58m, 3 pitches. Good climbing with a devious and intimidating second pitch. Start from the foot of the buttress in a squeeze chimney (Fat Man's Agony) formed by a large detached flake.
1.) 20m, climb the chimney and up to a ledge, step right and follow a steep crack to a ledge.
2.) 20m, ascend the steep rock above to a wide ledge at 5m. Traverse left for 5m then go straight up for 8m, where a traverse back right below an overhang can be made onto an arete that leads onto good holds to a large ledge.
3.) 18m, the crack on the left followed by the left corner of the buttress are climbed to a junction with Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route.

F Botterill, J de V Hazard Apr/1909

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers.


ClimberDateStyle
joermann 31/May AltLd
keith hal 26/May AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1-3 V good route...character building stuff!!

with helen
HelenB 26/May AltLd O/S

Led 4th pitch shared with Eagle's Nest Ordinary

with Keith
Harry Ellis 17/May Lead

The mist was cold. harder than I recalled

with Martin Lyne
Hidden 29/Apr AltLd O/S
chrisdjackson 07/Apr Lead O/S

Good and not too hard climbing throughout. Skipped the grass and went right for more interesting climbing

with Dan
scottidog 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Hugh Jordan
Chelsey Robinson 01/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

joe hallam 01/Aug/16 AltLd

1 and 3 couldn't find abseil. descent off of sphinx ridge. joe and james' classic rock challenge

Trace 29/May/16 AltLd

Dropped my beloved green reverso on the route, alas, he was destined for better things

nelstrop 06/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 1 and 3. Description in the book was rubbish for the third pitch, missed the move onto the blocks but rejoined the route eventually, pitch 2 was the most exciting

with chris
petegunn 11/Oct/15 AltLd
with Ash, Davina
Hidden 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with John Baston, Tessa Baston
Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 27/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

I led the even pitches. Did it many years ago, but other than the start I couldn't remember any of it. Severe as per the guidebook is maybe right, due to the 2nd pitch.

with Carmen
DGY 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Graham & Robbe
Hidden 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Pigpen 07/Apr/15 AltLd
with Loch
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd
erbridger 03/May/14 AltLd
with nedly14
ned_85 03/May/14 AltLd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with BJ, Mike Hendry
MikeLell 13/Aug/13 Solo O/S

After long walk-in from Honister Pass. May have gone off route for a bit near the top.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
chris smith 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
colin smith 21/Sep/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Jenny Hall 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with tom wood, Louis
Sam Marks 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Capsey
Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd
Will Hunt 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Went direct through overhang at start of P3 for interest.

Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lois lead fitst, second pitch felt hard for grade, but was interesting, abbed off at second belay

Trobbo 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with andy hartley
iwebster59017 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Kirsty810202 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S
fulton333 02/Jul/11 Lead
with Charlie Edwards, Jojo Mills
Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd
ruaidh 29/Apr/11 AltLd

Thought this was harder than eagle's nest direct... could have strayed onto something else.

with Jonah
tom_holdsworth 20/Apr/11 2nd
with Owen Larsen
timmsy 27/Mar/11 AltLd

go rt under roof then up. poor description

Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
Hidden 15/Aug/10 -
Harry Ellis 02/Aug/10 -

went right way on pitch two this time. Moved together on ridge crest,

with Chris Cox
biggianthead 31/May/10 -

Moves are very technical. easily severe about 4a, but well protected.

with T, G
gordon henderson 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Nov/09 AltLd
tiga271 14/Sep/09 AltLd

led 1st

with mark20
mark20 14/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Great rock, led P2

Mark Salter 08/Jun/09 Lead
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Andysomething 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P3. First lead after op. In latest guide is grade Severe and 3 stars. P2 certainly severe, P3 also initially committing, then quite delicate

with Bruce Perry and Norman Bennett
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Orlov 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Gaynor
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd
alexanderpatton 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Excellent. Just as good as Needle Ridge but far less polished. The second pitch is particularly good

with Cath Moir
Rog Wilko ?/May/04 Lead

This is a great route and quite exciting and difficult for the grade. Until the recent guidebook came out it got V Diff! I still think MVS would be nearer the mark. Both pitch 2 and 3 are worth 4b and have some bold moments.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Harry Ellis ?/Mar/02 -
with Chris Cox
Hidden ?/Jun/01 -
Martin Bennett 04/Sep/99 Solo
Simon Caldwell ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Mike
mike fenwick ?/May/98 Lead
with Lucy
Raggar 16/Jun/96 AltLd
with Andy J
ed woods ??/1995 2nd
with Rob, Claire & Winnick
Hidden 29/May/94 Lead O/S
stewart murray ??/1990 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 03/Oct/87 Lead
with Phil Moorey
Hammy 01/Aug/82 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 Solo
jon ?/Jun/76 Lead
with Elaine
Bob M ?/Apr/76 -
with Graham Cooper
Paul Clarke ??/1971 AltLd
with FMC
Hidden ?/Aug/65 -
Hidden ??/1960 -
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Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
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