Rockfax Description
A stunning line combined with airy climbing. Start directly below the arete reached by scrambling down from The Dress Circle.
1) 4b, 45m. Climb to a ledge, then take twin cracks on the arete to a small ledge. Continue to another small ledge and make some bold moves up a slab to yet another ledge. Move up to a belay below a chimney (this is the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary). Follow Eagle's Nest Ordinary from here.
2) 10m. Climb the chimney and short rib left to a stance.
3) 15m. Take a chimney on the left and follow easy ground to below a steep section of rock.
4) 40m. Climb a crack and chimney on the right to gain the low-angled ridge beyond. Move along this to the descent line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Delightful, open and delicate climbing up the steep arete at the left end of the Dress Circle. Small wires have made all the difference to this once, very bold lead. Start directly below the arete.
Steep rocks with good holds are climbed, bearing right to a ledge overlooking the Dress Circle. Climb up and left to the arete, using two parallel cracks then step up to a small platform (The Eagle's Nest) followed by another platform (The Crow's Nest) after a further 5m. Delicate moves on sloping and polished holds are made from the platform onto the slab above, which leads to Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route (top of pitch 3).
GA Solly, WC Slingsby, GP Baker, WA Brigg Apr/1892.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Lake District , Lakes Trad Ticklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| andy gittins | 20 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some people mention an ab after the main pitch - it’s on rotted tat round a dangerously unstable thread. Avoid if you value your life, besides the upper pitches and descent give great Alpine mountaineering and enhance the character of the whole route significantly. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Some people mention an ab after the main pitch - it’s on rotted tat round a dangerously unstable thread. Avoid if you value your life, besides the upper pitches and descent give great Alpine mountaineering and enhance the character of the whole route significantly. |
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| LoneDeranger | 7 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ab ropes can be prone to becoming stuck at P1 ab station. Still don't really understand how, but I wasn't the first or last to have to go back up... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ab ropes can be prone to becoming stuck at P1 ab station. Still don't really understand how, but I wasn't the first or last to have to go back up... |
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| Rog Wilko | Apr, 1992 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I did this route one hundred years to the day after the first ascent. It was cold, with snow on some of the holds. Even with modern gear this is an exciting route. This is I believe the earliest route which still gets a VS (albeit MVS) grade. I love the story of the pioneers in 1892, who agreed not to report their epic climb in case other people tried to repeat it and were killed. How things change. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Napes
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Bilberry Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Raven Crag (Langdale))