The main icefall may be taken at around grade III. There are also some short steps above and below the main pitch. Rock protection is poor and the rock is friable, so be prepared to belay from the ice or frozen turf.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
RW99 3 Feb Lead
Sam Waddy 3 Feb 2nd
with RW99
with RW99
Dave Cundy 4 Mar, 2018 Lead rpt
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
dkilner 4 Mar, 2018 Lead
PaulTclimbing 4 Mar, 2018 Lead rpt Chewy ice before a thaw sets in.
with BDT
Chewy ice before a thaw sets in.
with BDT
leo-z-g 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd rpt Soloed first few steps. Both lead the main pitch as we absailed back down to make the most of it. Was getting a bit drippy but still good ice when we were there.
with dkilner
Soloed first few steps. Both lead the main pitch as we absailed back down to make the most of it. Was getting a bit drippy but still good ice when we were there.
with dkilner
ali.scott 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Matt G, Cara W
with Matt G, Cara W
steve_gibbs 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic ice climbing! We must have been the first on it in days, as all the pitches were in pristine condition! Getting the truck stuck in a snow-drift and spending an hour digging it out all added to the adventure!
Fantastic ice climbing! We must have been the first on it in days, as all the pitches were in pristine condition! Getting the truck stuck in a snow-drift and spending an hour digging it out all added to the adventure!
danieleaston 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd Led 1, 2 and a short 4th. Steve led main pitch. Missed out some more ice further up the top.
Led 1, 2 and a short 4th. Steve led main pitch. Missed out some more ice further up the top.
Ali D 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome day
Awesome day
Win-yei 3 Mar, 2018 2nd
pelvoux 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Slarti B 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S I led first couple of smallish pitches, Eric led main pitch and small pitch after that. Good ice, quite busy. Eric went left at top of main pitch interesting mixed section! Great day, Josie's first ice climb.
with Josie, pelvoux
I led first couple of smallish pitches, Eric led main pitch and small pitch after that. Good ice, quite busy. Eric went left at top of main pitch interesting mixed section! Great day, Josie's first ice climb.
with Josie, pelvoux
Steve Bartle 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S My first water ice lead. What do day! We couldn't get any closer than Talybont on Usk village so had to do a 14mile round trip to the falls. Well worth it though. I led the 2nd main pitch
My first water ice lead. What do day! We couldn't get any closer than Talybont on Usk village so had to do a 14mile round trip to the falls. Well worth it though. I led the 2nd main pitch
andy dunn 3 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Good ice the full height of the falls - running water behind ice notable in the upper section.
with Bessie, J, Si Lidgate
Good ice the full height of the falls - running water behind ice notable in the upper section.
with Bessie, J, Si Lidgate
tobydunford 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Hary led most of it. I sneaked in a short pitch. Great day after skinning up on our skis from the village and along the top. Topping out in the dark and navigating ourselves off the top. Proper adventure. Rescued a local in his truck on the way down and got a lift back to the village probably saving 2 hours of skinning along the road- lucked out there!
with Harry Martin
Hary led most of it. I sneaked in a short pitch. Great day after skinning up on our skis from the village and along the top. Topping out in the dark and navigating ourselves off the top. Proper adventure. Rescued a local in his truck on the way down and got a lift back to the village probably saving 2 hours of skinning along the road- lucked out there!
with Harry Martin
Hidden 2 Mar, 2018 AltLd
JackSewell1997 28 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome day!!! The ice was in great condition :) seemed like we were the first group on it in a long time!! Lead every pitch
with Brodie, Matt K
Awesome day!!! The ice was in great condition :) seemed like we were the first group on it in a long time!! Lead every pitch
with Brodie, Matt K
Poco Loco 28 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt
with Dave B
with Dave B
theplacelives 27 Feb, 2018 2nd
laurence_falconer 27 Feb, 2018 Lead Great route. Night climb. First pitch not fully formed so walked round. 3rd pitch thin so traversed on turf
with Joel Harman
Great route. Night climb. First pitch not fully formed so walked round. 3rd pitch thin so traversed on turf
with Joel Harman
partz 12 Feb, 2017 Lead dnf Just pitch 2 and 4. Pitch 1 was unformed, while pitch 3 was too thin to top out (the mushroom bit) Remaining pitches were fun again, despite windy conditions
Just pitch 2 and 4. Pitch 1 was unformed, while pitch 3 was too thin to top out (the mushroom bit) Remaining pitches were fun again, despite windy conditions
elliptic 7 Feb, 2015 Solo
ADuck 3 Apr, 2013 - Climbed it late last night and bagged first night climb. The climbs still in good form and a lot of fun. Would like to go back for a play around there in the day next time.
Climbed it late last night and bagged first night climb. The climbs still in good form and a lot of fun. Would like to go back for a play around there in the day next time.
Dave Cundy 1 Apr, 2013 AltLd
with Nikos Peristeras
with Nikos Peristeras
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
chadrads 1 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 Solo
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 -
3kidsandanorton 31 Mar, 2013 Lead
with Steve Newman
with Steve Newman
Nigel R Lewis 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
with Steve Kedward
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
SteveK 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
R_W_M 30 Mar, 2013 2nd rpt Clear blue skies perfect ice
Clear blue skies perfect ice
tractorbachcoch 30 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Peter, Teresa
with Peter, Teresa
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jimboandrews. 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd
Poco Loco 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S A quick trip to enjoy the late winter conditions. Only one propper pitch, but it was still good fun. Lucy led the little waterfall at the end.
with lucyh
A quick trip to enjoy the late winter conditions. Only one propper pitch, but it was still good fun. Lucy led the little waterfall at the end.
with lucyh
mattrm 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Took first pitch, up to the bottom of the main pitch. Jules did 3/4 of the main pitch. I climbed the final steep last few meters of the main pitch and then led the rest. Really great climb. Felt like a proper III. First grade III lead.
with Jules Vine
Took first pitch, up to the bottom of the main pitch. Jules did 3/4 of the main pitch. I climbed the final steep last few meters of the main pitch and then led the rest. Really great climb. Felt like a proper III. First grade III lead.
with Jules Vine
lucyh 29 Mar, 2013 - Very enjoyable in the sunshine. I had my first lead on ice on a small pitch at the top. I didnt think I would be doing that at the start of the season!
Very enjoyable in the sunshine. I had my first lead on ice on a small pitch at the top. I didnt think I would be doing that at the start of the season!
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Ice in the south and nearly April, had to be done!
Ice in the south and nearly April, had to be done!
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
gethin_allen 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd Soloed up to the main falls then lead the this bit. Really enjoyed placing a few screws on lead
Soloed up to the main falls then lead the this bit. Really enjoyed placing a few screws on lead
gripped01 28 Mar, 2013 Solo
Ander 28 Mar, 2013 Lead Night time climb. Ice quality improved as we got higher.
Night time climb. Ice quality improved as we got higher.
spearing05 26 Mar, 2013 AltLd rpt And again . . .
And again . . .
Hidden 26 Mar, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt
spearing05 13 Mar, 2013 2nd rpt AF lead main pitch, top step made up of delicate chandeliers with no decent ice so bypassed on the right. Solo'd final short pitch (with encouragement)
AF lead main pitch, top step made up of delicate chandeliers with no decent ice so bypassed on the right. Solo'd final short pitch (with encouragement)
deano 2 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt
with Ryan stokes
with Ryan stokes
Pete Rigby 28 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Still running behind the ice in the middle and top of the main pitch is delicate but climbable. Should be good this weekend
with Dave O'Brien
Still running behind the ice in the middle and top of the main pitch is delicate but climbable. Should be good this weekend
with Dave O'Brien
Hidden 25 Feb, 2013 AltLd
MorganPreece 25 Feb, 2013 Lead
Hidden 26 Jan, 2013 TR rpt
steve.warrington 26 Jan, 2013 TR More of a waterfall than Icefall, 1st and 3rd pitch not at all frozen, 2nd pitch just about climbable if your prepaired to get VERY wet
More of a waterfall than Icefall, 1st and 3rd pitch not at all frozen, 2nd pitch just about climbable if your prepaired to get VERY wet
Webster 25 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt
Marti999 25 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S in good nic, looked like there was more ice than earlier in the week. Nice to climb some ice so far south.
in good nic, looked like there was more ice than earlier in the week. Nice to climb some ice so far south.
bonoid 25 Jan, 2013 2nd
Ccmilree 25 Jan, 2013 2nd
Sean Martin 25 Jan, 2013 AltLd RP Third time out Ice climbing and first lead on second pitch which looked the longest to me :-)
Third time out Ice climbing and first lead on second pitch which looked the longest to me :-)
leo-z-g 25 Jan, 2013 2nd dog
with Webster
with Webster
gingernick 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd Led tuff pitch
with Dean Jones
Led tuff pitch
with Dean Jones
R_W_M 24 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt Started route ~6pm clearly been busy during the day but ice solid and in good nick. a couple of sections were visibly re-forming in the cold while we were there. Clear skies, climbed by moonlight, thoroughly awesome.
with Laurence
Started route ~6pm clearly been busy during the day but ice solid and in good nick. a couple of sections were visibly re-forming in the cold while we were there. Clear skies, climbed by moonlight, thoroughly awesome.
with Laurence
stevez 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd pitches with Rob doing the main pitch. Ice fairly hollow in places but generally nice solid ice. Super route with a nice crux at the end of the main pitch.
Led 1st and 3rd pitches with Rob doing the main pitch. Ice fairly hollow in places but generally nice solid ice. Super route with a nice crux at the end of the main pitch.
Hidden 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd rpt
zcsharp 24 Jan, 2013 Solo O/S
nickwhimster 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Moonlight ascent
with Tim
Moonlight ascent
with Tim
Hidden 24 Jan, 2013 2nd
justaddpowder 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd Soloed last bit
with Leo, Ccmilree
Soloed last bit
with Leo, Ccmilree
BALD EAGLE 24 Jan, 2013 2nd
with Richard Nicholson, Joe Bone
with Richard Nicholson, Joe Bone
TDSvejstrup 24 Jan, 2013 Solo O/S
Slick 24 Jan, 2013 Lead Busy but good cascades and main pitch fun!
with Joe Bone, BALD EAGLE
Busy but good cascades and main pitch fun!
with Joe Bone, BALD EAGLE
alastairbegley 24 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/unplanned-trip-torpantau
with Zack
http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/unplanned-trip-torpantau
with Zack
laurence_falconer 24 Jan, 2013 2nd Brilliant climb, Set off from Bristol at 1 pm and start climbing at around 6. In good condition and was my first full ice route! Excelent!
with R_W_M
Brilliant climb, Set off from Bristol at 1 pm and start climbing at around 6. In good condition and was my first full ice route! Excelent!
with R_W_M
Tim Sparrow 24 Jan, 2013 - Started about 8pm. Moonlight + torch - great to be out.
Started about 8pm. Moonlight + torch - great to be out.
partz 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome route with a finish that can catch you off guard. Had a mental epic trying to get home, but made it out!
Awesome route with a finish that can catch you off guard. Had a mental epic trying to get home, but made it out!
Hidden 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
timjones 22 Jan, 2013 2nd
with Neil McLean
with Neil McLean
Alex Wade 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
with partz
with partz
deano 22 Jan, 2013 Solo very hard, brittle ice towards top pitch
very hard, brittle ice towards top pitch
spearing05 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd dog Solo'd the small steps up to the main pitch. Onsight lead of main pitch but took my first lead fall just as about to pull over the top. Bounced down to step below before stopping just as rope started to come tight on last bit of gear. Didnt have the balls to face the thin/hollow ice on the left again so traversed across and went up the steep ground on the right (which turned out to be harder) Seconded top pitch.
Solo'd the small steps up to the main pitch. Onsight lead of main pitch but took my first lead fall just as about to pull over the top. Bounced down to step below before stopping just as rope started to come tight on last bit of gear. Didnt have the balls to face the thin/hollow ice on the left again so traversed across and went up the steep ground on the right (which turned out to be harder) Seconded top pitch.
Jo sumner 20 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 20 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/ice-climbing-torpantau-falls
http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/ice-climbing-torpantau-falls
steve-grigg ??, 2013 Lead rpt
MorganPreece 9 Feb, 2012 - Great Morning out! so good! ice was poor in sections but all was good! :D 4 in the morning start was worth it! :D
with Lee Coiler, Matt Smith, Emma Cordani, spineless
Great Morning out! so good! ice was poor in sections but all was good! :D 4 in the morning start was worth it! :D
with Lee Coiler, Matt Smith, Emma Cordani, spineless
Hidden 9 Feb, 2012 -
Hidden 8 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
alexei.nicholas 5 Feb, 2012 2nd First ice climb, great fun! Awesome harder move about half way up!
with James91
First ice climb, great fun! Awesome harder move about half way up!
with James91
Hidden 5 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 4 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 4 Feb, 2012 2nd 1st proper ice, loved it
with Webster
1st proper ice, loved it
with Webster
Webster 4 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S first water ice lead in the uk! hidden gem!
first water ice lead in the uk! hidden gem!
richsmithinbristol 4 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
gripped01 4 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S
timjones 4 Feb, 2012 -
Hidden 3 Feb, 2012 2nd
gingernick ?Dec, 2011 Lead
with Dean Jones
with Dean Jones
john heaton 31 Jan, 2011 Lead Good fun route, had it to our selves, top bit of main pitch bit sketchy and not really there had to carry rope and rack back on my own as tim dumped gear and legged it to sign on.
with Tim Adams
Good fun route, had it to our selves, top bit of main pitch bit sketchy and not really there had to carry rope and rack back on my own as tim dumped gear and legged it to sign on.
with Tim Adams
Ollie B 27 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S melting in places and hollow in others. some plastic ice to be found though. Soloed all but the main pitch
with B.Brewer
melting in places and hollow in others. some plastic ice to be found though. Soloed all but the main pitch
with B.Brewer
andrzej kierzek 25 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S Lead both pitches. Ice at the very top of main pitch was thin and fragile. Did some mixed moves on the left edge of it, next to vertical crack in the rock. Beautiful sunny christmas day.
Lead both pitches. Ice at the very top of main pitch was thin and fragile. Did some mixed moves on the left edge of it, next to vertical crack in the rock. Beautiful sunny christmas day.
Hidden 7 Dec, 2010 Lead
Burty21 7 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S First ice climbing experience, amazing day!
First ice climbing experience, amazing day!
francois 5 Dec, 2010 Lead Top of the main pitch was a bit sketchy as there was a massive piece of ice seemingly levitating and ready to come off. Conditions should improve though with the cold weather forecast for this week
with Mike K
Top of the main pitch was a bit sketchy as there was a massive piece of ice seemingly levitating and ready to come off. Conditions should improve though with the cold weather forecast for this week
with Mike K
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
ISavage 4 Dec, 2010 2nd Great Climb, good ice.
Great Climb, good ice.
deano 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd rpt
with ryan stokes, martin lewis
with ryan stokes, martin lewis
JFCunningham 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 3 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
aged_ape 3 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Caspian
with Caspian
Andy White 1 Dec, 2010 2nd rpt
with Kevin Evans
with Kevin Evans
sasmojo 13 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S Climbed this in perfect blue sky conditions, it was a bit wet at the bottom, but had good consolidated ice on the main wall of climbing. The top sector had an ice fan and had become quite steep (steeper than grade 3) on the right, so we took this line. :0) A great little climb.
with Daniel B
Climbed this in perfect blue sky conditions, it was a bit wet at the bottom, but had good consolidated ice on the main wall of climbing. The top sector had an ice fan and had become quite steep (steeper than grade 3) on the right, so we took this line. :0) A great little climb.
with Daniel B
Bristoldave 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
with rob wm
with rob wm
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
R_W_M 9 Jan, 2010 2nd
Sarah Black 8 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Joyce
with Mark Joyce
timjones 7 Jan, 2010 Lead
with Wayne Penzer
with Wayne Penzer
timjones 8 Feb, 2009 Lead Main pitch only, but what a great trip. It snowed all the way making for a tough walk in and out.!
with Phil Lewis
Main pitch only, but what a great trip. It snowed all the way making for a tough walk in and out.!
with Phil Lewis
daviesp2 10 Jan, 2009 2nd
timjones 10 Jan, 2009 Lead
with Joe Mclean
with Joe Mclean
freemanTom 10 Jan, 2009 AltLd led little pitch after Coups led main pitch. Awesome day out, started with inversion, ice route and good slog round the mountains.
with Coups. Paul and Rich
led little pitch after Coups led main pitch. Awesome day out, started with inversion, ice route and good slog round the mountains.
with Coups. Paul and Rich
iksander 10 Jan, 2009 AltLd First time on (outside) ice, so up and down several times, including improbable icicles to the right of the main falls. Footing broke and fell on an ice screw, which actually held!
with Jason and Rog
First time on (outside) ice, so up and down several times, including improbable icicles to the right of the main falls. Footing broke and fell on an ice screw, which actually held!
with Jason and Rog
Hidden 9 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
Cardi 9 Jan, 2009 AltLd rpt At night - Full moon!
with Ryan
At night - Full moon!
with Ryan
tombeasley 7 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
eagleopus 4 Jan, 2009 Lead rpt
with Gareth & Paul
with Gareth & Paul
simonw1 4 Jan, 2009 AltLd
with Ralph and Gavin
with Ralph and Gavin
gareth r 4 Jan, 2009 -
with Hywel & Paul
with Hywel & Paul
deano 3 Jan, 2009 Solo Top section seemed harder than before
Top section seemed harder than before
timjones 3 Jan, 2009 -
Gareth T 3 Jan, 2009 TR
with Mike Ellis
with Mike Ellis
Andy White 3 Jan, 2009 2nd O/S
with Kevin Evans
with Kevin Evans
Stone Muppet 3 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with jg
with jg
Cardi 3 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S Seconded top pitch with another party as Pete had cold hands. South Wales winter action at last!!!
with Pete D
Seconded top pitch with another party as Pete had cold hands. South Wales winter action at last!!!
with Pete D
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
ross duffield 1 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S Final little step very thin. great climb descent in dark.
with row
Final little step very thin. great climb descent in dark.
with row
cjohn62 ?Jan, 2009 Lead
with andy
with andy
philhilo ?Jan, 2009 Solo dnf On own at night. Fantastic route but traversed off half way up main pitch. Too bold and dinner plating so didnt fancy night at the bottom with broken legs. Completed upper pitches. Will come back for this one.
On own at night. Fantastic route but traversed off half way up main pitch. Too bold and dinner plating so didnt fancy night at the bottom with broken legs. Completed upper pitches. Will come back for this one.
deano 29 Dec, 2008 2nd Tunel fell and fractured his ankle
with tunnel morgan
Tunel fell and fractured his ankle
with tunnel morgan
Mark Salter ?Dec, 2008 -
with David Bingham
with David Bingham
deano 23 Dec, 2007 Solo
with tunnel morgan
with tunnel morgan
gareth r 22 Dec, 2007 Lead Poor ice due to thaw.
Poor ice due to thaw.
monkeyjumper ?Dec, 2007 2nd
eagleopus ?Dec, 2007 2nd O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Tim W 24 Feb, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Davidson
with Andrew Davidson
Hidden ?Jan, 2002 Lead
leland stamper 4 Jan, 1982 AltLd O/S chilly in Petes car
with pete crutchley, hugh rawson, Richard Baynes
chilly in Petes car
with pete crutchley, hugh rawson, Richard Baynes
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set