Rockfax Description
Immaculate climbing on golden rock taking a thin crack up the middle of the central shield. Start at a small corner right of the main faultline of The Armchair.
Climb the small, technical corner to the bulges and hand traverse up right to beneath the crack-line. Enter the crack from the right with difficulty and make sustained moves up it until a weakness on the left runs up left to a grassy ledge. Climb the still tricky layback crack above the ledge to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Hidden 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dan724 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ian Grabowski
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Found this really hard, especially getting in to the crack. Think I was trying to go too high.

with Roisin
Hidden 30/May/17 Lead O/S
Dave Almond 18/May/17 2nd

Bmc International meet

with Michal Czech
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson ?/May/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 17/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Hidden ??/2017 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/16 2nd dog
beni 23/Jul/16 Lead
brianhall16 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Helen Wallace
Scott Quinn 20/Jun/16 Lead O/S

it is e4 but we all love a classic sand bag!!! Tom backed off so had some runners pre placed on the easy section, brilliant route only expected one hard move but it doesn't give up after the crux very sustained - final layback is a bit depressing when you think its all over

Tom.Priestley 20/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Foot slipped off on polish whilst trying to gain the crack. I then got tangled in some runners below and ended up upside down with ropeburn on my leg. Went to the ground and gave it another go GU but my heart wasn't in it so backed off.

Tom.Priestley 20/Jun/16 2nd dog

Seconded after Scott's lead. Didn't have the strength to pull through the crux but that's probably as i'd just been on it for a couple of hours!

Tom McCabe 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Immaculate is right. One of the best routes I've ever done. Keeps throwing varied cruxes right until the end, but I found the initial corner most challenging. Very safe, placed 19 runners!

benkelsey 17/Jun/16 2nd RP

This is e4. Two crux sections of 6a. Had failed on this last summer at crux one, but now realise that might have been for the best. Not trad fit so only just seconded it. Strong man you are James.

James Oswald 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route - non stop! E4. A great inital section up the groove, hard moves to get established on the wall and then another 6a crux above your gear. Brilliant, but a sandbag at E3.

JRJones 15/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Started to rain as i pulled into the crack, heartbreaking

with Melissa
chrismadar 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S

An awesome route! Start section is much harder than lets on and the route doesn't let off.

kateharborne 14/Jun/16 2nd dog
manbat 13/Jun/16 2nd dnf

Fuck. Did the techy corner, and then just about blagged the mantle-type move, with extreme lack of style. But the move gaining the corner just seemed nails, and was well beyond me. Trad 6a still seems miles away.

with Luke Randall
m.powell02 04/Jun/16 2nd
switch 30/May/16 2nd rpt
with Andy S
Ramon Marin 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Pumped as Popeye, my god what route. Not easy for E3

with viki harvey
harvie ??/2016 -
jonleighton 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route, my first 6a lead :) The initial hard moves felt quite bold, I did get gear but didn't really fancy actually testing it...

Ed Babs 01/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Felt well hard at the end of the day in 2013 - I gave up where the diagonal crack starts and ab'd for the gear, so stoked to find it ok today. Like everyone says - great climbing.

with AlexD
AlexD 01/Aug/15 2nd

Great moves! Balancy layback crack at the top quite fiendish lying in wait just when you think you've done all the hard work!

with Ed
ferdia 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

amazing. damn hard moves between plentiful rests. E4?

Andy Moles 01/Aug/15 2nd
with Ferdia
Sadie ?/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Amazing lead by jon. In full mid day sun as well! Thought the crux was definitely at the start. Tecchers!

Tom Schofield-Graham 27/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
pete johnson 20/Jul/15 Lead dog

Feet slipped on crux, sliced chunk off finger, covered rest of route in blood.

benkelsey 07/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Techy move at top of groove, sustained until crux. Very greasy and didn't fancy hitting the slab when I ran out of power. Abbed for the gear in the rain.

with Shaun Humphreys
Duncan Campbell 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Tough in the sun! 3 hard sections which are all pretty well protected, though the start feels a bit necky? Potentially worth E4 but an absolutely classic bit of climbing. Effort to frank canning a freeing the first section on the FA. In addition to this Rich Tewson always regaled me with the tale of this, his hardest lead - a fine effort Rich!

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun/15 2nd
soph 26/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Michaela Tracy
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 2nd
Mark Chevassut 10/Jun/15 2nd dog
HazelMacLean 10/Jun/15 2nd dog

Lawrence lead, got beta from Mark. Possibly the best trad I've ever done??? So much fun, super pumpy, all three cruxes pushed me to my limits in different ways. ACE.

with UBMC
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead RP
ian d f 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Quite a tough one for the end of the day

pearson9596 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Very nearly came a cropper.....

Greg Cunningham 16/May/15 Lead
with dom goodridge
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
beni ??/2015 Lead dnf
Ed morris 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Tough E3. Not sustained enough for E4. Climbs as well as it looks.

with Colin
eel 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Howard
david morse 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard all the way. E4

with Jimmy Markot, Gwen, KT, Andy Lole, helen, markalmack
Hidden 18/Aug/14 2nd dnf
markalmack 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

on gay-morse's gear

with gwen, james marjot
quiffhanger 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Just managed to squeeze in as the rain was coming in. Another superb pitch - good practice climbing fast as it was getting wetter by the min!

theotherpetehill 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Got up it clean just as it started raining.

with Ross McKerchar
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mikeshewring 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Fell off, couldn't get back on route. Came back down and Ali abbed down (several times) for gear :-(

with ali k
Alex Mason 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Completely numbed the end of my finger in a black pocket at the start of the crack. Still numb two weeks later. Bastard!

with Jemma Powell
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd dog
Misha 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

What a great route! The climbing is as good as the line. Feels a lot steeper than it looks! The 3D section in the initial corner gave pause for thought but wasn't that hard with some jiggery pokery. Great rest at the base of the crack on the headwall (or should I say slab?!). With good footwork (for a change), getting onto the slab wasn't that hard. It's sustained up the crack for a while but nothing desperate. Pretty easy for the grade really, may be I just had a good day! In fact not entirely convinced that it's really 6a. Most people seem to have voted hard E3 or easy E4 - I beg to differ, Raven Wall the next day was harder! Done on the BMC SW Meet. Iain Peters and Frank Cannings watched me climb it and Frank took a few photos and pointed me in the right direction at the top when I wondered whether to keep following the black vein up the slab or take the easier ground to the left. That's pretty special!

with Sue
tim newton 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S

a few showers as I was on it, but the rock was staying dry. Great climb

Anusky 24/Apr/14 2nd dog

1 fall

Bristoldave 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
alice fuller ?/Oct/13 2nd dog
with woj
Justin T 09/Jun/13 Lead dog

Started off already boxed and expecting to fail - I wasn't disappointed! So done over unable to layback the final crack and had to aid it... Pleased to have read the crux moves correctly from the ground though. The bottom is no pushover either.

oakapple 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 11/May/13 2nd rpt
with Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/May/13 2nd
jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf

What a spanking. Not as 'back on it' as i would like, it turns out! Ben led to the crux, fell off, and I had a go on his gear and couldn't do the crux, so he had another go and got well past the crux with a horrid runout, so opted to reverse right back down til he could safely fall rather than push on into the very wet section facing a nasty fall. Looked and felt E4 to me, for sure, though that may be my post-injury-weakness talking. Abbed for gear.

nimajneb 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf
burto 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Dr Toph 22/Aug/12 Lead dog

spat me off the start of the crack, trying to follow guidebook suggestion of entering from the right. Ended up going in from the left. Then got sucked off route rightwards at the top! Bleah.

with Emily
EmilyN 22/Aug/12 2nd dnf
with Toph
tuftynick 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Aide Jebb
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 01/Sep/11 Lead dnf

reached crux, placed gear and waited until too opumped to make the move-idiot!...probably good though as the rest was pretty tough.

with Mike
CRiddiford 01/Sep/11 2nd dog

knackered after my attempt just before sun went down.

with Mike
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead β
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S


with James Mitchell
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
JulesV 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
colesy 18/Jun/11 Lead β
datoon 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with K
tuftynick 30/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 2nd
Adam Booth 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 27/May/11 Lead O/S
ellis 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Previously led O/S 1996.

with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 22/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Fell after entering crack then rested further up. Brought Nathan up for final layback crack. Made a mess of it but a quality route!

with NJSharp
oliver.ghill91 ??/2011 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -

pushed caroline on to this as her first E3, bad call commiting crux abover a slab leading to commiting laybacking moves with only one cam placement (of ther same size as the one just before the crux)

Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 Lead RP

fell off mantelling onto the top after having done all the hard climbing, I am such an idiot. Great climb though.

Bobby Gilbert 15/May/10 2nd O/S

With Simon from France on BMC international meet. Several wet holds but not too bad. Top layback is a sting in the tale but all hard!

with Simon from France
Harald 12/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/May/10 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
Rowansb 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

It was wet, which was pretty suprising since its been scorching for a week or so. The only dry part was the crux which incidentally felt like the easyest bit.

Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Richard Horn 28/Aug/09 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S

I imposed myself on two extremely friendly locals who patiently belayed and even gave me a lunch! I weighted the gear before getting anywhere near the crux because I'm a tool with no sense of balance. Blind eye to that nonsense and it was on sight.

with Tom
Marti999 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Chad123 03/May/09 AltLd dog

Another pretty hopeless effort! Found getting on the slab hard and then ran out of steam on the top crack and had to resort to top rope. High in the grade for sure....though did manage to toprope it clean to get all my gear out!

with Sam
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Kat Spinney
switch 17/Jul/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Laurence
jfreeman 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Simon and Nick
wojt ??/2008 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/Aug/06 2nd O/S
feilx 28/Aug/06 Lead β
with Iain Hammond
dan gibson 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Dave Kerr 02/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
whispering nic 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead
hal ?/Jun/06 2nd dnf
with Virgil Scott
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S

The heaven's opened mid-crux!!

with Ash
feilx 13/May/06 2nd
with keith
Hidden ??/2006 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
pezzerrr 21/Sep/04 Lead RP

At the third time of asking.

DubyaJamesDubya 26/Aug/02 Lead

Possibly the best I've done.

lx ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S


William Robertson ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
jfletcher 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Gary Thingy
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Steve Crowe 14/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with KM
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/99 Lead O/S

It was soaking wet.

with Iain Fisher
Derek Ryden ??/1998 Lead dog
with Reinhild
duncan 19/Apr/97 2nd
phardman ??/1997 -
ecowaller ??/1997 Lead O/S

Another stunner, beautiful climb

with Wendy Sampson
lost.arrow 11/May/96 2nd
Dave Musgrove 06/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Jul/95 Lead O/S


with Dad
mattnuttall 24/Jul/94 Lead
with Alan Holden
bazza ??/1994 -
pete johnson ?/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with Hughie
Nick Biven 04/Apr/93 Lead dnf

Pumped out of my box then could not do the weird rockover thing

with Rich Whitwell
Hidden 25/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 21/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/91 TR
Glenn Sutcliffe 25/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 25/May/91 -
charlesmfrench 26/May/90 2nd O/S
with Andy Wingfield
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
Bruce Kerr 12/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
Eduardo Martinez 20/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Billg 09/Aug/87 Lead
with Keith Sharples
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 04/Oct/86 Lead O/S
sadams 29/Jul/86 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
Seymore Butt ??/1986 Lead
with Jack, Dave Barton
andybirtwistle 12/Aug/85 2nd
with Andy Moss
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/81 -
Steve Lewis 04/Apr/81 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 49
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set