450m. This is not a sports route but an alpine one - heed the warning. It can be serious and turns into Omaha beach on D-Day (re stone fall) if it rains. In UK technical terms (it is bolted but very sportingly in places approx between 12-20ft spacing). It starts at about UK 4b, rapidly heads up to 5a then as you hit the white streaks it's about 5b/5c slab work with big fall potential due to very well spaced bolts.
It 'can' also become wet in the afternoon as snow well above somewhere starts to melt and filter down. This can be very disconcerting as you look up the slab in the heat of later afternoon to see water filtering down ... one to never get caught on if it looks like rain.

It's a fantastic Alpine route with a massive serious slab which tests your technique/head/bottle to some degree. Don't try and avoid the hardest sections... once you loose the bolt line your in trouble ... it doesn't take any gear ... you may get 2 bits in over approx 300m.

Many people have had issues with the decent when wet.

>p1: 4a, slab ...
>p2: 5a, ... Slab ...
>p3: 5b, ... Slab! The slab is to the ball!
>p4: 5b, a small passage on the left slab (really?)
>p5: 5c, in ... ok, we understood!
>p6: 6a, a step towards the end.
>p7: 6a, the first 3 nails are pretty hot. Tighten the buttocks and trust your feet!
>p8: 5c, climbing becomes a bit more varied.
>p9: 5c, we begin to ascend the chute itself.
>p10: 5b
>p11: 5b, canyoning atmosphere
>p12: 5b, a wall and a beautiful pillar to finish off!

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Roberttaylor ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S

With Peter Carragher. Superb climb, really unique. The bolts are a long way apart and there is no gear between them...you have been warned. The via ferrata/scramble off wasn't too bad.

alexm198 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led odds. 3.5 hours to the top. Good fun climbing, the run-outs really aren't that bad.

Hidden 17/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/15 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
simondunf 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

wonderful, the day started in the torino hut!

with caspar
jcw ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Stroppy 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Definitely NOT an E1 or a 5b, found the route quite easy though great fun. Probably warrants a higher grade as it is such a serious undertaking. Took us 5hrs to complete and quite a horrible down climb. Great great fun though

Sam Husband 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Having never climbed abpve VS I was surprised by the grades listed on here. If you ignore the fall potential the climbing is not above a VS/HS standard and even allowing for the 'seriousness' of the climbing I cannot comprehend how it can be above a HVS (it is in old guide books)as: a) we never noticed a crux and had been falling of F6a the day before b) we finnished in the rain c) it's a shallow slab... . As an asside it is very hollow sounding and may be hiding large quantities of Nazi gold....

with Ed
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Nigel Edley 13/Aug/12 AltLd
Jim Brownlow 13/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed first six pitches before abbing off due to weather closing in. Excellent climb.

with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
tombushell ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Don't believe the scaremongering, plenty of bolts and straightforward climbing. Epic route!

with John Bushell, Sam Husband, Ed Hastrop
Hidden 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/11 AltLd
The Mountain Goat 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing on small holds. Lead pitches 1,2, 9, and 11. It is run out but the friction was amazing never felt I was likely to peel off. decent is very steep and loose, but is protected by a chain handrail. Take your trainers.

Somerset swede basher 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

A great climb, run out enough to make you think (10m ish between bolts) but never too much of a horror. Avoid if poor afternoon forecast as loads of big stones at the top ready to come down.

with Jon Miles
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
claregardiner 14/Sep/10 AltLd
Owain Llewelyn 06/Aug/10 Lead
with Dad
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 24/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Didn't start till mid-afternoon. Earlier that day abandoned plans for route on Pyramide du Tacul as it was overcrowded, walked across Vallee Blanche, caught Helbronner back to Midi, came back down to campsite in Argentiere and drove round to Switzerland! Hot day and thought we'd fry on such an exposed piece of rock, but actually came into shade quite quickly. Superb bold climbing with some lovely technical slab work. Descent relatively straightforward now. Quite a long day!

with Rob
liz j 25/Aug/08 -

It started to drizzle half way up so in true british style, we waited at the belay for an hour for the sun to come back out and carried on climbing. Great route.

with Matt Dickinson
Tobias at Home 15/Jul/08 AltLd dog

Very serious with big fall potential. Not one to push the grade on.

Brian Birtle 15/Jul/08 AltLd RP

The most run out climb I've ever done! Horribly placed bolts all around 10m+ apart and appearing generally AFTER the crux moves. French 6a in several spots. A shame abut the pro, since the climb itself was quite fun and highly recommended... as a follower!

shaun walby ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Kev Groome
Silum ?/Aug/06 -

An excellent adventure. Didn't take a trad rack and had trouble finding bolts, sometimes only a single bolt found in 40m or so. On pitch two a falling rock fell onto my leg resulting in a great deal of blood oozing from me. We decided to continue on, using a tourniquet to stop the blood squirting onto the rock everytime I lifted my leg. Made good time and enjoyed the waterfall that slowly but surely makes things more and more interesting. An adventure for sure, coming back to the car with dark black dried blood covered jeans made for quite a story with the rest of the people we were climbing with.

with Jamie Hill
Hidden ?/Sep/04 -
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Ian JL ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
alkira 04/Aug/93 -
with bruce goodlad, harvey mullen
Richard Weller 16/Aug/90 AltLd dnf
with Richard White
Hidden ?/Jul/89 -
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 06/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Scary, big run outs, descent was teriffying ..oh to still be young and fit!!!!!!!!!!!!

with Jan Kartawick
Hammy 22/Jul/85 AltLd
with Colin Struthers, Jenny le Merle
KRB 19/Jul/80 AltLd O/S

Bad weather in the mountains took us here to find a mini glacier at the bottom and a waterfall down the line of the route. We climbed a line right of the normal route - but as this was totally unprotected we effectively soloed roped together. Only after several death-defying rope lengths did we make it back to the true line for a few wet belays whilst climbing up the technically more difficult left side of the route. Went too high and missed the path down. Back to the car at 11pm in the dark to guzzle our only available sustenance for the whole day - a jar of pickled cabbage vinegar! Very memorable day.

with Mike Bridges
jmr ?/Jul/77 AltLd

Back then no bolts or gear. Just belay rings/bolts/pegs. No holds either. Easy angle. Desparate descent to r. Rope was too short between stances on one pitch so we had to 'move together' and not just the bowels either.

with An unknown 16-year old
Lesdavmor 10/Aug/76 -

Pleasant climb, then protected by a few in situ pegs, the rest bt small wires

with Grace Morris, Steve & Bronwen Blake
4 users have this on their wishlist
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 1
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set