Rockfax Description
A shy classic that features some precarious, technical groove climbing on immaculate rock. Start at the base of the reddish left-slanting rake.
1) 4c, 29m. Follow the reddish rake for a few metres before branching up right to enter the base of a large overhung niche. Climb up the back of the niche and make a trying traverse right to easier ground and block-belays. An awkward pitch.
2) 5c, 20m. Traverse left along the top of the overhung niche past a back streak and pull into a slim groove. Climb the technical groove past a peg to a ledge and than make more hard moves left and up another groove to a belay ledge.
3) 5c, 20m. From the left-hand end of the belay ledge climb leftwards with difficulty to easier-angled ground and finish up cracks and grooves. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

David Staples 12/Sep AltLd dog

Last two pitches in the rain! A fun experience

Alison Cairns 13/Jul 2nd β

I led p1 - surprisingly good in its own right at hvs 5a - then seconded p2&3. Both sustained thin technical & tenuous with barely adequate protection. Hard for e2.

with Alice T
burto 02/Jul AltLd
with rowena, hertha
Alice Thompson ?/Jul Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 25/Jun Lead O/S

Finished up Suicide wall will come back for the last pitch!

James S 11/Jun Lead O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Pretty spooky in the groove but ultimately a fairly safe fall zone as long as you fiddle something in. More brilliant climbing from Bosigran!

with geoff
beni 11/Jun Lead
with Wojtek
masa-alpin 18/May AltLd G/U

I lead P1, and Diego did P2+3. In seonding I took the Suicide Wall way because I thought that was how Diego had climbed (I was wrong). In that sense, it wasn't a full tick (again!). During the BMC International Meet 2017.

with Diego Dellai
Lenny 14/May AltLd O/S

1 & 3

with Vasileios Koutoupis
FlavioL1989 17/Apr AltLd O/S
JenShelley 17/Apr AltLd rpt
The Grist 12/Apr AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. Second pitch would be a spicy lead. Very run out.

Hidden ??/2017 2nd
alanblyth 01/Nov/16 2nd dnf

Pitch 2 proved too stiffer challenge this time.

JenShelley 01/Nov/16 Lead dnf
with Alan
Hidden 31/Oct/16 AltLd
Marti999 24/Aug/16 AltLd
with Vic
Luxulyan 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
tim.fairhall 17/Aug/16 AltLd dog

Led P2; 1 fall on crux. Microwires essential (no peg)

with Richard
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd dog
eel 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

To the second groove!

with Anna
James Oswald 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead p2 and p3. We escaped up the HVS for the final pitch because it was getting dark. P2 felt committing and scary. Good route

benkelsey 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P2 precarious and poor gear. Summer is great though as even team slow can start this at 20:15 and (nearly make it out before dark) good lead again James

OliverRoss 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with David Jung
Hidden 10/Jun/16 2nd O/S
switch 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Dave H, Andy S
Hidden 03/May/16 Lead O/S
jonleighton 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Sadie ?/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

I lead the "awkward" first pitch and jon lead the two following pitches. I had to aid climb these as I couldn't do one of the moves on the lower crux of p2, seemed a bit reachy. Thought it was more like 6b move actually! The last pitch was also reachy but there are a lot of short people who have done this so maybe I'm just weak.! Also felt hard in the mid day sun.

soph 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Michaela Tracy
ian d f 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

led p1 & 3

Billg 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
pearson9596 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 16/May/15 Lead
with dan parkes
Ian Jones 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Desperate. 6a at least for the short climber in the first groove and the second. Pitch 3 is poor.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Ian Jones 09/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Drove to the Lizard but conditions nor right. Desperate. Led to the technical crux in the first groove and reversed down feeling quite puzzled. The plan being to return with fresh feet and a fresh head.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Hidden 02/Sep/14 2nd
masa-alpin 23/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Claudia lead P1 up to before the traverse. I took over, then started leading P2. In the end I could not commit to the move above the Suicide Wall P3 ledge (I think I am short of reach to the crucial hold), and escaped to P4 of Suicide Wall, hanging on gear. We took P5 of Suicide Wall to top out almost in the dark.

with Claudia
Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Misha 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Technical and bold. Sue led P1, belaying in the bay, which meant I had to traverse out right and then back left on P2 but it worked out fine with extenders. The groove on P2 was pretty pokey - precarious technical moves above micros. Higher up, the sequence to get off the break shared with Suicide Wall involved a couple of tricky moves but better protected and easier than the Suicide Wall crux next door. I led P3 as well, which was also bold on the crux - good nut well to the side and a couple of fairly hard moves to get established. A good route which requires a good head.

with Sue
Brian H 08/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led p2 - great rock, great route.

alice fuller 08/Jun/14 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P2 - I felt short on it. Need really small wires. Got some encouragement from a kind passing climber.

with max
Macca_7 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route with the middle pitch certainly feeling like the meat of the route! Shame I seconded that one! Lead 1 and 3 which is pretty stiff especially in the damp!

with Stu Bradbury
El3ctroFuzz 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Hot Hot Hot. Pitch 2 took me by surprise! Poor gear in the groove (No Peg?) Big lob potential.

with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
Hidden 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dizz 23/Jun/13 AltLd
with EJ
drysori 17/May/13 AltLd
with Davor
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P2. No peg in groove. Crux protected by small wires.

clipskipper 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed Babington
Hidden 19/Apr/12 2nd
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
pete3685 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

adam cooper*super* 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch! was excellent!

Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gowla 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will kumar
Bobby Gilbert 19/May/11 Lead dnf

Found 2nd pitch very hard and took a long time. Abbed off from Suicide wall belay.

cem 30/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Led p1. Chris decided to finish up Suicide Wall after taking a big lob off p2

drcorbasisgod 30/Apr/11 AltLd
dan gibson 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Dan_Carroll 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

bloody brilliant. first pitch at least 5a, not 4c as in guide.

with Alan
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Alex T (RAFMA) 29/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
with Rimon
Hidden 29/Jul/10 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Did the two 5c pitches as 1 pitch. Harder with rope drag.

with Helen Lancaster
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

first pitch

Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Richard Horn 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
shane54 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very hard and tiring!

Hidden 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Chad123 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, with lots of technical moves to figure out and some fiddly gear to keep you on your toes! Top pitch much easier, more like 5b and only one move? Three stars??

with Jonny M
Matt Bennett 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
jfreeman 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
simonr 08/Jun/08 AltLd
HughM ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with David Barlow
drysori 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led the 5c pitches. Nice climb, a couple of bold moves on both of the hard pitches. The crux is the polished nastiness that is Suicide Wall!

Hidden 10/Jun/07 AltLd dog
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S


Neil Adams 19/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Bez
Rob Kinsey ??/2007 Lead
climber sim ??/2007 -
jfletcher 14/Oct/06 AltLd
Ram MkiV 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

led second 5c pitch - delicate bridging

with Mike Grant
Hidden 02/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/06 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Ash
reg_measures 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
feilx 13/May/06 Lead O/S
with keith
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/05 Lead
lukea 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Al
Mark Stevenson 02/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Calver
pezzerrr 21/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
clark alston ??/2003 AltLd O/S
shoulders 02/Aug/02 Lead
with andy sharp, dai
peterbeaumont ?/Jul/02 Lead
Chris Reid 03/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 03/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Roget 15/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/Jun/00 -
lost.arrow 23/Apr/00 AltLd

Beowulf is physically easier, but mentally harder than Bow wall.

with Paul Palfreyman
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Jun/97 Lead

Pitch 2 felt epic! I have since learnt that there is a hidden wire if you lean out the the right and peek round the corner halfway up the groove! That would have really helped!

with Chris Clarke
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Nick Biven 04/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
with Rich Whitwell
Hidden 21/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/90 AltLd
Campbell42 02/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with Mike Waters
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 30/May/88 AltLd dnf

Started raining so I finished up Suicide Wall's top pitch.

with Keith Marsdon
scree ?/May/88 -
with Dave H
Eduardo Martinez 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
charlesmfrench 20/Apr/84 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
jon ?/May/82 Lead
with paul m
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/81 -
Mike Owen 13/Aug/80 Lead O/S
with Uvet, Elaine Watson
Steve Lewis 04/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Mick
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set