45m. Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).

GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017.

joermann 31/May/17 2nd
ldadams 09/May/17 Lead O/S
with Mark Chaplin
Hidden 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S
davenev 06/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Graham
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
RM199 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
loonylovegood93 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
tgeh 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with imogene
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead
Jmpollard 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Didn't think much to the bottom half as its quite broken in parts, but when you move off the cracks it really picks up in terms of quality. Bold upper section for the grade and fantastic exposure!

with Chris glover
ChrisGlover1995 11/Jul/16 Lead
Elsier 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Lovely route, took alternate second pitch at about 4b

with Adrian
crag_hopper_Jay 27/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead
richy85 08/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Aiden
hfac 08/May/16 Lead
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden 22/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
55pete55 19/Sep/15 2nd
Ewa Koc 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Pajak
deacondeacon 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Two very long pitches. Phil got the direct start, I got the diff finish. Walked to the top of Gable afterwards through Westmorland crag. Then back to Wasdale. A good day :)

the power 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with deacon
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd
Valaisan ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 2nd
will_benfold 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Aileen
Dave Mahon 23/May/15 AltLd

I led the long 1st pitch. Easy but run-out at the top, a great pitch.

with Justin Sharpe
runwildjohn 14/May/15 2nd
How easy ?/May/15 Lead
JackM92 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Awesome! Good steady climbing, cruised through.

steely 21/Mar/15 2nd
with luke armitage
Hidden ??/2015 -
eilidh_m 31/Aug/14 -
with Willie Milne
Mike Hood 19/Aug/14 Lead
Paul Clarke 07/Aug/14 -

With sacks and on to top of Gable. Great day out.

bpclarke 07/Aug/14 -
Binder 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Tom led the direct pitch. Brilliant route, brilliant position.

with Tom S
Scott Quinn 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Love this route, love the fact that the chaps on the FA worried about recording it as they didn't want anyone die repeating it!

Tom.Priestley 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Nice positions, bit run out at the top but not too bad.

Em66 ?/Jun/14 -
with Mat
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
Hidden 17/May/14 -
stub1990 17/May/14 Lead
with Adam Gregg
Adamski1986 17/May/14 2nd rpt
tskelhon ??/2014 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??/2014 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
jonnie3430 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Climbed in my new big boots to test them out. They made foot jamming in the crack very comfortable.

Hidden 31/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/13 -
kasha_gregson 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kasha
Mark123 06/Jul/13 -

Total respect for first ascentionists of this VS in 1892! Wow!

Harry Ellis 07/May/13 AltLd
with Chris Cox
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
colin smith 21/Sep/12 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Ste Ridd 11/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Sam Marks 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S

A superb outing, one of the best pitches i've done up to now...

with Matt Capsey
Hidden 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
HowieB 14/Jun/12 AltLd
with Job A
Hidden 06/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Beronj 02/Jun/12 Lead

Lead all the pitches for Zara. Started trending to right side of arete, might have been a little off-route. Ran it together to the top of the direct start. Took all day- Zara not on form, rope management problems, stuck behind others and even a long phone call from Dervey in Canada.

with Zara
Steven Andrews 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb and a fun finish up the upper ridge

with Zeb, Andrew Marshall
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Woodiee 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing line up the slabby arete - a must do at the grade!!

with sam webb
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Ian Hinkins ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
climbergg 24/Jul/11 Lead

Amazing position! Think of the poor guys who put the route up - much easier to protect the sparse middle section with modern gear.

Tim M 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Emma
Adamski1986 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Richard Gage
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
clint87 10/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd
chris smith 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
joscott 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

yet another superb route

ruaidh 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Jonah
jon59 28/Apr/11 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 24/Apr/11 2nd
JakiBell ?/Apr/11 2nd
with Nigel Jenkins
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Westy
jon59 ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
stimpey 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Pete, Davina
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 -
hazeysunshine 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave
andy jennings 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Floris
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
gordon henderson 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
Peter Metcalfe 11/Apr/10 Lead

An absolutely superb pitch. From the large ledge above the crux slab the best (and easiest) descent is to continue 10m up the Ordinary Route and ab off the large pinnacle onto the Dress Circle.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
mic_b 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with James Blake
Shaw Brown 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Loz
mike fenwick ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
GeorgeArmstrong 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave Scott
220bpm 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Jack Shepherd 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Luke Jones
Simonfarfaraway 29/May/09 -
with Paul Gale
John Pickles 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Orlov 15/Apr/09 Solo
with Gaynor
chris wyatt 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Take the alternate 4c second pitch

with Andrew Leigh
DavidEvans 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Garrett
tomhull 11/Apr/09 2nd
Martin Davies 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Amazing route, on an amazing day!

Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Solo
Bob ??/2009 -
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd
perfectlynormalbeast ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Stuart Fox
John Dale 25/May/08 Lead
with Andy Railton
Ben1983 17/May/08 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 17/May/08 Lead O/S

A stunning climb

with James
Jimmy O 17/May/08 AltLd O/S

Great. But probably worth abbing off after the first pitch as the Diff finish is a little disappointing.

ioboy 05/May/08 Lead
with Pete Holland
tomhull ?/May/08 AltLd
with adam noble
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 18/Oct/07 AltLd
topsyturvy ?/Sep/07 -

Date approx

with Dan Hattle
Cardi 20/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Quite bold on 1st pitch

with Ben D
BALD EAGLE 26/May/07 2nd
with Nick Eaton
Rob Rocket 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Wearing
Dave Wearing 14/Apr/07 2nd
with Rocket.
Tom Phillips 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with julian
innesmac ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis ?/Aug/05 -
with Ben Monypenny
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead
platt2000 ??/2005 Lead
karly54 22/May/04 Lead O/S
kickaha4 22/May/04 2nd
Ben lad ??/2000 -
with briff, The Wallace
Martin Bennett 05/Sep/99 Solo
Hidden 22/Aug/99 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 02/May/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
plain kitten ?/Jul/98 Lead
roncaves 17/May/97 Lead
with John Barnard
Neil Conway 07/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy
Hidden 07/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden 04/May/96 Lead O/S
kevp ?/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with Mike Vogler
biggianthead 21/Jun/95 -
with C
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
Hidden 12/Jun/94 -
Hidden ?/Feb/94 AltLd
Raggar 27/Jun/92 AltLd

suspect date

with Chris B
Mick King 17/May/92 Lead
with Steve Brodie
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/92 Lead

I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.

with Debbie Wilkinson
John Southworth ?/Apr/90 AltLd
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
babymoac 04/May/89 Lead
with Howard
stewart murray ??/1989 AltLd

Led crux

with Simon Barras
Paul Clarke ??/1984 Lead
with Dave Earl
John Marsland 29/Jun/83 Lead
with Mark Cohen
ill_bill ?/Aug/82 Lead
with Martin Bown
Steve Crowe 03/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 29/Mar/82 Lead

part of a long day including soloing easier routes

with Al Bennett
MikeDowsett ??/1982 AltLd
with Andy Lynch
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 Solo
ColinMeech ??/1980 Lead O/S

My second saw me fitting a wire and yelled "This was a first ascent in 1894 and there was a lassie in the group!" I downclimbed and re-started using two slings and a pebble.

Bob M ?/Aug/75 Lead
with Geraldine King
Hidden ?/Jun/75 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/74 Lead
Hidden ??/1967 -
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High MVS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 37
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set