45m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning line combined with airy climbing. Start directly below the arete reached by scrambling down from The Dress Circle.
1) 4b, 45m. Climb to a ledge, then take twin cracks on the arete to a small ledge. Continue to another small ledge and make some bold moves up a slab to yet another ledge. Move up to a belay below a chimney (this is the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary). Follow Eagle's Nest Ordinary from here.
2) 10m. Climb the chimney and short rib left to a stance.
3) 15m. Take a chimney on the left and then follow easy ground to below a steep section of rock.
4) 40m. Climb a crack and chimney on the right to gain the low-angled ridge beyond. Move along this to the descent line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).

GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Nigel Coe 17 Sep Lead
with Pete Kelly
with Pete Kelly
tom_lewis89 25 Aug Lead Lovely stuff. Weren't joking when they mention the run-out in the route description.
with george
Lovely stuff. Weren't joking when they mention the run-out in the route description.
with george
Hidden 28 Jun Lead O/S
Joshcastril 26 Jun Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 26 Jun AltLd O/S
with Josh
with Josh
esuddes 23 Jun AltLd Airy and fantastic
with Henry
Airy and fantastic
with Henry
sheelba 12 May AltLd Naomi led then finished up the ridge
with Naomi
Naomi led then finished up the ridge
with Naomi
RichHartley77 11 May Lead O/S
Hidden 11 May 2nd O/S
SOUTHERN GRAY 21 Apr Lead
with Scott
with Scott
Ginopereira 23 Feb - Great climbing until the rain and mist came in. It made it slippy and a lot more necky! Glad I wasn't leading !!!
with Jason wood
Great climbing until the rain and mist came in. It made it slippy and a lot more necky! Glad I wasn't leading !!!
with Jason wood
Hidden ?? -
Hidden ?? -
Chubbs ?? -
steve-grigg 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with MegWan
with MegWan
Wizzy 28 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S Brilliant route
Brilliant route
Hidden 28 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
paul_the_northerner 25 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Will reed, TJFairchild
with Will reed, TJFairchild
TJFairchild 25 Aug, 2018 2nd
Little AndyH 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
French Erick 2 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S as a BGR support effort...OMG those polished moves atop the nests!
as a BGR support effort...OMG those polished moves atop the nests!
Allan Winstanley 30 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Chris
with Chris
ChrisH.19 30 Jun, 2018 2nd
paul_the_northerner 3 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Em
with Em
tsl42 13 May, 2018 2nd O/S With rucksack.
With rucksack.
smelliedebs ?May, 2018 Lead
with Tim
with Tim
joermann 31 May, 2017 2nd
ldadams 9 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Mark Chaplin
with Mark Chaplin
JonLongshanks 21 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Lovely. Rope got jammed pulling after abseil... had to prussik back up :/
Lovely. Rope got jammed pulling after abseil... had to prussik back up :/
MJTheobald97 21 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
davenev 6 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
RM199 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
loonylovegood93 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
tgeh 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with imogene
with imogene
A. Summerell 10 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead
Jmpollard 11 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Didn't think much to the bottom half as its quite broken in parts, but when you move off the cracks it really picks up in terms of quality. Bold upper section for the grade and fantastic exposure!
with Chris glover
Didn't think much to the bottom half as its quite broken in parts, but when you move off the cracks it really picks up in terms of quality. Bold upper section for the grade and fantastic exposure!
with Chris glover
ChrisGlover1995 11 Jul, 2016 Lead
Elsier 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Lovely route, took alternate second pitch at about 4b
with AdrianC
Lovely route, took alternate second pitch at about 4b
with AdrianC
crag_hopper_Jay 27 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2016 Lead
richy85 8 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Aiden
with Aiden
hfac 8 May, 2016 Lead
Darron ??, 2016 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
55pete55 19 Sep, 2015 2nd
Ewa Koc 30 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Pajak
with Pajak
deacondeacon 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Two very long pitches. Phil got the direct start, I got the diff finish. Walked to the top of Gable afterwards through Westmorland crag. Then back to Wasdale. A good day :)
Two very long pitches. Phil got the direct start, I got the diff finish. Walked to the top of Gable afterwards through Westmorland crag. Then back to Wasdale. A good day :)
the power 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 2nd
Valaisan ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2015 2nd
will_benfold 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon 23 May, 2015 AltLd I led the long 1st pitch. Easy but run-out at the top, a great pitch.
with Justin Sharpe
I led the long 1st pitch. Easy but run-out at the top, a great pitch.
with Justin Sharpe
runwildjohn 14 May, 2015 2nd
How easy ?May, 2015 Lead
JackM92 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome! Good steady climbing, cruised through.
Awesome! Good steady climbing, cruised through.
steely 21 Mar, 2015 2nd
with luke armitage
with luke armitage
drew8connelly ??, 2015 -
eilidh_m 31 Aug, 2014 -
with Willie Milne
with Willie Milne
Mike Hood 19 Aug, 2014 Lead
Hidden 7 Aug, 2014 -
bpclarke 7 Aug, 2014 -
Binder 7 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Tom led the direct pitch. Brilliant route, brilliant position.
with Tom S
Tom led the direct pitch. Brilliant route, brilliant position.
with Tom S
Scott Quinn 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Love this route, love the fact that the chaps on the FA worried about recording it as they didn't want anyone die repeating it!
Love this route, love the fact that the chaps on the FA worried about recording it as they didn't want anyone die repeating it!
Tom.Priestley 20 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Nice positions, bit run out at the top but not too bad.
Nice positions, bit run out at the top but not too bad.
Em66 ?Jun, 2014 -
with Freg1
with Freg1
mark ward 31 May, 2014 Lead led pitches 1
with Judith KMC
led pitches 1
with Judith KMC
Hidden 31 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 17 May, 2014 -
stub1990 17 May, 2014 Lead
with Adam Gregg
with Adam Gregg
Adamski1986 17 May, 2014 2nd rpt
tskelhon ??, 2014 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??, 2014 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
with Steve Davis
jonnie3430 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Carol
with Carol
Carol Goodall 10 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Climbed in my new big boots to test them out. They made foot jamming in the crack very comfortable.
Climbed in my new big boots to test them out. They made foot jamming in the crack very comfortable.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 -
kasha_gregson 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Mark123 6 Jul, 2013 - Total respect for first ascentionists of this VS in 1892! Wow!
Total respect for first ascentionists of this VS in 1892! Wow!
Harry Ellis 7 May, 2013 AltLd
with Chris Cox
with Chris Cox
Andy Chadwick ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
colin smith 21 Sep, 2012 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt
Ste Ridd 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with manmike
with manmike
manmike 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Sam Marks 12 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S A superb outing, one of the best pitches i've done up to now...
with Matt Capsey
A superb outing, one of the best pitches i've done up to now...
with Matt Capsey
Hidden 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
HowieB 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Job A
with Job A
Hidden 6 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
Beronj 2 Jun, 2012 Lead Lead all the pitches for Zara. Started trending to right side of arete, might have been a little off-route. Ran it together to the top of the direct start. Took all day- Zara not on form, rope management problems, stuck behind others and even a long phone call from Dervey in Canada.
with Zazu
Lead all the pitches for Zara. Started trending to right side of arete, might have been a little off-route. Ran it together to the top of the direct start. Took all day- Zara not on form, rope management problems, stuck behind others and even a long phone call from Dervey in Canada.
with Zazu
Steven Andrews 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Great climb and a fun finish up the upper ridge
with Zeb, Andrew Marshall
Great climb and a fun finish up the upper ridge
with Zeb, Andrew Marshall
Hidden ?May, 2012 -
Woodiee 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing line up the slabby arete - a must do at the grade!!
with sam webb
Amazing line up the slabby arete - a must do at the grade!!
with sam webb
Narked4fun ??, 2012 -
Ian Hinkins ??, 2012 -
CHADWICK64 ??, 2012 -
with Hugh Stewart
with Hugh Stewart
Hidden ??, 2012 -
climbergg 24 Jul, 2011 Lead Amazing position! Think of the poor guys who put the route up - much easier to protect the sparse middle section with modern gear.
with Tim M
Amazing position! Think of the poor guys who put the route up - much easier to protect the sparse middle section with modern gear.
with Tim M
Tim M 24 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Adamski1986 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Richard Gage
with Richard Gage
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 Lead
clint87 10 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 2nd
chris smith 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
joscott 2 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
jlismore 30 Apr, 2011 Lead
Graeme Hammond 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S yet another superb route
yet another superb route
ruaidh 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Jonah
with Jonah
jon59 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
JakiBell ?Apr, 2011 2nd
with Nigel Jenkins
with Nigel Jenkins
mattkemp70 ?Apr, 2011 Lead
with Westy
with Westy
jon59 ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
stimpey 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Pete, Davina
with Pete, Davina
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
petegunn 22 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Davina & Steve
with Davina & Steve
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 -
hazeysunshine 18 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
andy jennings 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Floris
with Floris
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
gordon henderson 17 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 11 Apr, 2010 Lead An absolutely superb pitch. From the large ledge above the crux slab the best (and easiest) descent is to continue 10m up the Ordinary Route and ab off the large pinnacle onto the Dress Circle.
An absolutely superb pitch. From the large ledge above the crux slab the best (and easiest) descent is to continue 10m up the Ordinary Route and ab off the large pinnacle onto the Dress Circle.
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
mic_b 12 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
with James Blake
with James Blake
Shaw Brown 22 Aug, 2009 2nd
with loz01
with loz01
Small and weak ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
GeorgeArmstrong 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Dave Scott
with Dave Scott
220bpm 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Jack Shepherd 24 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Luke Jones
with Luke Jones
Simonfarfaraway 29 May, 2009 -
with Paul Gale
with Paul Gale
John Pickles 19 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with 8848
with 8848
Hidden 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Orlov 15 Apr, 2009 Solo
with Gaynor
with Gaynor
chris wyatt 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Take the alternate 4c second pitch
with Andrew Leigh
Take the alternate 4c second pitch
with Andrew Leigh
DavidEvans 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Helen Garrett
with Helen Garrett
tomhull 11 Apr, 2009 2nd
Martin Davies 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Amazing route, on an amazing day!
with tomhull
Amazing route, on an amazing day!
with tomhull
steve prior ?Apr, 2009 Lead
with Roger C
with Roger C
chris m fisher 20 Mar, 2009 Solo
Bob ??, 2009 -
Hidden 23 Sep, 2008 2nd
perfectlynormalbeast ?Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Stuart Fox
with Stuart Fox
John Dale 25 May, 2008 Lead
with Andy Railton
with Andy Railton
Ben1983 17 May, 2008 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 17 May, 2008 Lead O/S A stunning climb
with Jimmy O
A stunning climb
with Jimmy O
Jimmy O 17 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Great. But probably worth abbing off after the first pitch as the Diff finish is a little disappointing.
Great. But probably worth abbing off after the first pitch as the Diff finish is a little disappointing.
ioboy 5 May, 2008 Lead
with Pete Holland
with Pete Holland
tomhull ?May, 2008 AltLd
with adam noble
with adam noble
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2007 AltLd
topsyturvy ?Sep, 2007 - Date approx
with Dan Hattle
Date approx
with Dan Hattle
Cardi 20 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Quite bold on 1st pitch
with Ben D
Quite bold on 1st pitch
with Ben D
BALD EAGLE 26 May, 2007 2nd
with Nick Eaton
with Nick Eaton
Rob Rocket 14 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave Wearing
with Dave Wearing
Dave Wearing 14 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Rocket.
with Rocket.
Tom Phillips 4 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jules C
with Jules C
innesmac ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis ?Aug, 2005 -
with Ben Monypenny
with Ben Monypenny
Hidden 26 Jun, 2005 Lead
platt2000 ??, 2005 Lead
Hidden 22 May, 2004 Lead O/S
kickaha4 22 May, 2004 2nd
with karly54
with karly54
Ben lad ??, 2000 -
with briff, The Wallace
with briff, The Wallace
Martin Bennett 5 Sep, 1999 Solo
Hidden 22 Aug, 1999 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 2 May, 1999 Lead
with Gill Heartly
with Gill Heartly
plain kitten ?Jul, 1998 Lead
roncaves 17 May, 1997 Lead
with John Barnard
with John Barnard
Neil Conway 7 Sep, 1996 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy
with Steve Hardy
Hidden 7 Jul, 1996 Lead
Hidden 4 May, 1996 Lead O/S
kevp ?Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Mike Vogler
with Mike Vogler
biggianthead 21 Jun, 1995 -
with C
with C
Iain Brown 5 May, 1995 -
with Matthew
with Matthew
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 1995 -
Hidden 12 Jun, 1994 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Feb, 1994 AltLd
with Nick Williams, Julian Wood
with Nick Williams, Julian Wood
Raggar 27 Jun, 1992 AltLd suspect date
with Chris B
suspect date
with Chris B
Mick King 17 May, 1992 Lead
with Steve Brodie
with Steve Brodie
Rog Wilko ?Apr, 1992 Lead I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.
with Debbie Wilkinson
I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change.
with Debbie Wilkinson
John Southworth ?Apr, 1990 AltLd
DaveHo ??, 1990 Lead O/S
babymoac 4 May, 1989 Lead
with Howard
with Howard
stewart murray ??, 1989 AltLd Led crux
with Simon Barras
Led crux
with Simon Barras
NickR ??, 1988 -
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
John Marsland 29 Jun, 1983 Lead
with Mark Cohen
with Mark Cohen
ill_bill ?Aug, 1982 Lead
with Martin Bown
with Martin Bown
Steve Crowe 3 Jul, 1982 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 29 Mar, 1982 Lead part of a long day including soloing easier routes
with Al Bennett
part of a long day including soloing easier routes
with Al Bennett
MikeDowsett ??, 1982 AltLd
with Andy Lynch
with Andy Lynch
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1982 Solo
ColinMeech ??, 1980 Lead O/S My second saw me fitting a wire and yelled "This was a first ascent in 1894 and there was a lassie in the group!" I downclimbed and re-started using two slings and a pebble.
My second saw me fitting a wire and yelled "This was a first ascent in 1894 and there was a lassie in the group!" I downclimbed and re-started using two slings and a pebble.
Bob M ?Aug, 1975 Lead
with Geraldine King
with Geraldine King
JohnHutch ?Jun, 1975 2nd
with CR
with CR
Hidden 30 Jun, 1974 Lead
Hidden ??, 1967 -
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High MVS
Mid MVS
Low MVS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 38
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set