead β First 7c flash! glad to make this happen after coming so close at van diemans land... What a journey this route is! again big thanks to john for clipping it up and giving me the beta for the crux.
with john hutchinson
First 7c flash! glad to make this happen after coming so close at van diemans land... What a journey this route is! again big thanks to john for clipping it up and giving me the beta for the crux.
with john hutchinson
Jim pratt 26 Apr Lead O/S Well that was fun
Well that was fun
Owen Diba 14 Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Apr Lead dnf
jackob 13 Oct, 2018 2nd dog Seconded to clean it. Jesus christ what a route but what a mistake offering to clean it. Felt nails. Chuffed to be able to do all the moves and looking forward to giving it a proper go in may!
Seconded to clean it. Jesus christ what a route but what a mistake offering to clean it. Felt nails. Chuffed to be able to do all the moves and looking forward to giving it a proper go in may!
TobiAuth 10 Oct, 2018 Lead RP 3rd go. About 45 minutes(?)
3rd go. About 45 minutes(?)
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Feel like I deserve a medal for putting the draws in. Grades aside (mostly because I can’t even guess at what grade this route actually is) Priapos has to be up there with the best and most unique sport climb I’ve ever done. So much fun, so many rests, and so so sweaty...
Feel like I deserve a medal for putting the draws in. Grades aside (mostly because I can’t even guess at what grade this route actually is) Priapos has to be up there with the best and most unique sport climb I’ve ever done. So much fun, so many rests, and so so sweaty...
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 2nd dog
Tom Corras 16 Sep, 2018 Lead β
with Gav, Newberry
with Gav, Newberry
Hidden 20 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
Bernie L 8 May, 2018 Lead O/S Was pretty close to falling a couple of times! First 7c onsight
Was pretty close to falling a couple of times! First 7c onsight
Rockmonkey1977 3 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf First attempt this trip went ok. Couldn’t remember a thing about it from last year but apparently I made it through the crux and fell off a few moves before a mega no hands rest... Seems a bit of a strange thing to say but I’m not convinced I like this particular style of Climbing- it’s too broken by rests so doesn’t flow like other styles. But maybe it’s just because I’m pretty bad at it! I’ll keep persevering and see if it finally clicks...
First attempt this trip went ok. Couldn’t remember a thing about it from last year but apparently I made it through the crux and fell off a few moves before a mega no hands rest... Seems a bit of a strange thing to say but I’m not convinced I like this particular style of Climbing- it’s too broken by rests so doesn’t flow like other styles. But maybe it’s just because I’m pretty bad at it! I’ll keep persevering and see if it finally clicks...
ColmShannon88 ??, 2018 Lead RP
Dale Comley 30 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Too many jugs
with aiyer
Too many jugs
with aiyer
Granitemuncher 20 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Overgraded, but fun as hell. very 3D
with Ben Frazer
Overgraded, but fun as hell. very 3D
with Ben Frazer
pablosordo ?Oct, 2017 Lead dog Mega! Stripping the route was the hardest part
with alex
Mega! Stripping the route was the hardest part
with alex
esther ?Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S Ace, saved this every time I've been here but finally felt ready. Sooooo pumped!
Ace, saved this every time I've been here but finally felt ready. Sooooo pumped!
Jack Delaney 30 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
with Emily Barnett
with Emily Barnett
Patrick Hill 14 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U Fell off eye balling the anchor too pumped to clip on the OS. Next go.
with Rach
Fell off eye balling the anchor too pumped to clip on the OS. Next go.
with Rach
Rockmonkey1977 12 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf Just not in the climbing groove today... This style of climbing still seems alien to me but making progress. Took a couple of unnecessary rests enroute to the crux, moved through that with relative swiftness and then fell off not far above. Couldn't be assed boinking on the rope to get back on so came down. Need to try these climbs when I'm the right mindset as it's all felt physically doable but my headgame is letting the side down!
Just not in the climbing groove today... This style of climbing still seems alien to me but making progress. Took a couple of unnecessary rests enroute to the crux, moved through that with relative swiftness and then fell off not far above. Couldn't be assed boinking on the rope to get back on so came down. Need to try these climbs when I'm the right mindset as it's all felt physically doable but my headgame is letting the side down!
mike reed 5 Feb, 2017 Lead rpt Why is it that some days you feel really good. Felt easy today, don't know why?!? Training training training! Next stop, Spain.
with Tine
Why is it that some days you feel really good. Felt easy today, don't know why?!? Training training training! Next stop, Spain.
with Tine
Hidden 19 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
a_hein 27 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Phenomenal! My first 7c onsight. Milked the rests for a Looong time! What a wild climb!
with Alastair Robertson
Phenomenal! My first 7c onsight. Milked the rests for a Looong time! What a wild climb!
with Alastair Robertson
C coldwell-storry 20 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Jake Rogers
with Jake Rogers
Hidden 20 Sep, 2016 2nd dog
Derek Ryden 7 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Way too sustained for me and with a hard crux.
with Hazel findlay
Way too sustained for me and with a hard crux.
with Hazel findlay
Flavio 27 May, 2016 Lead O/S What a monster of a route, second 7c! I almost dropped twice at the top past the scream-in-pain two hand jam 'rest' I managed to find. Make sure you get dibs on the first go as cleaning the gear is a right faff :) cheers Mike.
What a monster of a route, second 7c! I almost dropped twice at the top past the scream-in-pain two hand jam 'rest' I managed to find. Make sure you get dibs on the first go as cleaning the gear is a right faff :) cheers Mike.
Hidden 27 May, 2016 Lead O/S
mike reed 10 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt Wonderful fitness test. Awesome route!
with paul hayes
Wonderful fitness test. Awesome route!
with paul hayes
Hidden 8 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
joshdownham23 5 Nov, 2015 Lead dog
Aaron.Clifford 27 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Hardest onsight to date. Drained the life out of me. 10/10 would die again.
with Renna Clifford
Hardest onsight to date. Drained the life out of me. 10/10 would die again.
with Renna Clifford
chris m fisher 18 Oct, 2015 Lead Felt like an onsight though after falling off the top 2 years ago it clearly wasn't! Regardless, awesome route, awesome rests
with Andi & Hulda
Felt like an onsight though after falling off the top 2 years ago it clearly wasn't! Regardless, awesome route, awesome rests
with Andi & Hulda
mhairi thorburn 18 Oct, 2015 Lead RP 2nd go
with Davy
2nd go
with Davy
khawk 17 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 25 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Got about a third of the way up.
with RocUp
Got about a third of the way up.
with RocUp
dannyboy83 2 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing adventure, with so many rests it felt easy, need to try the extension now
Amazing adventure, with so many rests it felt easy, need to try the extension now
mshorter 21 May, 2015 Lead RP Probably should of got this first go, but didn't.
with D.Russell, tom
Probably should of got this first go, but didn't.
with D.Russell, tom
Kris suriyo 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 14 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Wilson Moir
with Wilson Moir
LucasHarazin 7 Dec, 2014 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 6 Dec, 2014 Lead dog
Ally Smith 2 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
JulesV 28 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't realise top third wasn't equipped so had to haul some draws up from one of the sit down rests.
Didn't realise top third wasn't equipped so had to haul some draws up from one of the sit down rests.
marek.pietrasz 24 Oct, 2014 Lead β
mic_b 23 Oct, 2014 Lead G/U
with Neil Furness
with Neil Furness
Ed Booth 16 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh
with Anna Pugh
Hidden 3 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 8 May, 2014 Lead O/S First 7c onsight :)
First 7c onsight :)
Hidden 28 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
jamiefoxen 26 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt Best pitch of sport iv done. Fell off at chains on 4th go, made it on the 5th.
with jamie sparks
Best pitch of sport iv done. Fell off at chains on 4th go, made it on the 5th.
with jamie sparks
Hidden 17 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
benkelsey 12 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf Had a little play on in-situ draws. fell at the beginning of the main crux. had probably done more climbing than on DNA or Ivi but was still only half way.
Had a little play on in-situ draws. fell at the beginning of the main crux. had probably done more climbing than on DNA or Ivi but was still only half way.
Hidden 8 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Ri 8 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 21 Oct, 2013 Lead blew the onsight rite at the top what an idiot probably the best climb in kalymnos loved it
blew the onsight rite at the top what an idiot probably the best climb in kalymnos loved it
PeteH 12 Oct, 2013 Lead β Still pumpy as anything despite multiple hands-off rests! Goes on and on...
with Brian McAlinden
Still pumpy as anything despite multiple hands-off rests! Goes on and on...
with Brian McAlinden
Hidden ?Oct, 2013 -
Hidden 19 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
_m.cox_ 3 May, 2013 Lead β
with Jo Stadden
with Jo Stadden
Hidden 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 10 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mat Welsh ?Apr, 2013 Lead O/S First 7c OS, on my first day climbing in the cave - good moves between good(mostly) stalactite / tufa holds. Only found three rests being a novice Grotta climber, I've seen people since finding rests practically every clip, maybe this is why some climbers(or otherwise ego seeking serial downgraders) give it 'high 7b+' which might be understandable if you milk every rest possible ! Surreal, brilliant, big cave endurance climbing either way !
First 7c OS, on my first day climbing in the cave - good moves between good(mostly) stalactite / tufa holds. Only found three rests being a novice Grotta climber, I've seen people since finding rests practically every clip, maybe this is why some climbers(or otherwise ego seeking serial downgraders) give it 'high 7b+' which might be understandable if you milk every rest possible ! Surreal, brilliant, big cave endurance climbing either way !
AlistairB 15 Sep, 2012 Lead dog 2nd go fell off by the last bolt, got a bit lost and a bit tired. What an outrageous route though, so glad I tried.
2nd go fell off by the last bolt, got a bit lost and a bit tired. What an outrageous route though, so glad I tried.
mwatson 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Outrageous route probably the best i've done
Outrageous route probably the best i've done
thomasadixon 8 Apr, 2012 Lead dog
skygodley 23 Nov, 2011 Lead RP Why oh why am I so greedy, if I'd tried it on a fresh day, I'm sure I'd have got the on sight instead of second go!
with SarahM
Why oh why am I so greedy, if I'd tried it on a fresh day, I'm sure I'd have got the on sight instead of second go!
with SarahM
sam_cox 26 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 25 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Intimidating amazing route. 7b+
with Toby Foord-Kelcey
Intimidating amazing route. 7b+
with Toby Foord-Kelcey
Glenn Sutcliffe 23 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with keefe
with keefe
Gus 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
mux 30 Sep, 2011 Lead RP Bloody good fun.
Bloody good fun.
Ramon Marin 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Easy if you have the fitness and don't rush it. I took about an hour to tick it, remember that is graded with the rests. Pumpy as hell regardless, but easy to onsight
with dave gary
Easy if you have the fitness and don't rush it. I took about an hour to tick it, remember that is graded with the rests. Pumpy as hell regardless, but easy to onsight
with dave gary
NDD 11 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Massive rests inbetween a couple of tricky bits. Soft.
Massive rests inbetween a couple of tricky bits. Soft.
westyb3 23 May, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant Climbing, soft in the grade. will defiantly go back for the extension.
with _m.cox_, Alan Sarhan
Brilliant Climbing, soft in the grade. will defiantly go back for the extension.
with _m.cox_, Alan Sarhan
rhoslynfrugtniet 1 May, 2011 Lead β such an amazing line! Nearly dropped the top, which after all that climbing would have been pretty annoying, but managed to flash it!
such an amazing line! Nearly dropped the top, which after all that climbing would have been pretty annoying, but managed to flash it!
Billg 13 Apr, 2011 Lead RP Amazing route crossing ground not normally found on 7c!!!.
with James Kauntze
Amazing route crossing ground not normally found on 7c!!!.
with James Kauntze
dan gibson 17 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
martroberts 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S A tufa jockey's paradise!My first 7c on sight. Thanks for the 40 minute belaying marathon Nui :-) Sorry 35 of those minutes was in the sun!
A tufa jockey's paradise!My first 7c on sight. Thanks for the 40 minute belaying marathon Nui :-) Sorry 35 of those minutes was in the sun!
Edd Mowbray 4 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
marky 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Mega voyage at the grade!
with Sharon
Mega voyage at the grade!
with Sharon
jfreeman 8 Apr, 2009 Lead β
with simonr
with simonr
simonr 8 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Too pumped!
Too pumped!
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
hutch ?Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ?Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Tried the extension os but rope drag too much on just one rope.
Tried the extension os but rope drag too much on just one rope.
david potts 24 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Nat
with Nat
Kev Little ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 12 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S Awesome. 18 clips
with karin
Awesome. 18 clips
with karin
keefe 10 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with Tansy
with Tansy
Cailean Harker ??, Lead O/S 7 mins 57 seconds
with westyb3
7 mins 57 seconds
with westyb3
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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set