UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

Start as for Wilkinson's Sword to a ledge at 2m. Step right and make hard moves up the slabby face to reach the lower-off shared with that route.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 2 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: That third clip is a bugger without being placed before hand - ie a RP. Very delicate feet on next to nothing. Slopey holds need a dust off as otherwise you are off. The wobbly block undercut is still there 02/08/2021 but should be avoid. I shall return!
Show beta
βeta: That third clip is a bugger without being placed before hand - ie a RP. Very delicate feet on next to nothing. Slopey holds need a dust off as otherwise you are off. The wobbly block undercut is still there 02/08/2021 but should be avoid. I shall return!
Tituscrags Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: got it by third session, thumb catch/undercling is pretty wobbly
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: got it by third session, thumb catch/undercling is pretty wobbly

Logged Ascents

263 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 7b
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
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DNF
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